Family Adventure in the Ancient Forests of Yakushima

Finding Peace in Yakushima's Embrace

Today was a day of gentle exploration, a soothing balm for the soul amidst the ancient landscapes of Yakushima. It was about breathing in the salty air, witnessing nature's artistry, and savoring the simple joys of island life. Join me as I recount our tranquil Sunday, a day where the whispers of the sea and the stories of ancient trees filled our hearts with peace.

Our day began with the familiar hustle of getting Hanna ready. Breakfast at the Yakushima Airport Restaurant was a surprisingly pleasant affair. Maximilian enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast set, while Hanna opted for toast with a side of fruit. I chose a comforting bowl of miso soup with rice, a simple yet satisfying start to the day. It’s funny how even airport food can taste special when you're in a place as unique as Yakushima. The restaurant was bustling with fellow travelers, a mix of hikers and tourists eager to explore the island's wonders. After our meal, we packed our daypacks, double-checking for water, snacks, and of course, our trusty rain jackets – Yakushima's weather is known for its unpredictability, after all.

Our first destination was the East China Sea Observatory. The drive there was scenic in itself, winding through lush greenery and offering glimpses of the coastline. As we neared the observatory, the landscape opened up, revealing the vast expanse of the East China Sea. The observatory itself is a simple structure, but it provides an unobstructed view of the horizon. On a clear day, they say you can see the volcanic islands of Kuchinoerabujima, Kuroshima, Iwojima, and Takeshima dotting the sea. While the distant islands remained hidden behind a veil of mist, the sheer scale of the ocean was breathtaking. I could imagine the sun melting into the ocean during sunsets.


Breathtaking views of the East China Sea and distant volcanic islands await at this scenic Yakushima viewpoint.
Hanna was fascinated by the waves crashing against the shore below, and Maximilian, ever the photographer, busied himself capturing the panoramic views. I found a quiet spot to simply sit and absorb the serenity of the surroundings. The wind carried the scent of salt and pine, a refreshing combination that cleared my mind. It was a moment of pure tranquility, a reminder of the simple beauty that nature offers freely. I closed my eyes, listening to the rhythmic sound of the waves, feeling a sense of connection to the earth and the sea.

Nature does not hurry, yet everything is accomplished.

Next on our itinerary was Meoto Sugi, the 'Wedded Cedars'. To reach these ancient trees, we embarked on a portion of the Jomonsugi hiking trail. The trailhead was about a two-hour walk. The path was well-maintained, but sturdy hiking shoes were definitely a must. Hanna, surprisingly, was a trooper, her little legs carrying her with determination. Maximilian and I took turns keeping her entertained with stories and songs, making the hike a fun family adventure. The forest was enchanting, with towering Yakusugi cedars, moss-covered rocks, and the sounds of birds echoing through the trees. The air was crisp and clean, a welcome contrast to the city air of Heidelberg.


Discover the enchanting Meoto Sugi on Yakushima Island, where two ancient cedars intertwine in a symbol of enduring love and natural harmony.
As we approached Meoto Sugi, I could feel a sense of anticipation building. These two ancient Japanese cedar trees, fused together, stand as a symbol of unity and partnership. The larger tree, considered the husband, stands tall and strong, while the smaller one, the wife, leans affectionately towards its partner. Seeing them intertwined, their branches reaching out to each other, was incredibly moving. It was like witnessing a love story written in the rings of time. Hanna, perhaps sensing the significance of the moment, held my hand tightly as we gazed up at the majestic trees. It was a beautiful moment to share as a family.

We spent some time simply admiring Meoto Sugi, taking photos and soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. The trees exuded a sense of calm and resilience, a reminder that even in the face of adversity, love and connection can endure. The merging of the two trees symbolizes a harmonious union, a connection that has deepened over centuries. It was a fitting symbol for our own family, a reminder of the importance of love, commitment, and unwavering support. As we began our descent, I couldn't help but feel a sense of gratitude for having experienced such a special place.

Lunch was at Kamogawa Restaurant, a local favorite known for its fresh seafood and traditional Japanese dishes. The restaurant was bustling with both locals and tourists, a testament to its popularity. Maximilian and I decided to try the flying fish, a Yakushima specialty. I opted for the deep-fried version, while Maximilian chose grilled. Hanna, ever the adventurous eater, surprised us by trying a small piece of each. The deep-fried flying fish was crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, while the grilled version had a smoky, savory flavor. We also ordered a sashimi set, which included a variety of fresh seafood, including shrimp, squid, yellowtail, mackerel, and round herring. Everything was incredibly fresh and flavorful, a true taste of the island.

After lunch, we took a leisurely stroll through the town of Anbo, soaking in the local atmosphere. We popped into a few shops, browsing the local crafts and souvenirs. Hanna was particularly taken with a small wooden carving of a Yakushima deer, which we bought as a memento of our trip. As the afternoon wore on, we decided to treat ourselves to a little indulgence. We stopped by Fisherman's Bar NINA, a cozy spot known for its relaxed atmosphere and local drinks. Maximilian and I enjoyed a couple of local beers while Hanna sipped on a refreshing juice. The bar was decorated with nautical artifacts, giving it a charming, seaside vibe. It was a perfect way to unwind after a day of exploring.


Experience the freshest seafood in Yakushima at Fisherman's Bar NINA, where culinary excellence meets stunning ocean views.
For dinner, we had reservations at hiyoriya, a small vegan restaurant known for its organic and mostly vegetarian cuisine. The restaurant is a bit off the beaten path, tucked away from the main road, but it was well worth the effort to find. The atmosphere was intimate and welcoming, with only a handful of tables. The menu was a set course, featuring a variety of seasonal vegetables and locally sourced ingredients. The food was simple, yet incredibly flavorful, a testament to the chef's skill and passion. Hanna, surprisingly, enjoyed the meal, even trying some of the more unusual dishes. It was a delightful culinary experience, a perfect ending to a day of tranquility and exploration.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Hiyoriya in Yakushima, where fresh local ingredients meet traditional flavors amidst breathtaking scenery.
As we walked back to our guesthouse under the starlit sky, I reflected on the day's experiences. From the panoramic views at the East China Sea Observatory to the ancient embrace of Meoto Sugi, every moment had been special. Yakushima has a way of captivating the soul, of reminding you of the beauty and simplicity of life. I felt a sense of gratitude for having shared this day with my family, for creating memories that we would cherish for years to come.

Tomorrow, we plan to delve deeper into Yakushima's natural wonders with a visit to the Yakusugi Museum and a hike up Mt. Miyanoura. I am looking forward to learning more about the island's history and culture, and to challenging ourselves with a climb to the highest peak in Kyushu. But for now, I will savor the memories of this tranquil Sunday, letting the whispers of the sea and the stories of ancient trees lull me to sleep. We also hope to pick up some *tatami* mats at Yakushima No Kokusan Tatami Nakajima Tatami Shop. It's these local experiences I cherish the most.

The day reminded me of a quote by John Muir:

The mountains are calling and I must go.

Good night from Yakushima! Tomorrow, we conquer Mt. Miyanoura!