Exploring the Enchantment of Yakushima with Friends

Echoes of Primeval Forests

Today was nothing short of magical. Immersed in the heart of Yakushima, I felt a profound connection to nature, a sense of timelessness that only ancient forests can evoke. The air was thick with moisture, carrying the scent of cedar and moss, as we ventured into a world untouched by time. It was a day of challenging hikes, breathtaking vistas, and quiet contemplation amidst the grandeur of ancient trees.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Aqua Cafe. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, savoring the delicate flavors of grilled fish, miso soup, and pickled vegetables. It was the perfect fuel for the day's adventures ahead. Fortified, we set off towards Shiratani Unsui Gorge.


Explore the lush beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a scenic gem in Yakushima, featuring ancient cedar forests and stunning hiking trails.
The Shiratani Unsui Gorge is like stepping into a fairy tale. It's easy to see why it’s said that this forest inspired Miyazaki's *Princess Mononoke*. The moss-covered rocks and ancient cedar trees create an ethereal atmosphere. Sunlight filters through the canopy, casting dappled shadows on the forest floor. The trails wind along crystal-clear streams, their gentle murmur adding to the tranquility of the place.

We chose one of the trails that led us deeper into the gorge, aiming for the iconic Taiko-iwa Rock. The hike was invigorating, with a few challenging ascents that had my heart pumping. I was glad I had my hiking boots, as the ground was slippery in places due to the constant moisture. The air was so fresh and clean; it felt like a balm to my city-weary lungs.

As we climbed higher, the views became increasingly spectacular. Finally, we reached Taiko-iwa Rock, a massive boulder perched precariously on the edge of a cliff. The panoramic vista was simply breathtaking. From our vantage point, we could see the rolling green mountains stretching out towards the horizon, shrouded in mist. It was a moment of pure awe, a reminder of the raw beauty and power of nature.

In the heart of the forest, time ceases to exist, and only the whispers of the ancient trees remain.

After soaking in the views and snapping a few photos, we descended back into the gorge. The forest seemed even more enchanting on the way down, the play of light and shadow creating a mesmerizing effect. We took our time, savoring every moment, every rustle of leaves, every birdsong.

Next on our itinerary was the legendary Jōmon Sugi, a cedar estimated to be thousands of years old. Reaching Jōmon Sugi is no easy feat; it requires a considerable hike deep into the island's interior. We opted for the Arakawa Trail, the most common route, which is about 22 kilometers round trip.


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The first part of the trail follows an old railway track used during the island's logging days. It was fascinating to imagine the bustling activity that once took place here, now replaced by the quiet serenity of the forest. The path was relatively flat, making for easy walking, but the distance was still a test of endurance.

As we ventured deeper, the landscape transformed. The railway track gave way to a more traditional mountain trail, winding through dense forest and across rocky streams. The ascent became steeper, and the air grew thinner. We passed towering cedar trees, their gnarled roots clinging to the earth, their massive trunks reaching for the sky. It was humbling to be in the presence of such ancient beings.

The trail was dotted with smaller cedar trees, each with its unique character and charm. Some were adorned with vibrant green moss, others with delicate ferns. Every turn revealed a new vista, a new perspective on the forest's intricate beauty. I was particularly fascinated by the 'Love' tree hole, shaped like a heart when viewed from below.

Along the way, we encountered fellow hikers, their faces flushed with exertion, their eyes shining with excitement. There was a sense of camaraderie among us, a shared appreciation for the natural wonders that surrounded us. We exchanged smiles and words of encouragement, united by our common goal.

Finally, after hours of hiking, we reached Jōmon Sugi. The sight of this ancient cedar was truly awe-inspiring. Standing at 25 meters tall, its presence commanded respect and reverence. Despite the viewing platforms being a little distant, its sheer size and age were palpable. It's incredible to think that this tree has stood here for millennia, witnessing the ebb and flow of time, the changing seasons, the rise and fall of civilizations.

We spent some time simply gazing at Jōmon Sugi, absorbing its energy, feeling its connection to the earth. It was a moment of profound stillness, a chance to reflect on our place in the grand scheme of things. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for being able to experience such a magnificent natural wonder.

The descent was just as challenging as the ascent, but the thought of a delicious meal kept us going. We made our way back along the Arakawa Trail, retracing our steps, savoring the last glimpses of the forest. By the time we reached the trailhead, we were exhausted but exhilarated.

Before dinner, we stopped by Yakushima Market. It was bustling with locals and tourists alike, browsing the various stalls selling local produce, handicrafts, and souvenirs. I picked up a few small gifts for Liam and my family, wanting to share a piece of Yakushima's magic with them. There was so much to see: Yaku cedar products, fresh tangerines, local sweets. I even saw a stall for the Yakushima Organic Market!


Discover the vibrant Yakushima Market, where local crafts and fresh produce come together for an authentic shopping experience.
For dinner, we treated ourselves to a well-deserved feast at Il Mare. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, with a menu featuring fresh seafood and local ingredients. I ordered the grilled fish set, and it was absolutely divine. The fish was perfectly cooked, flaky and moist, with a delicate smoky flavor. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day.


Discover Il Mare in Yakushima for an unforgettable Italian dining experience amidst stunning natural beauty.
As I sit here now, writing this entry, my body aches, but my heart is full. Today was a day of adventure, discovery, and connection. I feel incredibly fortunate to have had the opportunity to explore Yakushima's ancient forests and to witness the majesty of Jōmon Sugi. It's an experience that I will cherish forever.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Senpiro Falls and Yokogawa Valley. I'm excited to see more of Yakushima's natural beauty and to continue our exploration of this enchanting island. We'll start the day with breakfast at Smiley, and I'm already looking forward to it!

Good night from Yakushima! I can't wait to see what adventures tomorrow brings.