Family Adventure in the Ancient Forests of Yakushima

Guardians of the Forest

Today, Yakushima revealed another layer of its enchanting soul. It wasn't just a hike; it was an immersion into a world where ancient trees whisper stories of resilience, and the forest floor breathes with a vibrant, mossy life. It’s a place where every step feels like a privilege, a chance to connect with something timeless.

Our day began with an early breakfast at Aqua Cafe. The cafe's cozy atmosphere and the promise of a hearty meal set the perfect tone for our adventure. I opted for the seafood pasta, and Maximilian, ever the traditionalist, chose the hamburg-steak omurice. Hanna, of course, was thrilled with her mini-sized portion of pasta. Aqua Cafe is known for its warm ambiance and delicious food, and it certainly lived up to its reputation. The seafood pasta was delicious, with perfectly cooked scallops and shrimp. Maximilian enjoyed his hamburg-steak omurice, which had a juicy, medium-well center. Fuelled up and ready, we set off for Shiratani Unsui Gorge.


Explore the lush beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a scenic gem in Yakushima, featuring ancient cedar forests and stunning hiking trails.
The drive to Shiratani Unsui Gorge was an experience in itself. The winding mountain roads offered glimpses of the island's dramatic landscape, a tapestry of green that seemed to stretch on forever. October in Yakushima is pleasantly warm, with daytime temperatures around 25°C, and a chance of rain. We were fortunate that the weather was on our side, with a mix of sunshine and overcast skies.

Upon arriving at Shiratani Unsui Gorge, I was immediately struck by the sheer density of the forest. The air was thick with moisture, and the scent of cedar and damp earth filled my lungs. This gorge is said to be the inspiration for Studio Ghibli's *Princess Mononoke*, and it was easy to see why. The moss-covered forest, with its ancient trees and crystal-clear streams, felt like stepping into a fairy tale.

We chose the Taikoiwa course, a 5.6km trail that promised breathtaking views from the top. The hike was challenging, with steep inclines and rocky paths, but it was also incredibly rewarding. Hanna, surprisingly, was a real trooper, navigating the terrain with the enthusiasm only a six-year-old can muster. Maximilian, ever the supportive husband, kept a watchful eye on both of us, his hand always ready to help us over a particularly tricky spot. I found myself often stopping to take photos, trying to capture the ethereal beauty of the forest, but of course, no photo could ever truly do it justice.

In the heart of Yakushima, nature composes a symphony of ancient trees and vibrant moss, inviting you to listen closely.

The forest floor was a carpet of emerald green, with moss clinging to every surface. Ancient yakusugi cedar trees, some over a thousand years old, stood tall and proud, their gnarled branches reaching towards the sky. The sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating a magical play of light and shadow. It felt like we were walking through a cathedral, the trees our pillars, the sky our stained glass.

We reached Wilson's Stump, a colossal remnant of a giant cedar tree, believed to be over 3,000 years old before it was cut down.
Discover the ancient heart of Yakushima at Wilson's Stump, a majestic cedar remnant offering a unique glimpse into the island's natural history.
Named after the British botanist Ernest Henry Wilson, who brought Yakushima's unique flora to the world's attention, the stump is a testament to the island's long history of logging. Stepping inside the hollow stump was an awe-inspiring experience. The space within was vast, easily accommodating our little family. Looking up, we saw the famous heart-shaped opening, a perfect frame for the sky above. It was a moment of quiet contemplation, a chance to reflect on the passage of time and the resilience of nature.

According to local lore, the tree was felled around 500 years ago under the orders of the warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who needed the wood to build a temple in Kyoto. Whether that's true or not, standing inside that stump, I felt a connection to the past, a sense of the history that permeates every corner of this island. Wilson himself thought the stump was a cave at first, until he ventured inside and realized it was the inside of a tree.

After Wilson's Stump, we continued our hike, eventually reaching Taiko Iwa (Drum Rock), a massive rocky outcrop that offers panoramic views of Yakushima's interior mountains. The climb to the top was steep and challenging, but the view was more than worth it. From our vantage point, we could see the island stretching out in all directions, a sea of green broken only by the occasional rocky peak. The wind whipped around us, carrying the scent of the forest, and for a moment, I felt like we were on top of the world.

As we descended, the forest seemed to change, revealing new details with every step. We passed ancient cedar trees, their roots intertwined like grasping hands, and clear streams, their waters babbling over moss-covered stones. We even spotted a few Yakushima macaques, the island's native monkeys, watching us from the trees. Hanna was thrilled, of course, though we made sure to keep a respectful distance.

After our hike, we were famished. We decided to have lunch at Wakadaisho in Miyanoura.
Experience authentic sushi crafted with fresh local ingredients in the heart of Yakushima's natural beauty.
This izakaya-style restaurant is known for its fresh seafood, sourced directly from their own fishing boats. Maximilian and I shared a fish sashimi platter, while Hanna enjoyed a bowl of udon noodles. The fish was incredibly fresh, and the atmosphere was lively and welcoming. The staff was friendly and accommodating, making us feel right at home.

For dinner, we decided to try Il Mare, an Italian restaurant located near the airport.
Discover Il Mare in Yakushima for an unforgettable Italian dining experience amidst stunning natural beauty.
It might seem strange to eat Italian food in Japan, but Il Mare is known for using local ingredients in its dishes, creating a unique fusion of flavors. We started with a selection of appetizers, featuring local vegetables and seafood, and then moved on to the main courses. I ordered the seafood pasta, while Maximilian opted for the venison pizza, a Yakushima specialty. Hanna, of course, stuck with her trusty pasta. Everything was delicious, and the atmosphere was cozy and inviting.

Before heading back to our guesthouse, we stopped by Cafe＆Bar RainTree for a nightcap.
Experience the vibrant blend of karaoke and cafe culture at Cafe＆Bar RainTree in beautiful Yakushima, Japan.
The bar had a laid-back vibe, and the bartender mixed us some delicious cocktails using local spirits. It was the perfect way to end a long but fulfilling day.

Tomorrow, we plan to tackle the Jōmon Sugi trail and explore Yakusugi Land. It’s supposed to be a more challenging hike, but I am excited to see the oldest and largest cedar tree on the island. I've packed extra snacks and water, and I'm hoping Hanna will be up for the adventure. Maybe I'll even remember the bug spray this time!

As I sit here writing this, I can still feel the forest beneath my feet, the scent of cedar in my nostrils, and the echo of the wind in my ears. Yakushima is more than just a destination; it's an experience that stays with you long after you leave. It's a reminder of the power and beauty of nature, and the importance of preserving it for future generations. It's a place where you can reconnect with yourself, with your family, and with the world around you.

Perhaps Ernest Henry Wilson said it best when he claimed he had not seen such a magnificent forest before, not even after his many extensive adventures throughout China.