Family Adventure in the Ancient Forests of Yakushima

Guardians of Time

Today, we ventured deep into the heart of Yakushima, a realm where time seems to slow down and the ancient spirits of the forest whisper secrets to those who listen. It was a day of pilgrimage, a journey to connect with the island's most venerable residents: the ancient cedar trees. These silent giants, some thousands of years old, stand as living monuments to the enduring power and beauty of nature, offering a humbling perspective on our place in the grand tapestry of life.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Smiley in Anbo. Maximilian and Hanna were particularly excited, fueled by the promise of adventure. I enjoyed a simple, yet delicious, Korean-inspired breakfast I made at our guesthouse, a reminder of home amidst this incredible journey. After breakfast, we drove towards the trailhead, the crisp morning air filled with the scent of pine and damp earth. It was a Tuesday, and the island was slowly awakening.


Discover the cozy Smiley Café in Yakushima – where exceptional coffee meets delicious cakes and sandwiches in a warm atmosphere.
Our primary goal for today was to visit Jōmon Sugi. As we prepared for our trek, I double-checked our essentials: water, snacks, and of course, my camera. I made a mental note that we still needed to buy bug spray; the mosquitos were quite persistent yesterday. The trail to Jōmon Sugi is not a short one; it’s a commitment that requires both physical and mental preparation.

The path to Jōmon Sugi is more than just a hike; it's a journey through time. The initial section of the trail follows an old, seldom-used railway line. This railway, a relic from the island's logging past, provided a fascinating glimpse into Yakushima's history. As we walked along the tracks, I tried to imagine the bustling activity of the past, when these forests echoed with the sounds of industry. Maximilian pointed out the engineering of the tracks, a testament to human ingenuity amidst the raw power of nature. Hanna, ever curious, peppered us with questions about the trains and the people who once worked here.

As we ventured deeper, the trail transformed from railway tracks to a more traditional hiking path. The Okabu Trail, as it's known, meandered through the forest, following the contours of the land. Here, the true magic of Yakushima revealed itself. Towering cedar trees, draped in emerald moss, lined our path, their gnarled branches reaching towards the sky like ancient arms. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting dappled shadows on the forest floor. The air was thick with the scent of damp earth and the sweet fragrance of cedar. I paused frequently, captivated by the sheer beauty and serenity of our surroundings. It was easy to see why Yakushima is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The forest was alive, a symphony of green and brown, of light and shadow, of silence and whispers.

Along the way, we encountered other notable trees, each with its own story to tell. The Meotosugi, a pair of trees that resemble a husband and wife embracing, stood as a symbol of enduring love. Wilson's Stump, the hollowed-out remains of a giant cedar felled centuries ago, offered a unique perspective. Peering inside, I was struck by the sheer scale of the tree and the intricate patterns of its wood grain. It was a somber reminder of the island's logging history, but also a testament to the resilience of nature.

Finally, after hours of hiking, we reached Jōmon Sugi. The sight of this ancient tree was truly awe-inspiring. Estimated to be between 2,000 and 7,200 years old, Jōmon Sugi is considered the oldest tree in Japan. Its massive trunk, measuring approximately 5 meters in diameter, exuded a sense of timelessness and wisdom. Although we could only view the tree from a platform some distance away, its presence was palpable. I felt a deep connection to the tree, a sense of reverence for its long life and its silent witness to the passage of time. Hanna, wide-eyed with wonder, whispered, It's like a king!


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.
I learned that the Jōmon Sugi was discovered in 1968, which led to Yakushima becoming a popular destination for nature enthusiasts. The name Jōmon Sugi comes from the Jōmon period in Japanese prehistory.

We spent some time simply observing Jōmon Sugi, soaking in its energy and reflecting on its significance. It was a moment of profound peace, a reminder of the importance of preserving our natural heritage. As we began our descent, I felt a renewed sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the magic of Yakushima.

Following our visit to Jōmon Sugi, we decided to explore Yakusugi Land. This natural recreation forest offers a variety of hiking trails, ranging from easy boardwalks to more challenging mountain paths. Given our already tiring legs, we opted for one of the shorter courses, a leisurely stroll through the moss-covered forest.


Explore Yakusugi Land: a UNESCO World Heritage nature preserve in Yakushima known for its ancient cedar trees and stunning hiking trails.
Yakusugi Land is a designated Natural Recreation Forest. The park spans 270 hectares and sits at an altitude of 1,000 to 1,300 meters. Established in March 1974, along with the Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine, it’s known for its easy access and beautiful nature.

Even on the shorter trail, the beauty of Yakusugi Land was undeniable. Ancient cedar trees, with names like Buddhasugi, lined our path, their massive trunks adorned with vibrant green moss. Crystal-clear streams gurgled through the forest, their banks lined with lush ferns and wildflowers. The air was alive with the sounds of nature: the rustling of leaves, the chirping of birds, and the gentle murmur of the wind.

There are several courses available in Yakusugi Land. The Fureai-no-michi path is an easy 30-minute course. The 50-minute course is also easy and well-maintained. For more experienced hikers, the 80-minute course offers a taste of real hiking. The 150-minute course extends further into the forest. The Tenmon-no-mori course is the longest at 210 minutes.

I found a shop selling local wooden products and considered purchasing a souvenir. I was tempted by a beautiful wooden comb, but ultimately decided to wait. I reminded myself that I wanted to buy some tatami mats, perhaps at Yakushima No Kokusan Tatami Nakajima Tatami Shop.


Discover the artistry of tatami making at Yakushima No Kokusan Tatami Nakajima Tatami Shop, a cultural gem on Yakushima Island.
As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Shiosai for dinner. The restaurant is known for its authentic Japanese tempura. We savored every bite, reflecting on the incredible experiences of the day. Hanna, exhausted but content, fell asleep in my arms as we drove back to our guesthouse.


Experience authentic Japanese tempura at Shiosai in Yakushima—where fresh ingredients meet culinary excellence.
Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Kigensugi Cedar and Ryujin Falls. I am particularly excited to see the Kigensugi Cedar, as it is accessible by car. I am also looking forward to trying Fisherman's Bar NINA.

Back at our guesthouse, I sit on the porch, listening to the sounds of the night. The forest is alive with unseen creatures, their calls and rustlings a constant reminder of the wildness that surrounds us. I feel a deep sense of gratitude for this day, for the opportunity to walk among giants and to connect with the ancient spirit of Yakushima. It is a day I will never forget.

As I prepare for sleep, I am already anticipating tomorrow’s adventures, the promise of new discoveries and the continued exploration of this magical island. I am reminded that even in the face of the world's challenges, there are still places of profound beauty and enduring strength, places like Yakushima that offer solace, inspiration, and a renewed sense of hope.