Musen & Elefanten

An old Copenhagen bar with a literary soul

Musen & Elefanten sits on Vestergade in the historic heart of Copenhagen, but inside it feels more like a time capsule than a typical city-center bar. The name, “The Mouse & The Elephant,” hints at a playful spirit, yet the atmosphere leans towards the contemplative: low ceilings, dark wood, soft lamplight and the gentle murmur of conversations layered over music. Tales tie the bar to generations of students, writers and philosophically inclined regulars who have treated it almost like an informal salon. Across its two levels, the space is broken into nooks and side rooms, creating small pockets of privacy where groups can settle in for long evenings. The decor is slightly scuffed rather than polished, giving the impression of a place that has been lived in and loved, not constantly redesigned to chase trends. It feels instantly familiar, even on a first visit.

Cocktails, beer and the rare pleasure of a cigar

Behind the bar, the focus is on classic drinks and reliable pours rather than experimental mixology. Expect draft Danish beers, a solid list of bottles and a line-up of timeless cocktails like Old Fashioneds and sours. Spirits lean towards whiskies, rums and other brown liquors that pair naturally with tobacco, and you may find a house-favorite Belgian or Danish brew on rotation. What truly sets Musen & Elefanten apart is its status as one of Copenhagen’s few cigar-friendly indoor bars. Tobacco smoke is part of the identity here, not an afterthought. Shelves and humidors often display a small but well-chosen cigar selection, and many guests settle in specifically to match a cigar with a slow-sipped drink. The air can grow thick on busy nights, but for aficionados this is a rare urban refuge where the combination of smoke, spirits and conversation is still very much alive.

Basement hideaway and upstairs gathering rooms

The layout is half the charm. The basement level feels like a hidden den: you descend into a warm, smoky glow where time blurs and the outside world recedes. A fireplace or candlelight, coupled with low-slung seating, makes it particularly welcoming on cold or rainy evenings. It is the kind of spot where you can lose track of the hour nursing the same glass. Upstairs, several compact rooms and corners create different moods. One space might be better for quiet conversation, another for a livelier group sharing rounds of beer. Wood-panelled walls, vintage posters and slightly worn furniture all contribute to an ambience that is relaxed rather than curated. You can sit at the bar for a more social experience or retreat to the side rooms if you are in the mood for something more private.

Night-owl rhythms in the center of the city

Musen & Elefanten keeps hours that cater to late-night city life. Located a short stroll from Copenhagen’s main pedestrian streets and squares, it often becomes a final stop after dinner, a show or a night of wandering the old town. On Thursdays the night deepens, and weekends regularly stretch past dawn, with the bar still active while the streets outside are beginning to quiet. Inside, the crowd shifts over the evening: early hours can feel calmer and more reflective, while later at night the bar takes on a more boisterous energy as groups settle in for one more round. The mix of locals, students, cigar fans and curious travelers gives the place a cosmopolitan yet deeply local feel.

Who will enjoy Musen & Elefanten most

This is not a bar for anyone seeking spotless minimalism or a smoke-free environment. Its strongest appeal is to travelers who enjoy characterful, slightly rough-around-the-edges places where atmosphere matters more than polish. Cigar smokers and fans of classic cocktails find in it a rare combination, while couples, solo visitors and small groups appreciate the intimate rooms and unhurried pace. If you are drawn to bars that feel like institutions rather than concepts—where the patina on the tables tells as many stories as the regulars at the counter—Musen & Elefanten offers a distinctly Copenhagen experience: cozy, a little eccentric, and best enjoyed slowly, drink in hand and the evening stretching ahead.