Family Adventure in Cazorla Natural Park

First Impressions of Cazorla

After a long journey from Berlin, involving a flight and a rental car, Lena, Kai and I finally arrived at Parque Natural de las Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas. The drive itself was stunning, with the landscape transforming from rolling hills to dramatic mountain vistas. There was a palpable sense of excitement in the car as we approached our destination, eager to immerse ourselves in the natural beauty that everyone raves about. It’s a far cry from our usual Berlin haunts, but that's exactly why we needed this trip.


Explore the breathtaking landscapes and rich biodiversity of Parque Natural de las Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas, a paradise for nature lovers in Spain.
The air was warm and dry, a welcome change from the sometimes-damp Berlin weather. According to the forecast, we can expect sunny days with temperatures in the mid-70s Fahrenheit for most of our stay, perfect for hiking and exploring. I made a mental note to buy some insect repellent, as I’d forgotten to pack it, and I'm sure the mosquitos will be out in full force, ready to welcome us to their home. I also regretted not bringing my binoculars; Kai is keen on bird watching and I'm sure he would have appreciated them. I guess a trip to a local shop is in order, which is something I enjoy anyway, as it gives me a chance to mingle and practice my Spanish.

Our first stop was the heart of the Parque Natural de las Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas itself. I was immediately struck by the sheer scale of the place. It’s the largest protected area in Spain, and the second largest in Europe, and you can feel it. The landscape is a tapestry of forests, rivers, and dramatic peaks. It's easy to see why UNESCO designated it a Biosphere Reserve. The air is clean and fresh, filled with the scent of pine and wildflowers. I already felt a sense of calm wash over me, a feeling I desperately needed after months of juggling translation projects and cultural consulting gigs in Berlin.

Kai, ever the observant teenager, was immediately pointing out different species of trees and birds. Lena, with her curatorial eye, was captivated by the way the light played across the landscape. As for me, I just stood there for a moment, taking it all in, feeling the warm sun on my face, and breathing in the crisp mountain air. This was exactly what we needed – a chance to reconnect with nature and with each other.

Nature is not a place to visit. It is home.

After a brief exploration of the park's entrance, we drove to the nearby town of Cazorla. The town itself is a charming warren of narrow, winding streets, lined with whitewashed houses adorned with colorful flower pots. It’s the kind of place where you can easily get lost, but happily so. We parked the car and set out to explore, our first destination being the Castillo de la Yedra, perched high above the town.


Discover the stunning Castillo de la Yedra, where history, architecture, and breathtaking views converge in the heart of Cazorla.
The climb up to the Castillo de la Yedra was a bit steep, but the views from the top were well worth the effort. The castle, also known as the Castillo de las Cuatro Esquinas (Castle of the Four Corners), has a rich history, dating back to the Berber era, although its current form is largely the result of Christian construction in the 13th and 14th centuries. As we wandered through its ancient walls and towers, we could almost hear the echoes of battles and sieges from centuries past. The castle also houses the Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares del Alto Guadalquivir, which provided a fascinating glimpse into the local culture and traditions.

Lena was particularly fascinated by the Gothic ribbed vault in the Noble Room and the Flemish tapestries from the 17th century. Kai, on the other hand, was more interested in the weapons room, filled with swords, crossbows, and suits of armor. I enjoyed simply taking in the panoramic views of Cazorla and the surrounding countryside. From up there, you could see the whole town spread out below, a patchwork of white buildings and red-tiled roofs, nestled in the shadow of the Sierra de Cazorla. It was a truly breathtaking sight.

After our visit to the castle, we were all feeling a bit peckish, so we decided to find a place for lunch. Based on some online reviews, I had made a reservation at Mesón Don Chema, a restaurant known for its traditional Cazorlan cuisine. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, with a rustic décor that featured hunting trophies and photos adorning the walls. The atmosphere was warm and welcoming, and we immediately felt at home.


Experience authentic Spanish cuisine at Mesón Don Chema in Cazorla – where tradition meets taste in a warm and inviting atmosphere.
The food was absolutely delicious. We started with some local olive oil and bread, followed by a selection of tapas, including *rin ran* (a local vegetable salad) and *croquetas de jabalí* (wild boar croquettes). For our main courses, Lena ordered the *solomillo de ciervo a la miel* (venison sirloin with honey), Kai opted for the *secreto ibérico* (Iberian pork), and I went for the *piruletas de ciervo* (venison lollipops), which were surprisingly tasty. Everything was cooked to perfection, and the flavors were rich and authentic. We finished our meal with a *torrija con helado de leche merengada* (French toast with meringue ice cream), a sweet and satisfying end to a wonderful meal.

During lunch, we chatted about our plans for the rest of the week. Tomorrow, we're planning a hike along the Río Borosa and a visit to the Nacimiento del Río Guadalquivir, the source of the Guadalquivir River. I'm already looking forward to exploring more of the park's natural beauty and discovering its hidden gems. I'm also hoping to find a good spot for stargazing; I've heard that the night skies in Cazorla are incredibly dark and clear, far from the light pollution of Berlin.

After lunch, we strolled through the town, soaking up the atmosphere and browsing the local shops. We stopped at La Despensa Del Parque Natural, a charming little shop that sells local products such as olive oil, cheese, honey, and wine. I picked up a bottle of local red wine and some cheese for a picnic later in the week. I also bought a small *ukulele* for Kai, hoping to encourage him to embrace his Hawaiian heritage and maybe even learn a few chords. As we left the shop, I couldn't help but smile. This trip was already exceeding my expectations.


Discover unique souvenirs and local delicacies at La Despensa Del Parque Natural, a charming store in Cazorla, Spain.
For dinner, we had reservations at Restaurante La Yedra, another highly-rated restaurant in Cazorla. This restaurant was a bit more formal than Mesón Don Chema, but the food was just as delicious. We started with some *calamares a la andaluza* (Andalusian-style calamari), followed by a selection of local fish dishes. Lena tried the *trucha a la Cazorla* (trout Cazorla-style), while Kai and I opted for the *bacalao a la vizcaína* (cod Vizcaya-style). The seafood was incredibly fresh and flavorful, and the service was impeccable. It was the perfect way to end our first day in Cazorla.


Experience authentic Spanish cuisine amidst the breathtaking landscapes of Cazorla at Restaurante La Yedra.
As the sun began to set, we made our way back to our *casa rural*, a charming little guesthouse on the outskirts of town. The sky was ablaze with color, and the air was filled with the sound of crickets chirping. As I sat on the porch, sipping a glass of local wine, I couldn't help but feel grateful for this opportunity to escape the hustle and bustle of city life and reconnect with my family in such a beautiful and peaceful setting. Cazorla had already captured my heart, and I knew that the next few days would be filled with even more unforgettable experiences.

Before drifting off to sleep, I thought about tomorrow's hike and the stunning views we'd hopefully encounter. Lena had also mentioned wanting to visit a local bar in the evening, Bar Antique Tapas, to sample some more local flavors. It's a welcome change from our usual routine, and I'm excited to see what other hidden gems Cazorla has to offer. I drifted off to sleep with a smile on my face, already dreaming of tomorrow's adventures.