Exploring the Enchantment of Yakushima with Friends

Echoes in the Stump

Today, Yakushima revealed more of its ancient soul to me. It wasn't just about seeing the sights, but feeling the echoes of centuries past, breathing in the same air as trees that have stood for millennia. It was a day of deep connection with nature, a reminder of the earth's enduring strength and beauty.

Our day began, as many do here, with a hearty breakfast at the Yakushima Airport Restaurant. It's funny how airports, usually symbols of rushing and departure, can offer such a grounding start here. Fuelled up, we were ready to explore the wonders that awaited us in Yakushima National Park.

First on our itinerary was Wilson's Stump, and the journey there was an experience in itself. The trail wound through the forest, sunlight dappling through the canopy, illuminating the vibrant green moss that blankets everything. It felt like stepping into another world, one where time moves differently, where the air hums with a quiet energy. Even though I had forgotten my insect repellent, the beauty around me was enough to distract me from the occasional bites. I made a mental note to remind Liam to pack it next time; he's always so organized.

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.

As we approached Wilson's Stump, I was struck by its sheer size. It's hard to fathom that this was once a living tree, thousands of years old. Now, a massive hollow remains, a testament to time and the elements. Inside, a small shrine stood nestled within the stump's cavernous space, a place of reverence and reflection. Looking up, I saw the famous heart-shaped hole in the canopy above, a perfect frame for the sky. It’s a view that etches itself into your memory, a reminder of nature's artistry.


Explore the breathtaking Wilson's Stump in Yakushima, a natural wonder showcasing the island's rich biodiversity and stunning landscapes.

The history of Wilson's Stump is fascinating. It was named after the British botanist Ernest Henry Wilson, who documented it in the early 20th century. But the tree itself was felled centuries earlier, likely in the 16th century, under the orders of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, a powerful warlord who used Yakushima's cedar for building temples. It's a poignant reminder of the complex relationship between humans and nature, of the impact we can have on even the most ancient of beings. According to what I read, the tree may have been cut down around 400 years ago for the construction of Hokoji Temple in Kyoto.

Spending time at Wilson's Stump felt like a pilgrimage, a chance to connect with the deep history of this island. I could almost hear the whispers of the past, the echoes of the woodcutters, the rustling of leaves in the ancient forest. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of my own small place in the vast tapestry of time.

After immersing ourselves in the solemn beauty of Wilson's Stump, we continued our exploration of Yakushima National Park. The park itself is a sprawling sanctuary of biodiversity, home to ancient cedar forests, lush vegetation, and unique wildlife. The Yakushima macaque and Yaku deer roam freely here, adding to the island's enchanting atmosphere. We didn't spot any macaques today, but the thought of them watching us from the shadows added to the mystical feel of the forest.


Explore the ancient forests and breathtaking landscapes of Yakushima National Park, a jewel of Japan's natural heritage and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The trails within the park are a delight to hike, winding through moss-covered boulders and dense foliage. The air is thick with the scent of cedar and damp earth, and the sounds of the forest – the rustling of leaves, the chirping of birds, the gentle murmur of streams – create a symphony of nature. It’s the kind of place where you can truly lose yourself, not in the sense of getting lost (though I did check the map more than once!), but in the sense of forgetting the outside world and connecting with something deeper.

As the day wore on, we made our way to Anbo, eager to sample some of Yakushima's local cuisine. Lunch was at Iso no Kaori, a well-regarded sushi and sashimi restaurant. The restaurant had a cozy, authentic feel, with tatami mats for seating. I opted for a selection of local fish, and each piece was incredibly fresh, bursting with flavor. The staff was friendly and explained the different types of fish, even providing picture cards. It's this kind of attention to detail that makes dining here such a pleasure.


Experience authentic Japanese sushi at Iso no Kaori in Yakushima - where fresh ingredients meet culinary artistry.

After lunch, we decided to do some shopping at YAKUSHIMA BLESS. This charming shop offers a variety of local crafts, traditional textiles, and unique souvenirs. I was particularly drawn to the Yakusugi cedar products, each one a testament to the island's natural beauty and the skill of its artisans. I picked up a small wooden carving for my desk back in Dublin, a reminder of this magical place. I also got a Yakushima地杉クリップ.


Explore Yakushima Bless: A vibrant shopping mall showcasing local artistry, traditional crafts, and unique souvenirs from the beautiful island of Yakushima.

For dinner, we chose Shiosai, a restaurant known for its local seafood and produce. The portions were generous, and the food was delicious. I tried the fried flying fish, a local specialty, and it was a revelation. The whole fish can be eaten, from head to tail, and the crispy texture and delicate flavor were simply divine. Liam, ever adventurous, tried the kame no te, a unique crustacean that resembled turtle legs. He described the taste as somewhere between shrimp and baby squid – definitely not something you find in Dublin!


Experience authentic Japanese tempura at Shiosai in Yakushima—where fresh ingredients meet culinary excellence.

As the day drew to a close, I reflected on all that we had experienced. From the ancient majesty of Wilson's Stump to the vibrant flavors of the local cuisine, Yakushima had once again captivated my senses. It's a place that stays with you long after you leave, a reminder of the power and beauty of the natural world.

Tomorrow, we're planning to visit the Yakushima Sea Turtle Hall and Isso Lighthouse. I'm excited to learn more about the island's marine life and to see the coastline from a new perspective. And perhaps, if we're lucky, we'll spot a sea turtle or two.

As I write this, nestled in our cozy campsite, the sounds of the forest lulling me to sleep, I feel a deep sense of gratitude for this journey. Yakushima is more than just a destination; it's an experience, a connection, a reminder of the enduring power of nature.