A Family Cultural Odyssey in Fes

The Pulse of Fes

Today was a day of contrasts, a sensory rollercoaster that perfectly encapsulates the essence of Fes. From the pungent aromas of the Chouara Tannery to the serene atmosphere of the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, and finally, the tranquil beauty of Jnan Sbil garden, Fes revealed its many layers. It was a day of immersion, a day of reflection, and a day that deepened my appreciation for this incredible city.


Explore the vibrant Chouara Tannery in Fes, a historic site showcasing traditional leather tanning techniques and colorful artistry unique to Morocco.

Our day started with breakfast at Nagham Cafe. It was a delightful spot near Bab Boujloud, offering a charming atmosphere with outdoor seating adorned with refreshing green plants. Kian, of course, was immediately drawn to the bright colours and the lively atmosphere. Greta and I enjoyed some traditional Moroccan coffee and pastries while Kian devoured an orange salad. It was the perfect way to fuel up for the day's adventures.

From there, we braced ourselves for the assault on the senses that is the Chouara Tannery. I had read so much about it, seen countless pictures, but nothing could have prepared me for the reality. The air was thick with the unmistakable scent of… well, let's just say it's a unique blend of natural processes! Thankfully, the locals handing out sprigs of mint were a lifesaver. Kian wrinkled his nose but gamely held the mint to his face, fascinated by the colorful vats below.

The sight was simply breathtaking. Men were working tirelessly in the dye-filled pits, using ancient techniques to transform animal hides into leather. The colors were vibrant – from the deep blues of indigo to the rich reds of poppy – creating a surreal, almost artistic tableau. It was a stark reminder of the craftsmanship and dedication that has been a part of Fes for centuries. As someone who appreciates the art of restoration, I couldn't help but admire the dedication to preserving these traditional methods.

Sometimes, the most unforgettable experiences are those that challenge our senses and push us beyond our comfort zones.

After the tannery, we sought a moment of spiritual respite at the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II. This sacred site is the final resting place of the founder of Fes, and it holds immense significance for Moroccans. While non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the main tomb chamber, we were able to admire the stunning architecture and soak in the peaceful atmosphere of the outer courtyard. The intricate tile work, the cedar wood carvings, and the overall sense of reverence were deeply moving. I felt a sense of connection to the history and culture of this city, a feeling that transcended religious boundaries.


Experience the sacred beauty of the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II in Fes, a historic site that embodies Moroccan spirituality and artistry.

Navigating the medina can be an adventure in itself, and today was no exception. After visiting the Mausoleum, we found ourselves drawn into Coin Berbere Carpets & Antiques. I've always appreciated the artistry and history woven into carpets, and this shop was a treasure trove of Berber designs. The family running the shop was incredibly welcoming, sharing stories about the different tribal groups and the unique weaving styles. Greta, with her librarian's eye for detail, was particularly fascinated by the intricate patterns and the history behind each piece. We ended up purchasing a small rug with a striking geometric design, a reminder of our time in Fes.


Explore the exquisite carpets and unique antiques at Coin Berbere, a family-owned gem in the heart of Fes, Morocco.

For lunch, we stopped at Le Tarbouche, a petite eatery that was bustling with tourists and locals alike. It was a welcome respite from the intensity of the medina. We enjoyed some traditional Fassi favorites, including a delicious vegetable pastilla and an assortment of Moroccan salads. Kian, surprisingly, was a big fan of the Moroccan mezze.


Savor authentic Moroccan flavors at Le Tarbouche in Fes – where tradition meets culinary delight.

In the late afternoon, we escaped the bustling medina and found solace in the Jnan Sbil garden. This meticulously manicured garden is a true oasis, a breath of fresh air in a city that can often feel overwhelming. We strolled along the shady paths, admiring the lush greenery, the fragrant roses, and the tranquil ponds. Kian was thrilled to spot peacocks and doves in the bird coops, his laughter echoing through the peaceful garden. It was the perfect way to unwind and reflect on the day's experiences.


Discover the tranquil beauty of Jnan Sbil, a serene garden oasis in Fes, Morocco, perfect for relaxation and exploration amidst lush greenery.

For dinner, we decided to treat ourselves to a truly authentic Moroccan experience at Restaurant Dar Hatim. This family-run restaurant is located in a beautifully decorated home in the Mellah, and it felt more like dining in a palace than a restaurant. The fixed menu offered a delectable array of Moroccan salads, followed by a choice of traditional dishes. I opted for the lamb tagine, which was cooked to perfection and bursting with flavor. Greta chose the chicken pastilla, a Fassi specialty, and raved about the crispy exterior and the sweet and savory filling. The hospitality was exceptional, and we felt like honored guests in their home. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day.


Experience authentic Moroccan cuisine at Restaurant Dar Hatim in Fès - where every meal tells a story of tradition and flavor.

As we walked back to our accommodation, the sounds of the city slowly fading, I couldn't help but feel a deep sense of gratitude for the experiences we had today. Fes had challenged us, inspired us, and ultimately, captivated us. I am already looking forward to tomorrow, when we plan to explore the Dar Batha Museum, the Al Attarine Madrasa, and the Andalusian Mosque. But for now, I will cherish the memories of this day, the sights, the smells, and the sounds of Fes echoing in my mind.

Today really highlighted how essential it is to have all your senses engaged when travelling. I must remember to buy a new portable charger as I forgot mine, and I almost ran out of battery on my phone today, which would have been a disaster!

Tomorrow, we're planning to delve even deeper into Fes's rich cultural tapestry. The itinerary includes a visit to the Dar Batha Museum, a treasure trove of Moroccan art and artifacts. I'm particularly excited to see the collection of traditional ceramics and wood carvings. We'll also be exploring the Al Attarine Madrasa, a stunning example of Islamic architecture with its intricate mosaics and delicate stucco work. And finally, we'll visit the Andalusian Mosque, a serene oasis of peace and tranquility. In between, we plan to visit Medin Art, to look at some more of the local artistry.

I’m particularly excited about the Al Attarine Madrasa, which I hear is an architectural marvel. I’m hoping to capture some stunning photographs there, so I’ll be sure to fully charge my camera tonight!

I am so glad that we decided to come to Fes and experience this cultural immersion with my family. It is something that I will cherish forever.