Art and Nature: A Solo Journey to Naoshima Island

Island Icons and Immersive Art

Today was a day of vibrant colors and quirky encounters as I delved deeper into the artistic soul of Naoshima. It's amazing how this small island manages to pack such a powerful punch, transforming the mundane into something extraordinary. From iconic sculptures to a public bath that doubles as an art installation, Naoshima continues to challenge my perceptions and ignite my imagination.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Cin.na.mon, a charming spot near Miyanoura Port. I opted for their Naoshima curry, a delightful concoction brimming with fresh, local seafood. Fuelled up and ready to explore, I set off to find the island's most famous resident: the Yellow Pumpkin. The walk to the Benesse House area was a treat in itself, with glimpses of the sparkling Seto Inland Sea peeking through the trees. I even managed to not forget to reapply sunscreen, unlike yesterday.

Finally, there it was, perched at the end of a pier, the iconic Yellow Pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama. Its bold polka dots and bulbous form stood in stark contrast to the serene seascape, creating a surreal and captivating scene. It's hard to believe this sculpture was originally intended as a temporary exhibit. It seems so perfectly at home here, embodying the island's ethos of blending art, nature, and architecture. I spent a good while simply admiring it, snapping photos from every angle, and soaking in the atmosphere. The sea breeze was invigorating, and the views were simply breathtaking. It's easy to see why this spot is so popular; there's something truly magical about it. Kusama's pumpkins aren't just art; they're a portal into a whimsical world.


Discover the iconic Yellow Pumpkin in Naoshima, a vibrant sculpture by Yayoi Kusama, blending contemporary art with stunning coastal views.

Art doesn't need to be locked away in galleries to be profound; it can sit by the sea, fade in the rain, glow in the sunset—and still move us, perhaps more than ever.

Of course, no visit to Naoshima is complete without paying homage to its crimson counterpart, the Red Pumpkin. Located near the Miyanoura ferry terminal, this polka-dotted marvel is the first piece of art that greets many visitors to the island. Unlike its yellow sibling, the Red Pumpkin invites you to step inside, offering a unique perspective on the surrounding scenery. I couldn't resist venturing into its hollow interior, where the world outside transformed into a kaleidoscope of shapes and colors through the pumpkin's dotted apertures. It was a playful and disorienting experience, offering a glimpse into Kusama's surreal vision. Apparently, the Red Pumpkin was inaugurated in 2006 and stands four meters high, a welcoming beacon to art lovers arriving by ferry.


Explore the vibrant Red Pumpkin in Naoshima, a masterpiece of contemporary art by Yayoi Kusama, set against stunning coastal views.

For lunch, I ventured to Ebisukamo in Honmura, a seafood restaurant tucked away in a narrow alley. It felt like discovering a hidden gem. I savored a delicious fish set meal featuring the freshest catches of the day. The menu changes daily, showcasing local favorites like Spanish mackerel and sea bream. It was a truly authentic culinary experience, far removed from the touristy spots. The restaurant is vegan-friendly, which is always a plus in my book.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Ebisukamo on Naoshima Island—where local flavors meet serene beauty.

After lunch, I decided to indulge in a uniquely Naoshima experience: a visit to the Naoshima Public Bath I Love Yu. This isn't just any bathhouse; it's an art installation by Shinro Ohtake, where you can literally immerse yourself in art. The exterior is a riot of colors and recycled objects, reflecting Ohtake's scrapbook-like style. Inside, the baths are adorned with mosaics, murals, and even an elephant statue. It's a quirky and unforgettable experience, blending the everyday ritual of bathing with contemporary art. The bathhouse was created to promote cultural exchanges between international visitors and Japanese local residents, and it certainly lived up to that goal.


Experience the unique blend of relaxation and art at Naoshima Public Bath I Love Yu, a must-visit destination for tranquility and cultural immersion.

Before dinner, I popped into the Art Island Center, a gallery and bookshop that serves as a hub for the local art scene. I browsed their collection of art books, stationery, and unique gifts, soaking in the creative atmosphere. It's a great place to discover local artists and learn more about the island's artistic initiatives. I even picked up a small print by a local artist as a memento of my visit. I learned that the Art Island Center was established in 2019 and explores the identity and resilience of the islands of the Setouchi region.


Discover the serene beauty of Art Island Center in Naoshima, where literature meets art in an inspiring setting that captivates every visitor.

As evening approached, I made my way to the Terrace Restaurant at Benesse House for dinner. The restaurant boasts large windows with panoramic views of the Seto Inland Sea, creating a serene and elegant ambiance. I savored a delectable French cuisine, prepared with fresh, local ingredients. The shifting light of the setting sun cast a magical glow over the water, enhancing the dining experience. It was the perfect way to end a day filled with artistic discoveries. The Terrace Restaurant requires advance reservations for dinner, which I made sure to do well in advance. The restaurant focuses on seasonal ingredients, offering innovative dishes rooted in the region's culinary heritage. It was a true feast for the senses. The restaurant is located in the annex of Benesse House on Naoshima Island. I overheard some guests mentioning that the Benesse House also has a lounge in the basement of Benesse House Park, renovated in March 2022 by Hiroshi Sugimoto, where you can enjoy original cocktails on weekends.


Experience fine dining at Terrace Restaurant in Naoshima—where art meets exquisite cuisine amidst breathtaking views.

Looking ahead to tomorrow, I'm excited to explore more of Naoshima's artistic offerings. The itinerary includes visits to the Ando Museum, the Art House Project: Go'o Shrine, and the Miyanoura Gallery 6. I'm also planning to unwind with a drink at BAR Queen's-Q Naoshima in the evening. It's going to be another day of immersion in art and culture, and I can't wait to see what Naoshima has in store for me.

As I reflect on today's adventures, I'm struck by the unique way Naoshima seamlessly blends art and life. It's not just about visiting museums and admiring sculptures; it's about experiencing art in every aspect of daily life, from bathing in a public bath to savoring a delicious meal with a view. This island has a way of opening your eyes to the beauty and creativity that surrounds us, and I'm grateful for the opportunity to be a part of it.

Before drifting off to sleep, I realize I should probably figure out the train and ferry situation to get off the island. It's always a bit of a process to get back to Hamburg from these remote locations, but it's always worth it. I'm already looking forward to sharing more of my Naoshima adventures with you tomorrow.