Exploring the Enchanting Forests of Yakushima

A Day Among Giants

Today was all about connecting with the ancient heart of Yakushima. I set out to hike to Jōmon Sugi, a legendary cedar estimated to be thousands of years old. It was a challenging but deeply rewarding day, filled with moments of awe and quiet reflection amidst the island's stunning natural beauty. The forest here is unlike anything I’ve ever seen, and I’m so glad I decided to make this solo journey.

My day began early, grabbing a quick but satisfying breakfast at Smiley. It's amazing how a simple meal of toast and coffee can energize you when you know you have a long hike ahead. Fuelled up, I made my way towards the trailhead, the air crisp and clean, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth. I always feel a sense of anticipation before a big hike, a mix of excitement and a touch of nervousness, wondering what the trail will throw my way. It reminds me of the hikes I used to take in the Swiss Alps as a child, a world away from my current home in Toronto, yet somehow connected through the universal language of nature.

The trail to Jōmon Sugi is no walk in the park; it's a proper trek, involving several hours of uphill climbing, navigating rocky paths, and crossing small streams. The initial part of the trail follows an old logging railway, which made for relatively easy walking. It was fascinating to see the remnants of this industrial past slowly being reclaimed by nature, the tracks rusting amidst the encroaching greenery. It made me think about the complex relationship between humans and the environment, and the importance of finding a balance between our needs and the preservation of the natural world. I even passed a few other hikers along the way, exchanging nods and smiles, a silent acknowledgment of the shared challenge and the beauty that surrounded us. I find that there is a special comradery among hikers, a common understanding of the transformative power of nature.

As I ventured deeper into the forest, the landscape transformed into a magical realm of ancient cedars, moss-covered rocks, and gnarled tree roots. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating ethereal patterns on the forest floor. It felt like stepping into a scene from a fairy tale, a place where time stood still and the spirits of the forest whispered secrets to those who listened. I couldn't help but think of Sophie, my daughter, and how much she would have loved this enchanted forest. I made a mental note to bring her here someday, to share this incredible experience with her. David, my husband, would also appreciate the sheer magnitude of these trees; his architectural eye would find beauty in their intricate structures.

Nature is not a place to visit. It is home.

After several hours of hiking, I finally reached Jōmon Sugi. The sight of this ancient cedar was truly awe-inspiring. Standing before it, I felt an overwhelming sense of humility and respect. It's hard to fathom the age of this tree, estimated to be anywhere from 2,000 to 7,200 years old. It has stood here for millennia, witnessing the rise and fall of civilizations, enduring countless storms and natural disasters. It's a living testament to the power and resilience of nature. I spent a long time simply gazing at it, absorbing its energy and feeling a deep connection to the earth. I thought about my own life, my own struggles and triumphs, and how insignificant they seemed in the face of this ancient giant. It was a humbling and grounding experience.


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The observation deck built around Jōmon Sugi provided a perfect vantage point to admire its massive trunk and sprawling branches. The sheer size of the tree is hard to capture in a photograph; it's something you have to experience in person to truly appreciate. I took a few pictures, of course, but I knew that no image could ever do justice to the reality. The air was still and quiet, broken only by the occasional chirping of birds and the rustling of leaves. I closed my eyes for a moment, took a deep breath, and savoured the peace and tranquility of this sacred place.

The descent from Jōmon Sugi was just as challenging as the ascent, but I felt invigorated by the experience. My legs were tired, but my spirit was soaring. As I made my way back down the trail, I reflected on the lessons I had learned from the ancient cedar. It had taught me the importance of patience, resilience, and humility. It had reminded me that I am a part of something much larger than myself, and that I have a responsibility to protect the natural world for future generations.

Before embarking on the trek to Jōmon Sugi, I dedicated the morning to exploring Yokogawa Valley. The valley is known for its pristine rivers, lush greenery, and serene atmosphere. It’s a place where you can truly escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life and immerse yourself in the beauty of nature. After the intensity of the Jōmon Sugi hike, the gentle embrace of Yokogawa Valley was exactly what I needed. I had a delightful lunch at Matsutake, a local spot known for its traditional Japanese cuisine. It was the perfect opportunity to refuel and savour the flavours of Yakushima. I opted for a bento box filled with local delicacies, including fresh seafood, mountain vegetables, and fragrant rice. The meal was simple but delicious, a testament to the quality of the ingredients and the skill of the chef.


Explore the serene beauty of Yokogawa Valley in Yakushima, a UNESCO World Heritage site surrounded by lush forests and unique wildlife.

Yokogawa Valley is a symphony of emerald green streams, moss-covered rocks, and the gentle murmur of water. The area is particularly famous for its stunning landscapes, which include lush forests, cascading waterfalls, and serene riverbanks, making it a perfect retreat for nature enthusiasts and photographers alike. I spent a couple of hours wandering along the riverbank, taking in the sights and sounds of the valley. The water was crystal clear, and I could see small fish darting among the rocks. The air was filled with the scent of damp earth and the sweet fragrance of wildflowers. It was a truly sensory experience, a feast for the eyes, ears, and nose.

I found a secluded spot by the river and sat down to meditate. I closed my eyes, took a deep breath, and focused on the sound of the water. It was a soothing and calming sound, washing away the stresses and anxieties of the day. I felt a deep sense of peace and connection to the natural world. It was a reminder that I am a part of something much larger than myself, and that I am surrounded by beauty and abundance.

As the day drew to a close, I treated myself to some delicious gelato at Yakushima Gelato Sora-Umi. It was the perfect way to end a day of hiking and exploring. The gelato was made with local ingredients, and the flavours were unique and refreshing. I sat outside the shop, savouring the sweet treat and watching the sun set over the ocean. It was a perfect moment, a reminder of the simple pleasures in life.


Experience the sweet flavors of Yakushima Gelato Sora-Umi, where artisanal gelato meets the island's breathtaking beauty and warm hospitality.

For dinner, I decided to try Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, known for its artistic presentation and use of local ingredients. The meal was a culinary masterpiece, each dish beautifully plated and bursting with flavour. It was a fitting end to a day filled with beauty, wonder, and connection to the natural world. As I walked back to my guesthouse, I felt grateful for the opportunity to experience the magic of Yakushima. It’s a place that has touched my heart and soul, and I know I will carry its memory with me always. I’m already looking forward to tomorrow, when I plan to visit the Yakushima-todai Lighthouse and relax at the Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen. I’m sure it will be another day filled with adventure and discovery.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, where local flavors meet traditional techniques in an unforgettable dining experience.

Back at my guesthouse, I reflected on the day's adventures. The hike to Jōmon Sugi was undoubtedly the highlight, a challenging but deeply rewarding experience. But the serenity of Yokogawa Valley and the delicious local cuisine also contributed to a perfect day. Yakushima has a way of captivating the soul, offering a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural richness, and spiritual connection. It's a place I know I'll return to someday, perhaps with David and Sophie, to share its magic with them. For now, I'll cherish the memories and lessons learned, carrying the whispers of the ancient cedars in my heart.