A Family Cultural Odyssey in Fes

First Impressions of Fes: A Journey Begins

Today marked the beginning of our family's adventure in Fes, a city I've long dreamt of visiting. Leaving behind the familiar comforts of Bamberg, I was eager to plunge into the heart of Moroccan culture. Fes, with its ancient medina and storied past, promised an experience unlike any other. This morning, after a smooth train ride from Casablanca, we stepped into a world that felt both ancient and vibrantly alive.

Our day began in the heart of it all: Fes El Bali, the oldest part of the city and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The moment we entered, I was struck by the sheer density of life, the narrow, winding alleyways teeming with people, donkeys, and the aroma of spices. It was a feast for the senses, a chaotic symphony that both overwhelmed and exhilarated me.


Explore the historic Fes El Bali, a UNESCO World Heritage site brimming with ancient architecture, vibrant souks, and rich Moroccan culture.
Our first stop was breakfast at Cafe Clock, a place I'd read about that seemed to perfectly blend tradition and modernity. Finding it was an adventure in itself, navigating the labyrinthine streets with Kian excitedly pointing out every new sight. The cafe was a haven of calm, with colorful decor and a welcoming atmosphere. We settled in for a traditional Moroccan breakfast of msemen (buttery pancakes) and mint tea. Kian, of course, opted for a fruit smoothie, a concession to his more modern tastes. Greta, ever the librarian, was already engrossed in a book she'd picked up at the cafe's small library, while I savored the strong, sweet tea and soaked in the atmosphere.

In the heart of Fes, time seems to slow, allowing you to truly connect with the culture and history that permeates every corner.

After breakfast, we ventured deeper into the medina, our destination the Bou Inania Madrasa. As a restorer of historical musical instruments, I have a deep appreciation for craftsmanship, and the madrasa did not disappoint. The intricate carvings, the delicate tilework, the sheer artistry of the place was breathtaking. Kian was fascinated by the water clock, Dar al-Magana, a testament to the ingenuity of the Marinid era. Greta, with her keen eye for detail, pointed out the subtle differences in the geometric patterns, each telling a story of a different era. I tried to imagine the scholars who had once walked these halls, their voices echoing in the cool, quiet spaces.


Explore the architectural beauty and cultural significance of Bou Inania Madrasa, an essential stop in the historic city of Fes, Morocco.
Leaving the madrasa, we found ourselves drawn into the bustling souks. The Cooperative Artisanal de Fes was our next stop, a place where local artisans showcased their crafts. I was immediately drawn to the woodworking, the intricate designs echoing the artistry I had seen in the madrasa. I purchased a small wooden box, its surface inlaid with mother-of-pearl, a memento of our first day in Fes. Greta, meanwhile, found a beautiful handwoven scarf, its colors reflecting the vibrant hues of the city. Kian, ever practical, chose a leather satchel, perfect for carrying his treasures.


Discover the vibrant craftsmanship of Morocco at Cooperative Artisanal de Fes, where tradition and artistry thrive in every handmade piece.
Lunch was at The Ruined Garden, a restaurant that lived up to its name in the most charming way possible. Set in the ruins of an old courtyard house, the garden was a verdant oasis, a welcome respite from the chaos of the souks. We dined on traditional Moroccan dishes, tagine and couscous, the flavors rich and complex. Kian surprised us all by devouring his tagine, declaring it the best meal he'd ever had. Greta and I shared a bottle of Moroccan wine, its taste as warm and inviting as the Fassi sun.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors in an enchanting garden setting at The Ruined Garden in Fes.
As the afternoon wore on, we made our way to the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts. Housed in a beautifully restored fondouk, the museum was a treasure trove of Moroccan woodworking. From intricate screens to ornate musical instruments, the collection showcased the skill and artistry of Moroccan artisans. I was particularly impressed by the collection of old woodworking tools, each a testament to the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the craftsmen. Kian, surprisingly, was captivated by the exhibits, asking questions about the different techniques and tools. It was a moment of connection, a shared appreciation for the beauty and artistry of the past.


Discover the rich heritage of Moroccan craftsmanship at the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts in historic Fes.
For dinner, we chose Les Mystères de Dar Tajine, a restaurant recommended by a local shopkeeper. Nestled in the heart of the medina, the restaurant was a hidden gem, its atmosphere warm and inviting. We feasted on tagine, of course, each bite a burst of flavor. The restaurant lived up to its reputation, offering a delightful end to a day filled with exploration and discovery.


Experience authentic Moroccan cuisine in Fes at Les Mystères de Dar Tajine, where tradition meets flavor in every dish.
As we walked back to our riad, the medina was transformed, the sounds of the day replaced by the soft murmur of evening prayers. The air was cooler, the shadows longer, and the city took on a different kind of magic. Kian, exhausted but happy, fell asleep in my arms, his face flushed with the excitement of the day. Greta and I walked hand in hand, our hearts full of the beauty and wonder of Fes.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Chouara Tannery, a place I'm both excited and apprehensive about. The smells, I've heard, can be overwhelming, but the sight of the tanneries, the ancient process of leather making, is something I don't want to miss. We'll also explore the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II and the serene Jnan Sbil gardens.

Today was more than just a day of sightseeing; it was an immersion into a culture, a journey into the heart of Fes. As I drifted off to sleep, I couldn't help but feel grateful for this opportunity, this chance to share the beauty and wonder of the world with my family. Fes, I knew, would leave an indelible mark on our hearts.

I feel incredibly fortunate to be able to share these experiences with my family, and to document them here. It's a way of preserving these memories, of sharing the beauty and wonder of the world with others. And perhaps, it's a way of inspiring others to embark on their own adventures, to step outside their comfort zones and discover the magic that awaits.

As I reflect on our first day, I'm reminded of a quote by Ibn Battuta, a Moroccan scholar and explorer:

Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.

And so, our story in Fes begins, a story I can’t wait to continue sharing with you all.