Family Adventure in the Ancient Forests of Yakushima

Guardians of Time and Spirit

Today, Yakushima revealed another layer of its enchanting soul. It wasn't just about the breathtaking landscapes, but about the deep-rooted spirituality that permeates this ancient island. We embarked on a journey to connect with the island's history, nature, and the quiet whispers of its ancient guardians.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Aqua Cafe in Miyanoura. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee mingled with the anticipation of the day ahead. I opted for their famous hamburg steak, while Maximilian enjoyed a seafood pasta, and Hanna, ever so predictable, devoured a plate of fluffy omurice. The warm and inviting atmosphere of the cafe, reminiscent of a cozy home, set the perfect tone for our explorations.

Fueled and ready, we set off to find Daio Sugi, the 'Great King Cedar'. As we hiked along the Okabu Trail, the air grew cooler, carrying the scent of damp earth and ancient wood. The path was well-maintained, but the roots of the trees created a natural obstacle course, adding a touch of adventure. The forest was alive with the sounds of rustling leaves and the occasional chirping of birds, a symphony of nature that calmed my soul. It was easy to see why Yakushima is a UNESCO World Heritage Site; the island is a treasure trove of biodiversity and natural beauty.

Finally, we reached Daio Sugi, and I was immediately struck by its sheer size and presence. This ancient tree, estimated to be around 3,000 years old, stood tall and proud, a silent witness to centuries of history. Its massive trunk, with a circumference of 11.1 meters, was a testament to its resilience and longevity. Unlike the Jomon Sugi, which can only be viewed from a distance, we were able to approach Daio Sugi and admire its grandeur up close. It was humbling to stand in its presence, feeling so small and insignificant in comparison. Hanna was particularly fascinated, circling the tree and touching its rough bark with reverence.


Witness the grandeur of Daio Sugi, an ancient cedar on Yakushima Island, offering an up-close encounter with nature's giants.

To walk in a forest of ancient trees is to walk in a cathedral of time.

The Daio Sugi, though showing signs of age with parts of its hollow visible, exuded a majestic aura. I tried to imagine all the seasons it had weathered, the storms it had endured, and the countless creatures that had sought shelter within its branches. It was a powerful reminder of the enduring strength of nature and the importance of preserving these ancient ecosystems. Maximilian, ever the pragmatist, was busy capturing the moment with his camera, determined to preserve the memory of this encounter.

Leaving Daio Sugi, we made our way to the Yakushima Shrine. Nestled on the western side of the Miyanoura River estuary, the shrine exuded a sense of tranquility and history. The path leading to the shrine was lined with moss-covered stones and towering trees, creating a serene and almost mystical atmosphere.

As we approached the main hall, I noticed the intricate details of the traditional architecture. The weathered wood, the graceful curves of the roof, and the subtle ornamentation all spoke of a rich cultural heritage. We learned that the shrine is dedicated to Ippon Hoju Daigongen, a deity revered by the traditional mountain worship religion and highly respected as the guardian shrine of Yakushima and Tanegashima islands.


Discover tranquility at Yakushima Shrine, a serene Shinto sanctuary nestled amidst the ancient forests of Yakushima Island.

Hanna was particularly intrigued by the pair of Deva king statues and the shrine's chozubachi (hand-washing basin), which have been designated as cultural properties of Yakushima Town. She carefully washed her hands, mimicking the locals, and then bowed respectfully before the altar. It was heartwarming to see her embracing the local customs and traditions.

After paying our respects at the shrine, we took a moment to wander through the grounds. The air was filled with the scent of incense and the gentle sounds of nature. I found a quiet spot beneath a towering cedar tree and closed my eyes, allowing the tranquility of the surroundings to wash over me. It was a moment of pure bliss, a reminder to slow down and appreciate the simple things in life.

As evening approached, we made our way back to Miyanoura for dinner. We chose Wakadaisho, an izakaya-style restaurant known for serving local fish caught by their own fishing boats. The restaurant was bustling with locals, creating a lively and authentic atmosphere. We ordered a selection of fresh seafood dishes, including sashimi, grilled fish, and tempura. Each dish was bursting with flavor, a testament to the quality of the local ingredients.


Experience authentic sushi crafted with fresh local ingredients in the heart of Yakushima's natural beauty.

Maximilian, always eager to try new things, sampled some local shochu, while Hanna happily munched on edamame. I savored the delicate flavors of the sashimi, appreciating the freshness and the skill of the chef. It was the perfect way to end a day filled with exploration and spiritual connection.

After dinner, we decided to treat ourselves to a nightcap at Cafe＆Bar RainTree. The bar had a cozy and intimate atmosphere, with soft lighting and comfortable seating. We ordered a round of cocktails and chatted about our experiences of the day. It was a relaxing and enjoyable way to unwind before heading back to our guesthouse.


Experience the vibrant blend of karaoke and cafe culture at Cafe＆Bar RainTree in beautiful Yakushima, Japan.

As I lay in bed, reflecting on the day, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the magic of Yakushima. The island had touched my soul in a profound way, reminding me of the importance of connecting with nature, embracing history, and finding moments of peace and tranquility in our busy lives. I am also grateful that I had remembered to pack my travel guide today, as it had proven to be very useful.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Yakushima Sea Turtle Hall and relax in the Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen. I'm particularly excited about the onsen, as I've heard it's a unique and unforgettable experience. I'm also hoping to find some time to visit the Yakushima Market, where I can pick up some local souvenirs and sample some of the island's delicacies. Until then, I'll drift off to sleep, dreaming of ancient cedars and the whispers of the forest.

P.S. I am so glad that we decided to come to Yakushima in October. The weather has been perfect for hiking, and the autumn foliage is starting to add a touch of color to the landscape. It's truly a magical time to be here.

Before concluding, I must mention that I had a brief conversation with Maximilian about our daughter Hanna's future education. We are considering sending her to a bilingual school when we return to Heidelberg. We believe it will be a valuable asset for her future, given our international lifestyle. It's just a thought for now, but it's something we are seriously considering.