A Family Cultural Odyssey in Fes

Fez's Royal Allure
Today was a day of contrasts, where the imposing grandeur of Fes's royal presence met the lively pulse of its public spaces, all capped off with a modern twist high above the city. It was a journey through time and culture, experienced with my family, that left us all in awe of this city's multifaceted charm.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at La Breva, a delightful spot recommended by a local friend, promising authentic Moroccan flavors. Kian was particularly excited, having developed a taste for Moroccan pancakes during our stay. The cozy ambiance of the restaurant, combined with the delicious food, set the perfect tone for our explorations. Greta, ever the planner, reviewed our itinerary, ensuring we wouldn't miss a thing. I, of course, was charged with capturing every moment through my lens.


Experience authentic Moroccan breakfasts at La Breva in Fes – where tradition meets flavor in every bite.

Fueled and ready, our first stop was Bab Dekkakin, a gate that stands as a formidable entrance between the Old and New Mechouar. Its historical significance was palpable, dating back to the Marinid dynasty. As we stood before it, I imagined the countless dignitaries and petitioners who had passed through its arches over the centuries. Kian, ever curious, peppered me with questions about the gate's purpose and history, which I did my best to answer, drawing from my trusty guidebook. Greta pointed out the intricate details of the architecture, noting the blend of styles that reflected the city's diverse influences.

We learned that Bab Dekkakin, meaning 'Gate of the Benches,' once had benches where people waited for an audience with the Palace. Restored in 1884, it now serves as a backdrop for performances during the World Sacred Music Festival. The imposing towers flanking the gate, believed to be original from the Marinid period, added to its grandeur. It's fascinating how this gate has evolved from a functional entrance to a cultural landmark.


Explore Bab Dekkakin, the historical gateway to Fes's vibrant medina, where culture, craftsmanship, and tradition come alive.

From the stoic presence of Bab Dekkakin, we ventured into the bustling heart of Place Rcif. The square was alive with activity, a vibrant tapestry of sights, sounds, and smells. Artisans displayed their crafts, from intricate pottery to colorful textiles, each piece telling a story of the region's rich heritage. The aroma of Moroccan cuisine filled the air, tempting us with promises of tagine and couscous. I bartered for a small, hand-painted bowl, a memento of our time in Fes. Kian was captivated by a snake charmer, his eyes wide with a mixture of fear and fascination. Greta, always keen to immerse herself in local culture, struck up a conversation with a vendor selling spices, learning about their uses in traditional Moroccan dishes.

Place Rcif, I discovered, is more than just a square; it's a dynamic hub where the essence of Moroccan culture comes alive. It's one of the few places in the medina accessible by car, making it a vital artery for the city. The R'cif Mosque, with its towering minaret, overlooks the square, a constant reminder of the city's spiritual heart. We paused to admire the mosque's intricate geometric patterns and the ornate wooden canopy above its main gate, a testament to the city's architectural legacy.


Explore the vibrant community of Place Rcif in Fes, a cultural hub full of local crafts, delicious cuisine, and rich traditions waiting to be discovered.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the unexpected corners of a city, where history and modernity intertwine.

Lunch at Restaurant Darna fes was a delightful culinary experience. The menu offered a range of options, including traditional Moroccan cuisine and vegan dishes. I opted for a tagine, savoring the rich flavors of the slow-cooked stew. Greta chose a vegetarian option, while Kian, predictably, went for the chicken couscous. The restaurant's ambiance was warm and inviting, making us feel right at home. It was a perfect respite from the bustling streets outside.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors at Restaurant Darna Fes - a family-friendly bistro offering delightful vegan options.

Our afternoon took us to the Puertas del Palacio Real de Fez, the gates of the Royal Palace. These gates, dating back to the 20th century, are a stunning display of Moroccan craftsmanship. The intricate mosaics, carved cedar wood, and gilded bronze doors covered in geometric motifs were a sight to behold. Each gate, I learned, represents a day of the week and a level of the monarchy, a symbolic representation of the kingdom's power and history. The palace itself dates back to 1276, when Fes el-Jdid was founded. Although we couldn't enter the palace, the grandeur of the gates was enough to leave a lasting impression.


Discover the grandeur of the Puertas del Palacio Real de Fez, a stunning representation of Moroccan artistry and royal history in the heart of Fez.

As the day drew to a close, we sought a different kind of experience at Rooftop Nour Plazza. The bar offered stunning views of the city, a modern oasis amidst the ancient landscape. Sipping on mint tea, we watched as the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over Fes. Kian, tired from our day of exploring, dozed off in Greta's arms. I took the opportunity to reflect on the day's adventures, feeling grateful for the opportunity to share these experiences with my family. The Rooftop Nour Plazza is part of the Nour Plazza Hotel, which features a rooftop pool and serves French, Italian, and Moroccan cuisine.


Discover Rooftop Nour Plazza, a vibrant bar in Fes offering stunning views and a taste of Moroccan hospitality in the heart of the city.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Alaouites Garden, Bab Riafa, and Dar al-Magana (Water Clock), continuing our journey through Fes's historical and cultural landscape. I'm particularly looking forward to seeing the Water Clock, a unique piece of engineering that I've read so much about.

Fes continues to surprise and delight us, revealing new layers of its rich history and vibrant culture with each passing day. It's a city that engages all the senses, leaving an indelible mark on the soul. As we head back to our accommodation, I can't help but feel a sense of anticipation for what tomorrow will bring.

The day ended with a simple yet satisfying dinner at Zagora. The restaurant, known for its haute French cuisine, provided a delightful contrast to the traditional Moroccan meals we had been enjoying. The cozy setting and live music created a perfect atmosphere for a relaxing evening. Kian, despite his earlier nap, was surprisingly energetic, dancing along to the music and charming the staff with his infectious enthusiasm. Greta and I savored the exquisite dishes, appreciating the blend of culinary artistry and refined dining. Zagora is known for offering international cuisine and seasonal home dishes, with a chef boasting over 40 years of experience. It was a fitting end to a day filled with diverse experiences and cultural immersion.


Experience exquisite haute French cuisine at Zagora in Fes - where culinary artistry meets Moroccan hospitality.

The memories of today—the majestic gates, the vibrant square, the serene rooftop, and the exquisite dinner—will undoubtedly stay with us long after we leave Fes. It's these moments of shared experience that make traveling with family so rewarding, creating bonds that transcend borders and cultures. And as I drift off to sleep, I can't help but wonder what new adventures await us tomorrow, as we continue our exploration of this enchanting city.