A Family Cultural Odyssey in Fes

A Day of Discovery in Fes

Today, Fes revealed more of its captivating layers to my family and me. It was a day of contrasts, from the organized structure of Fes El Jdid to the panoramic vistas from a historic fortress and the solemn echoes within ancient city gates. Each location offered a unique perspective on the city's rich history and vibrant culture, deepening our appreciation for this Moroccan treasure. As a restorer of historical musical instruments, I find myself particularly drawn to the preservation of history, and Fes certainly doesn't disappoint.


Discover the rich history and vibrant culture of Fes El Jdid, where ancient architecture and local traditions intertwine in a Moroccan treasure.

Our morning began with a hearty breakfast at Mom's touch. The rooftop seating offered a delightful view of the city as it slowly awakened. Kian was particularly fond of his smoothie, while Greta and I enjoyed the traditional Moroccan tea. The friendly staff and the cozy atmosphere made it a perfect start to our day.

We then ventured into Fes El Jdid, the 'New Fes,' which, despite its name, dates back to the 13th century. This part of the city, founded by the Marinid dynasty, presents a fascinating contrast to the sprawling, maze-like Medina of Fes el Bali. As we wandered through its grand gates and narrow streets, I couldn't help but notice the blend of Moroccan and Andalusian architectural styles. It felt like stepping into a different era, one where the city's administrative and royal life took center stage.

The Mellah, the old Jewish quarter within Fes El Jdid, was particularly striking. Its unique architecture, with its synagogues and distinct homes, spoke volumes about the Jewish community's historical presence in Fes. Though I've seen Jewish Quarters in Europe, the Mellah had a distinct Moroccan flavor, a testament to the cultural fusion that defines this country. We didn't get to explore the Great Mosque, but perhaps we'll have time to check it out later during our stay.

Traveling is not just about seeing new places; it's about experiencing new perspectives.

After immersing ourselves in the structured beauty of Fes El Jdid, we took a taxi to Borj Sud, a fortress perched on the hills overlooking the city. Built in the late 16th century by the Saadian dynasty, Borj Sud, or South Tower, was initially constructed to keep the Fes population in check. It was amazing to learn that its design was modeled after Portuguese forts, a result of Morocco's battles against Portuguese invaders. Standing on the ramparts, the panoramic view of Fes el Bali was breathtaking. The sprawling Medina, with its countless rooftops and minarets, stretched out before us like a living map. It was easy to imagine how this vantage point was strategically important, offering a commanding view of the city and its surroundings. Greta, with her librarian's eye for detail, pointed out various historical landmarks, while Kian was simply thrilled to be so high up, pretending to be a soldier guarding the city.


Explore Borj Sud in Fes, Morocco - a historical landmark that offers stunning views and a glimpse into the region's rich past.

It was fascinating to discover that Borj Sud was built with the help of European prisoners captured during the Battle of the Three Kings in 1578. As someone who appreciates the intricacies of historical craftsmanship, I couldn't help but wonder about the stories of these men and how their skills contributed to this imposing structure. The fort itself, with its sturdy walls and strategic design, is an architectural marvel, a testament to the military engineering of the time. I made a mental note to research more about the Saadian dynasty and their influence on Fes's architecture.

For lunch, we decided to try Restaurant Boujloud, drawn in by its reputation for traditional Moroccan cuisine. The restaurant was bustling with locals and tourists alike, and the aroma of spices filled the air. We ordered a tagine and couscous, both of which were delicious and satisfying. Kian, surprisingly, enjoyed the tagine, devouring the tender meat and vegetables with gusto. Greta appreciated the subtle nuances of the couscous, noting the delicate balance of flavors. Dining here felt like a truly authentic Moroccan experience.


Discover the flavors of Morocco at Restaurant Boujloud in Fes – where tradition meets modern cuisine in a cozy setting.

Our afternoon took us to Bab Mahrouk, one of the main western gates of Fes el Bali. Dating back to 1204, this gate has a rich and somewhat grim history. Originally known as Bab ash-Shari'a, or Gate of Justice, it was later renamed Bab Mahrouk, meaning Gate of the Burnt, after a rebel's body was burned here. It's a sobering reminder of the city's turbulent past. As we stood before the gate, I could almost hear the echoes of history, the stories of rebellion and punishment that unfolded within these walls.


Discover the historical beauty of Bab Mahrouk, a stunning gateway that connects you to the rich heritage of Fes, Morocco.

Bab Mahrouk's architecture is typical of medieval fortified gates, with a bent entrance designed to thwart invaders. The large horseshoe arch and the shallow rectangular frame are impressive, testaments to the craftsmanship of the Almohad period. I learned that heads of executed rebels were once displayed here, a practice that continued well into the 20th century. It's a stark contrast to the bustling square outside the gate today, where people go about their daily lives, seemingly oblivious to the dark history beneath their feet.

West of the gate lies the historic Bab Mahrouk Cemetery, one of the main burial grounds of the old city. It's a place of peace and reflection, where the mausoleum of the 12th-century Islamic scholar Abu Bakr ibn al-Arabi stands. Legend has it that Muhammad XII, the last ruler of Granada, may also be buried here, though this remains unconfirmed. I found myself drawn to this cemetery, a place where history and mortality intertwine.

Before dinner, we indulged in a bit of shopping at La Petite Maison Berbere. I was immediately captivated by the vibrant colors and intricate designs of the rugs. Each rug seemed to tell a story, reflecting the artistry and skill of the local artisans. The staff was incredibly knowledgeable, sharing the history and cultural significance of each piece. Greta, with her keen eye for aesthetics, helped me select a beautiful rug that will undoubtedly become a cherished memento of our trip. Kian, of course, was more interested in running around the store, but even he couldn't help but be mesmerized by the colorful patterns.


Explore the exquisite craftsmanship at La Petite Maison Berbere, the premier rug store in Fes, showcasing Morocco's rich textile heritage.

We ended our day with dinner at Palais La Médina, a restaurant known for its authentic Moroccan cuisine and elegant setting. The restaurant's interior was stunning, adorned with ornate tile work and warm lighting. The menu featured a wide array of traditional dishes, and we opted for a tagine and a pastilla, both of which were exquisite. The flavors were rich and complex, a testament to the culinary heritage of Morocco. As we savored our meal, we were treated to traditional Moroccan music, which added to the magical ambiance. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration and discovery.


Discover exquisite Moroccan cuisine at Palais La Médina - a culinary gem in Fes offering authentic flavors and enchanting ambiance.

Tonight, as I sit down to write, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences we've had today. Fes is a city that truly captivates the senses, offering a glimpse into a rich and complex history. As we prepare for tomorrow, when we plan to visit Bab Dekkakin, Place Rcif, and the Royal Palace gates, I am eager to uncover more of Fes's hidden treasures. I'm also looking forward to experiencing the Rooftop Nour Plazza, hopefully with a refreshing drink in hand.

The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page. – Saint Augustine

Until tomorrow,
Amir

P.S. I really need to remember to pack a portable charger next time. My camera almost died on me today!