Family Heritage Journey to Harar

A Fond Farewell to the Walled City

As our family heritage journey to Harar draws to a close, I find myself overwhelmed with a mix of emotions. This trip was more than just a vacation; it was a homecoming, a reconnection with my roots, and an opportunity to share the beauty of Harar with my husband, Hans-Peter, and our daughter, Lila. It's hard to believe that nine days have passed since we arrived, eager to explore the city of my birth. Now, as we prepare to leave, my heart is full of cherished memories and a longing to return.

Our final day in Harar began, as many others did, with the tantalizing aroma of Ethiopian coffee wafting through the air. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at Tasty Cafe. I savored every sip of the *qurs* – a rich, dark brew that always reminds me of home. Lila, ever the adventurous eater, surprised us by trying (and enjoying!) a spicy *firfir*, a traditional dish of shredded *injera* tossed with spiced clarified butter and berbere. Hans-Peter, true to his German roots, opted for a milder omelet but still appreciated the vibrant atmosphere of the café.


Discover Tasty Cafe in Harar: where local flavors meet international cuisine in a cozy setting perfect for every traveler.
With our bellies full and spirits high, we set out to explore Harar Jegol, the ancient walled city that holds so much history and culture within its embrace. The sun was shining, casting a golden glow on the colorful buildings and bustling streets. We wandered through the narrow alleyways, soaking in the sights, sounds, and smells of this unique urban landscape. I pointed out the intricate details of the traditional Harari houses, with their ornate doorways and vibrant facades. Lila was fascinated by the children playing in the streets, their laughter echoing through the ancient walls.


Experience the authentic charm of Harar Jegol, a UNESCO World Heritage site, steeped in rich history and vibrant culture, perfect for travelers seeking a unique adventure.

The beauty of Harar lies not just in its historical landmarks, but in the warmth and resilience of its people.

Our exploration led us to Mana Uffata Aadaa Haadha Caayaa, a shop specializing in traditional Harari clothing. I wanted to find something special to take back to Munich, a tangible reminder of our time here. The shop was a riot of colors and textures, with intricately embroidered dresses, vibrant headscarves, and finely woven baskets. I selected a beautiful *qamis*, a traditional Harari dress, for Lila, adorned with delicate silver threads. For myself, I chose a handwoven shawl in rich earth tones, a piece that I knew would keep me warm on chilly Munich evenings while reminding me of the Ethiopian sun.


Explore the rich tapestry of Ethiopian fashion at Mana Uffata Aadaa Haadha Caayaa in Harar, where tradition meets contemporary style.
For lunch, we ventured to Boss Burger and Breakfast, a local eatery that offered a surprising twist on familiar fare. While Hans-Peter and Lila indulged in juicy burgers with a unique Ethiopian spice blend, I decided to try their take on a traditional Ethiopian breakfast. It was a delightful fusion of flavors, a testament to Harar's ability to blend the old and the new. The restaurant was bustling with locals, and we enjoyed chatting with our friendly server, who shared stories about life in Harar.


Discover delicious hamburgers and delightful breakfasts at Boss Burger and Breakfast in Harar – a culinary gem reflecting local flavors.
As the afternoon wore on, we made our way to Hirut Restaurant for our final dinner in Harar. This restaurant is renowned for its authentic Ethiopian cuisine, and I wanted to savor one last traditional meal before we departed. We ordered a variety of dishes to share, including *doro wat* (chicken stew), *shiro wat* (chickpea stew), and *gomen* (collard greens), all served with the ubiquitous *injera*. The flavors were rich and complex, a symphony of spices that danced on our tongues. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, and we felt like we were dining with family.


Discover authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Hirut Restaurant in Harar – where tradition meets flavor in a warm setting.
One of the most memorable aspects of this trip has been the opportunity to reconnect with my extended family. We spent countless hours sharing stories, reminiscing about the past, and making plans for the future. My cousins, aunts, and uncles welcomed us with open arms, showering us with love and hospitality. Lila, in particular, formed a special bond with my younger cousins, spending hours playing games and exploring the neighborhood. It warmed my heart to see her embrace her Ethiopian heritage and connect with her family in such a meaningful way.

Of course, no trip is without its minor hiccups. I was kicking myself for forgetting to pack a guidebook on Harar's history. While I knew a lot about the city from my own experiences and family stories, a guidebook would have provided additional context and insights. And, in my eagerness to capture every moment, I nearly filled up all the memory cards for my camera! Thankfully, my cousin was able to lend me an extra one, saving the day.

As I reflect on our time in Harar, I am filled with a sense of gratitude and contentment. I am grateful for the opportunity to share my heritage with my family, for the warm welcome we received from the local community, and for the countless memories we have created together. This trip has deepened my connection to my roots and has given Lila a greater appreciation for her Ethiopian identity.

Tomorrow, we will embark on our journey back to Munich, carrying with us the sights, sounds, and flavors of Harar. Although I am sad to leave, I know that a part of me will always remain in this vibrant and enchanting city. And I am already looking forward to the day when we can return. Perhaps next time, we'll plan our visit around the Timkat festival, which I've heard is an incredible celebration of Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity. Or maybe we'll venture out to the camel market in Babille. Whatever we do, I know it will be another unforgettable adventure.

In the meantime, I will cherish the memories we have made and continue to share the stories of Harar with anyone who will listen. It is a city that deserves to be known and appreciated, a hidden gem in the heart of Ethiopia. And I am proud to call it my birthplace. I am so happy to have been able to share it with my family, and I know that the memories we have made here will last a lifetime. I encourage everyone to visit Harar, to experience its unique culture, and to discover the warmth and hospitality of its people. You will not be disappointed. I know that Lila and Hans-Peter will never forget this trip, and I am so grateful to have been able to share it with them.

As we prepare to leave, I want to express my heartfelt gratitude to everyone who made our trip so special. To my family in Harar, thank you for your love, your hospitality, and your unwavering support. To the local community, thank you for welcoming us with open arms and for sharing your stories and traditions. And to Hans-Peter and Lila, thank you for joining me on this incredible journey and for embracing my heritage with such enthusiasm.

Until we meet again, Harar, *dehna hun!* (Goodbye!)