Family Adventure in the Ancient Forests of Yakushima

A Day of Discovery on Yakushima

Today was a day of contrasts and profound connection with Yakushima, a blend of cultural immersion and physical challenge that left me feeling both humbled and exhilarated. We started our day with a visit to the Yakusugi Museum, followed by an ambitious hike up Mt. Miyanoura, the highest peak on the island. It was a day that tested our limits and rewarded us with breathtaking views and a deeper understanding of this unique island.

Our morning began with a hearty breakfast at Smiley. Maximilian opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, while Hanna devoured a stack of fluffy pancakes. I enjoyed a simple yet satisfying toast with homemade jam. The cozy atmosphere and friendly staff at Smiley made it the perfect start to our day. With our bellies full and spirits high, we set off for the Yakusugi Museum.

The Yakusugi Museum provided an insightful introduction to the island's ancient cedar forests and the history of the Yakusugi industry. I was fascinated by the exhibits detailing the research on Yakushima's unique ecosystem. They even had a piece of the Jomon Sugi that broke off due to heavy snow, which was incredible to see up close. Hanna was particularly intrigued by the displays about the island's flora and fauna, pointing out the different types of trees and animals she recognized from our hikes. Maximilian appreciated the historical context, learning about the impact of logging on the island and the subsequent conservation efforts. This museum offered a comprehensive overview of Yakushima's natural and cultural heritage, setting the stage for our ascent of Mt. Miyanoura.


Explore Yakusugi Museum: a gateway to Yakushima's ancient cedars and unique ecosystem, nestled in a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The best view comes after the hardest climb.

After immersing ourselves in the museum, we felt ready to tackle Mt. Miyanoura. The weather in Yakushima can be unpredictable, and today was no exception. October typically brings daytime temperatures around 22°C, but with 18 days of rain in the month, we knew we had to be prepared. We packed our rain jackets and plenty of water, mindful of the portable phone charger and bug spray we’d forgotten at the start of our trip. The hike was challenging, to say the least. The trail was steep and rocky, and the air was thick with humidity. Hanna, bless her adventurous spirit, kept up remarkably well, though we had to take frequent breaks to keep her energy levels up. Maximilian and I took turns carrying her on our backs when the terrain became too difficult for her small legs. The ascent was a physical challenge, but the stunning views along the way made it all worthwhile. We passed through lush forests, crossed crystal-clear streams, and marveled at the towering Yakusugi cedars that dotted the landscape.

Reaching the summit of Mt. Miyanoura was an incredible feeling. The panoramic views of the island were simply breathtaking. We could see the coastline stretching out in both directions, the rolling mountains covered in dense forests, and the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean. It was a moment of pure awe and gratitude, a reminder of the incredible beauty that exists in the world. We spent some time at the top, soaking in the scenery and taking photos to capture the memory. Hanna was especially proud of herself for making it to the top, declaring that she was the queen of the mountain.


Explore the breathtaking landscapes and ancient cedar forests of Mt. Miyanoura, the highest peak in Kyushu, a treasure for nature enthusiasts.

As we descended, the late afternoon sun cast long shadows through the forest, creating a magical atmosphere. We made our way to Yakushima No Kokusan Tatami Nakajima Tatami Shop. I have always appreciated the simple elegance of tatami mats, a nod to my Korean heritage, where similar mats are used. I was interested in finding a small, authentic souvenir. The shop was a treasure trove of handcrafted items, from traditional mats to modern accessories made with tatami-heri, the colorful ribbon used to fasten the sides. The scent of the tatami was calming and familiar, reminding me of my grandmother's house in Gyeongju. I ended up buying a set of tatami coasters and a small pouch made of tatami-heri, perfect reminders of our time on Yakushima.


Discover the artistry of tatami making at Yakushima No Kokusan Tatami Nakajima Tatami Shop, a cultural gem on Yakushima Island.

For dinner, we decided to treat ourselves to a special meal at Shiosai. This restaurant is known for its fresh, locally caught seafood, and we were eager to try some of Yakushima's specialties. We started with mackerel sashimi, a local delicacy that was incredibly fresh and flavorful. Maximilian and I also shared a tempura set, which included a variety of seafood and vegetables lightly battered and fried to perfection. Hanna opted for a simpler grilled fish dish, which she devoured with gusto. The serene atmosphere and attentive service at Shiosai made it a perfect end to our day.


Experience authentic Japanese tempura at Shiosai in Yakushima—where fresh ingredients meet culinary excellence.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Daio Sugi and the Yakushima Shrine. I’m particularly excited to see Daio Sugi, another giant cedar that has stood for centuries. And perhaps, if we have time, we'll enjoy a relaxing drink at Cafe＆Bar RainTree. Each day on Yakushima seems to bring new adventures and deeper appreciation for the island's unique beauty.

Today was a testament to the fact that travel is not just about seeing new places, but about challenging yourself, connecting with nature, and creating lasting memories with loved ones.