Solo Adventure in Yakushima: Exploring Japan's Enchanted Forests

Echoes of Ancient Giants

Today was a day of pilgrimage, a journey deep into the heart of Yakushima's ancient forests to commune with the island's oldest and most revered resident: the Jōmon Sugi. It was a day filled with awe, wonder, and a profound sense of connection to the natural world. I'm still processing the experience, trying to capture the essence of a day spent among trees that have stood for millennia.


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.
My day began early, with a hearty breakfast at Aqua Cafe. I enjoyed a simple meal of grilled fish and rice, fueling up for the long hike ahead. The cafe was cozy, filled with the chatter of fellow travelers and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee. It was a perfect start to a day dedicated to exploring Yakushima's natural wonders.

The journey to the Jōmon Sugi trailhead was an adventure in itself. I took a bus to the Arakawa Trailhead, a route that meandered through lush landscapes and offered glimpses of the island's stunning beauty. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of damp earth and cedar. It was a refreshing change from the city air I'm accustomed to back in Ottawa.

The Arakawa Trail, once a logging route, is now a path for pilgrims seeking the Jōmon Sugi. The first part of the hike was along a relatively flat, seldom-used railway. It was an easy start, allowing me to soak in the surroundings and prepare for the more challenging terrain ahead. The rhythmic sound of my hiking boots on the tracks was a soothing soundtrack to the unfolding landscape.

As I ventured deeper into the forest, the trail became steeper and more rugged. Towering yakusugi cedars, ancient giants with gnarled trunks and sprawling branches, lined the path. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting dappled shadows on the moss-covered ground. It felt like stepping into another world, a realm of ancient spirits and timeless beauty.

Along the way, I encountered other remarkable trees, each with its own unique character and story. The Meotosugi, a pair of trees that resemble a husband and wife embracing, stood as a symbol of love and connection. The Daiosugi, one of the largest trees on the island, exuded a sense of majesty and power. And Wilson's Stump, the hollowed-out remains of a giant cedar felled three centuries ago, offered a glimpse into the island's logging history.

In the presence of ancient trees, time ceases to exist, and we are reminded of the enduring power and resilience of nature.

After hours of hiking, I finally reached the Jōmon Sugi. The sight of this ancient giant was truly awe-inspiring. Estimated to be between 2,170 and 7,200 years old, the Jōmon Sugi is the oldest and largest of the yakusugi cedars on Yakushima. It stands 25.3 meters tall and has a trunk circumference of 16.4 meters. Its sheer size and age are humbling, a testament to the enduring power of nature.

I stood in silence, gazing up at the Jōmon Sugi, feeling a profound sense of connection to this ancient being. It was a moment of deep reverence, a communion with the spirit of the forest. The air was still and quiet, broken only by the gentle rustling of leaves. It felt like the forest itself was holding its breath in the presence of this ancient giant.

After spending some time with the Jōmon Sugi, I began my descent, retracing my steps along the Arakawa Trail. The hike back was just as rewarding, offering new perspectives on the landscape and a chance to reflect on the experience. The forest seemed to come alive in the afternoon light, with birds singing and insects buzzing.

Next on the agenda was Yakusugi Land, a natural recreation forest where I planned to immerse myself further in Yakushima's primeval forests. I chose the 150-minute hiking trail, wanting a moderate challenge and ample opportunity to soak in the scenery. The trails were well-maintained, and the forest was teeming with life. I passed the Butsudasugi Cedar, estimated to be 1,800 years old, and marveled at the stumps of trees harvested long ago, now covered in moss and nurturing new growth.


Explore Yakusugi Land: a UNESCO World Heritage nature preserve in Yakushima known for its ancient cedar trees and stunning hiking trails.
Yakusugi Land offered a different perspective on the ancient forests. While the Jōmon Sugi is a solitary giant, Yakusugi Land is a community of ancient trees, each contributing to the overall beauty and majesty of the forest. The air was thick with the scent of cedar, and the ground was soft and springy beneath my feet. It was a sensory feast, a balm for the soul.

One of the most fascinating aspects of Yakusugi Land was the way in which new cedars were growing on the stumps of fallen trees. It was a powerful symbol of regeneration and resilience, a reminder that life finds a way, even in the face of destruction. The forest was a living tapestry, woven from the threads of life, death, and rebirth.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way to YAKUSHIMA BLESS, a shop in Anbo known for its sustainable crafts made from Yakusugi cedar. I wanted to find a small memento of my journey, something that would remind me of the ancient forests and the profound connection I felt to the natural world. I purchased a small wooden carving of a yakusugi cedar, its intricate details capturing the essence of these ancient trees.


Explore Yakushima Bless: A vibrant shopping mall showcasing local artistry, traditional crafts, and unique souvenirs from the beautiful island of Yakushima.
For dinner, I ventured to Wakadaisho in Miyanoura. The restaurant is known for its fresh, local seafood. I savored every bite, reflecting on the day's adventures and the incredible beauty of Yakushima. I opted for a sushi set, allowing me to sample a variety of the restaurant's offerings. The fish was incredibly fresh, and the chef's skillful preparation highlighted its natural flavors. It was a perfect end to a perfect day.


Experience authentic sushi crafted with fresh local ingredients in the heart of Yakushima's natural beauty.
Tomorrow, I plan to explore the island's stunning waterfalls, including Senpiro Falls and Ohko Waterfall. I'm also looking forward to visiting Ganta, a local bar, for a taste of Yakushima's nightlife. I'm eager to see what other wonders this enchanting island has in store for me.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I stopped by At Pesca for a quick bite. Even though it's known for fast food, I was pleasantly surprised by the local flavors incorporated into their menu. It was a casual and satisfying way to end the evening.


Experience fast food like never before at At Pesca in Yakushima – where local flavors meet quick service in a delightful setting.
Today was more than just a hike; it was a spiritual journey. It was a reminder of the importance of preserving our natural heritage and connecting with the ancient wisdom of the earth. As I drift off to sleep, I can still hear the whispers of the ancient trees, their voices echoing in my heart.

I'm particularly grateful that I remembered to pack my travel journal. It was essential for jotting down my thoughts and impressions throughout the day. However, I'm kicking myself for forgetting insect repellent and sunscreen. The mosquitoes were relentless at times, and I definitely felt the sun's intensity, even through the forest canopy. Aisha would have reminded me, without a doubt.

Tomorrow, I'll make sure to rectify those oversights. After all, a well-prepared traveler is a happy traveler. And in a place as magical as Yakushima, happiness is a state of being that comes easily and naturally.