Solo Adventure in Peneda-Gerês National Park

Whispers of Water and Stone

Today was a day of embracing the raw beauty and rich history nestled within Peneda-Gerês National Park. It’s incredible how much this park offers – from cascading waterfalls to ancient granaries, each corner holds a story waiting to be discovered. I set out early, eager to explore two of the park's gems: the Cascata de Fragas de Pena Má and the Espigueiro de Alecrimes. This solo journey continues to surprise me with moments of quiet reflection and awe-inspiring sights.


Experience the serene beauty of Cascata de Fragas de Pena Má, a stunning waterfall in Salamonde, perfect for nature lovers and adventure seekers.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Restaurante Pedra Bela Gerês. It was the perfect start, fueling up with traditional Portuguese fare before heading out into the wilderness. The restaurant itself had a lovely, welcoming atmosphere, and I enjoyed chatting briefly with the staff about my plans for the day. I opted for a simple yet satisfying meal of fresh bread, local cheese, and strong coffee – a classic combination that always hits the spot.

First on the agenda was the Cascata de Fragas de Pena Má. The drive there was scenic, with winding roads offering glimpses of the lush landscape. As I got closer, I could hear the distant roar of the waterfall, a symphony of nature that grew louder with each turn. Parking the car, I followed a short trail that led me deeper into the forest. The air was thick with the scent of damp earth and pine, and the sunlight filtering through the trees created an ethereal glow.

Reaching the Cascata de Fragas de Pena Má was nothing short of breathtaking. The waterfall plunges dramatically down a rocky cliff face, creating a mesmerizing spectacle of water and light. The cascade is about 80 meters high, and the force of the water is truly impressive. I spent a good while simply standing there, mesmerized by the sheer power and beauty of nature. I even braved the cool spray to get a closer look, feeling the invigorating mist on my face.

Nature always wears the colors of the spirit.

After soaking in the views, I decided to explore the surrounding area. The trail continued past the waterfall, leading to a series of smaller cascades and pools. I took my time, scrambling over rocks and wading through shallow streams, feeling like a true explorer. The park was relatively quiet, and I only encountered a few other hikers along the way. It was a welcome change from the hustle and bustle of Dublin, and I relished the solitude and peace.

Next, I headed to the Espigueiro de Alecrimes. This traditional granary is a testament to the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the local people. Espigueiros are raised structures used to store corn and other grains, protecting them from rodents and moisture. The Espigueiro de Alecrimes is particularly well-preserved, offering a fascinating glimpse into the past.


Explore the Espigueiro de Alecrimes, a captivating granary in Terras de Bouro, showcasing Portugal's rich agricultural heritage amid breathtaking landscapes.

The espigueiro was constructed of stone, with narrow slits allowing for ventilation. Climbing up the stone steps, I peered inside, imagining the granary filled with golden corn, ready to sustain the community through the winter months. The views from the top were stunning, with panoramic vistas of the surrounding countryside. It was easy to see why this location was chosen – the elevated position offered both protection and a commanding view of the landscape.

For lunch, I stopped at Restaurante Videira. The restaurant had a cozy, rustic charm, and the menu featured a variety of traditional Portuguese dishes. I opted for a hearty stew, packed with vegetables and tender chunks of meat. It was the perfect comfort food after a morning of hiking, and I savored every bite. The service was friendly and efficient, and I enjoyed chatting with the waitress about the local area.

With my stomach full and my spirits high, I decided to spend the afternoon exploring the village of Gerês. I wandered through the narrow streets, admiring the traditional architecture and soaking in the local atmosphere. The village was bustling with activity, with locals going about their daily lives and tourists exploring the shops and cafes.

Before dinner, I decided to unwind at Marina Bar. Situated by the water, it offered stunning views of the surrounding landscape. I ordered a refreshing drink and sat on the terrace, watching the sunset paint the sky in hues of orange and pink. It was the perfect way to end a day of adventure.


Discover the enchanting Marina Bar, where delightful cuisine meets breathtaking river views in the heart of Rio Caldo.

Dinner was at Novas Pontes, where I enjoyed a delicious meal of fresh seafood. The restaurant had a lively, convivial atmosphere, and I struck up a conversation with a couple from Porto who were also visiting the park. We shared stories and travel tips, and I felt a sense of connection and camaraderie.


Experience authentic Portuguese flavors at Novas Pontes in Entre Ambos-os-Rios – where culinary tradition meets warm hospitality.

As I sit here in my tent, the sounds of the park lulling me to sleep, I can't help but reflect on the day's adventures. From the cascading waters of Fragas de Pena Má to the ancient stones of Espigueiro de Alecrimes, every moment was a reminder of the beauty and history that surrounds us. I’m so glad I remembered to buy insect repellent today, as I would be eaten alive otherwise.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore the Cascatas de Fecha de Barjas, also known as the Tahiti Waterfalls, and the Miradouro da Ermida. I’ve heard that the waterfalls are particularly stunning, and I’m eager to see them for myself. Plus, I need to stop by Supermercado Amanhecer Gerês to replenish my supplies – I’m running low on snacks and water. I'm also hoping that the sun will be out, as I forgot to pack sunscreen and don’t want to get burned again.

It’s moments like these that make me appreciate my solo travels. There’s something incredibly liberating about setting your own pace, exploring at your own whim, and simply being present in the moment. I am excited to see what new adventures tomorrow will bring!

Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.