Exploring the Enchantment of Yakushima with Friends

Echoes of Ancient Cedars

Today was a day of immersion into the heart of Yakushima, a day where the ancient forests whispered their stories and the island's spirit embraced us. It was a journey of discovery, not just of the landscape, but of the deep connection between nature and time. With my friends, I set out to explore Yakusugi Land and meet the venerable Daio Sugi, eager to experience the magic that these ancient giants hold.


Explore Yakusugi Land: a UNESCO World Heritage nature preserve in Yakushima known for its ancient cedar trees and stunning hiking trails.

The day began with a hearty breakfast at Michikusa. I decided on the traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, and perfectly steamed rice. It's always fascinating to try new things, and I find that starting the day with a savory meal really sets the tone for adventure. Fueled up and ready, we made our way towards Yakusugi Land.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Michikusa in Yakushima, where local flavors meet exquisite dining in a charming atmosphere.

The drive itself was an experience. The roads wound and twisted, climbing higher into the mountains, with lush greenery on either side. The air grew cooler and crisper, carrying the scent of cedar and damp earth. It was a sensory feast that heightened our anticipation. As we ascended, I couldn't help but feel grateful for Liam's careful planning – even though he couldn't be here with me, his meticulous nature always ensures we're well-prepared, even in spirit. He would have loved this drive, I know it. He always appreciates the precision of good engineering, and these roads were certainly a testament to thoughtful design.

Arriving at Yakusugi Land, we paid the entrance fee and chose our trail. There were options for all levels, from a short 30-minute stroll to a more challenging 3-hour trek. We opted for a moderate route, eager to delve deeper into the forest without overexerting ourselves. As someone who enjoys a good hike in the Wicklow Mountains back in Ireland, I was curious to see how these ancient Japanese forests would compare.

The moment we stepped onto the trail, we were enveloped in a world of green. Towering Yakusugi cedars, many over a thousand years old, stood like silent sentinels, their gnarled branches reaching towards the sky. The forest floor was a carpet of moss, soft and springy underfoot, with streams trickling through the undergrowth. The sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting dappled shadows that danced across the landscape. It felt like stepping into another realm, a place where time moved differently.

The forest is not a resource for us, it is life itself.

We meandered along the well-maintained paths, crossing wooden walkways and bridges that wound through the dense foliage. The air was thick with humidity, and the sounds of the forest filled our ears – the rustling of leaves, the chirping of birds, the gentle murmur of the streams. It was a symphony of nature that soothed the soul. I found myself falling into a meditative state, simply being present in the moment, breathing in the ancient air, and marveling at the sheer resilience of these trees.

One of the highlights of Yakusugi Land was the chance to see the second-generation cedars regrowing over the cut down trees. It was a powerful reminder of the forest's ability to regenerate, even after centuries of logging. These cedars, with their new life sprouting from the old, symbolized hope and resilience. It was a beautiful metaphor for life itself, reminding me of the constant cycle of renewal and growth.

After spending a few hours exploring Yakusugi Land, we set off to find Daio Sugi, the Great King Cedar. This ancient tree, estimated to be around three thousand years old, was once considered the largest on the island. Though no longer in its prime, Daio Sugi still commands respect and awe.


Discover the ancient beauty of Daio Sugi, a remarkable nature preserve in Yakushima, showcasing towering cedar trees and rich biodiversity.

The trail to Daio Sugi was an extension of the Okabu Trail, accessible from the Arakawa Trail Entrance. The path was a bit more challenging than those in Yakusugi Land, but the anticipation of seeing this ancient giant kept us going. Along the way, we encountered several Yakushima deer, their gentle eyes watching us from the shadows. These creatures, unique to the island, added to the sense of wonder and enchantment. I remembered packing insect repellent, only to realize I’d left it back at our campsite. Note to self: always double-check the essentials!

Finally, we reached Daio Sugi, and I was immediately struck by its sheer size and presence. Standing at 24.7 meters tall with a circumference of 11.1 meters, it was a truly magnificent sight. Although parts of its hollow were visible, its ancient spirit was palpable. I could almost feel the weight of centuries in its presence, the stories it had witnessed, the wisdom it held. It was humbling to stand before such a venerable being, a living testament to the power and longevity of nature.

Unlike the Jomon Sugi, which can only be viewed from an observatory, we were able to approach Daio Sugi up close. This allowed us to truly appreciate its intricate bark, the patterns etched by time and weather, the delicate mosses and ferns that clung to its surface. It was a tactile experience, a chance to connect with the tree on a deeper level. I ran my hand along its rough bark, feeling the texture of history beneath my fingertips. It was a moment of profound connection, a reminder of our place within the larger web of life.

After paying our respects to Daio Sugi, we began our descent, our hearts full of reverence and awe. The forest seemed to glow in the late afternoon light, casting a golden hue on everything it touched. We walked in silence, each of us lost in our own thoughts, processing the experiences of the day. It was a shared moment of peace and reflection, a reminder of the importance of connecting with nature and appreciating the ancient wisdom it holds.

As evening approached, our stomachs began to rumble, reminding us that it was time for dinner. We decided to try Subarashi Indian Restaurant, a local favorite known for its authentic Indian and Nepalese cuisine. It might seem strange to eat Indian food in Japan, but I'd read rave reviews and was eager to try something different.


Discover authentic Indian flavors at Subarashi Indian Restaurant in Yakushima, where tradition meets local charm.

The restaurant was cozy and inviting, with a warm and welcoming atmosphere. The owner, Bidhan, greeted us with a friendly smile, speaking fluent Japanese and English. As a vegan, I was pleased to find a variety of vegetarian curries that could be made vegan by omitting butter and ghee. I ordered an eggplant curry, specifying no dairy, and it was absolutely delicious. The spices were fragrant and flavorful, and the vegetables were perfectly cooked. It was a comforting and satisfying meal that warmed us from the inside out.

My friends tried a variety of dishes, including momos (Nepalese dumplings) and tandoori set. They raved about the naan, which was crispy on the bottom and not too oily. Everyone agreed that it was one of the best Indian meals they had ever had, a testament to the skill and passion of the chef.

After dinner, we decided to unwind at Fisherman's Bar NINA, a local spot known for its fresh seafood and lively atmosphere. Though seafood isn't usually my thing, I was drawn to the bar's reputation and wanted to experience the local culture. The bar was bustling with locals and tourists, all enjoying the evening air and sharing stories. I ordered a local beer and struck up a conversation with a friendly fisherman who told me about his life on the island. It was a wonderful way to end the day, surrounded by the warmth and hospitality of the Yakushima people.


Experience the freshest seafood in Yakushima at Fisherman's Bar NINA, where culinary excellence meets stunning ocean views.

Before heading back to our campsite, we took a moment to gaze at the stars. The night sky in Yakushima is incredibly clear, far from the light pollution of the city. The stars twinkled like diamonds, and the Milky Way stretched across the heavens like a river of light. It was a breathtaking sight, a reminder of the vastness and beauty of the universe. As I drifted off to sleep, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the experiences of the day. Yakushima had once again exceeded my expectations, offering a perfect blend of natural beauty, cultural immersion, and spiritual connection. I couldn’t wait to see what tomorrow would bring – Wilson's Stump and Yakushima National Park were calling our names!

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Wilson's Stump and explore more of Yakushima National Park. I'm particularly excited about seeing Wilson's Stump, as I've heard it resembles a heart when viewed from the inside. It seems like a fitting symbol for this island, which has captured my heart in so many ways. Before heading out, we'll grab breakfast at Yakushima Airport Restaurant. And, if time allows, I'm hoping we can squeeze in a visit to YAKUSHIMA BLESS to pick up some souvenirs.

The weather forecast for tomorrow looks promising, with mostly sunny skies and mild temperatures. I'm packing my hiking boots and rain jacket, just in case. With any luck, we'll have another day filled with adventure and discovery. Yakushima, you continue to amaze me.