Family Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Farewell, Sacred Trails

Today marks the end of our family's pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo. It's a bittersweet moment, filled with reflection on the incredible experiences we've shared and a touch of sadness that our time on these ancient trails has come to a close. This journey has been more than just a vacation; it's been a deep dive into Japanese culture, spirituality, and natural beauty.

Our final day began with a delightful breakfast at Sansaro Cafe. The cozy atmosphere and Ms. Uzawa's warm hospitality made it a perfect start to the day. Kian especially loved playing with Haru, the cafe's friendly dog, while Greta and I enjoyed the mountain-side view. The vegetarian options were amazing, and even I, a dedicated meat-eater, found myself thoroughly satisfied. It was the perfect fuel for our morning adventure.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

Next on the agenda was tackling the Koyazaka Slope. This section of the Kumano Kodo, part of the World Heritage pilgrimage route, promised a blend of coastal scenery and historical intrigue. As we set off, the air was fresh and the sun was beginning to peek through the trees. The trail led us along the Ojigahama Coast, offering breathtaking views of the Kumano-nada Sea. The moss-covered cobblestones added a touch of ancient charm to the path, making it easy to imagine the countless pilgrims who had walked this way before us.


Discover the enchanting Koyazaka Slope in Wakayama, a captivating hiking area rich in history and breathtaking views, perfect for all nature lovers.

The Koyazaka Slope wasn't particularly challenging, which was a relief after some of the more strenuous hikes we've undertaken. It allowed us to focus on the beauty around us: the vibrant flora, the sound of the waves crashing against the shore, and the occasional glimpse of the ocean through the trees. We even spotted some stone Jizo statues, small deities believed to protect travelers and children, a comforting reminder of the path's spiritual significance.

Each day you wake on the Kumano Kodo you are reborn, a layer lighter in mind and body, refreshed and ready for the next stage of your walking journey.

For lunch, we stopped at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. This was a truly unique experience. Yunomine Onsen is one of the oldest hot springs in Japan, and the chance to have lunch in such a historic location was something special. The food was simple but delicious, and the atmosphere was wonderfully authentic. We savored the flavors while soaking in the ambiance of this ancient onsen town.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.

After lunch, we took some time to explore Yunomine Onsen itself. The *onsen* is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is said to be one of the oldest hot springs in Japan. We learned about Tsubo-yu, a small bathing cabin, which is one of the few *onsen* in the world that you can bathe in that is also a world heritage site. We didn't have time for a proper soak, but we dipped our feet in the communal foot bath, enjoying the warmth and the therapeutic waters. It was a perfect way to soothe our tired muscles after days of hiking.

As the day drew to a close, we decided to indulge in a final Kumano Kodo culinary experience: dinner at Hinoki Steak House. This restaurant, known for its Kumano beef, was a delightful treat. The juicy hamburgers and steak were cooked to perfection, and we savored every bite. It was a fitting end to our gastronomic journey through the region.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

To cap off our final night, we ventured to the Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table. This unique establishment combines a winery, guest house, and Italian restaurant, offering a truly special experience. Giovanni dal Bosco, the owner and chef, is a fascinating character who came to Japan from Italy and created his own balsamic vinegar and wine. Although we didn't stay at the guest house, we enjoyed a glass of his wine at the bar, reflecting on our Kumano Kodo adventure.


Discover the perfect blend of relaxation, Italian cuisine, and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House in Wakayama.

The Kumano Winery Guest House is located in a renovated 90-year-old farmhouse and is surrounded by vineyards, and even has goats. Dal Chef’s Table was even listed in the Michelin Guide in 2022. I made a mental note to return here, perhaps on a solo trip, to fully immerse myself in the Italian culinary experience.

Looking back on our 11-day pilgrimage, I'm filled with gratitude for the experiences we've shared as a family. We've hiked through ancient forests, visited sacred shrines, and connected with the local culture in a way that wouldn't have been possible on a typical vacation. Kian has learned about Japanese history and traditions, Greta has indulged her love of literature and art, and I've found a sense of peace and connection to nature that I didn't know I was missing.

This trip also made me realize how much I missed playing my *tar*. I made a promise to myself to dedicate more time to my music once we returned home to Bamberg.

Of course, no trip is without its hiccups. I'm still kicking myself for forgetting the travel adapter and sunscreen. But even these minor inconveniences have become part of our story, adding a touch of humor to our memories.

As we prepare to leave Japan, I know that the Kumano Kodo will stay with us long after we've returned to Germany. The lessons we've learned, the bonds we've strengthened, and the memories we've created will be cherished for a lifetime. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a pilgrimage route; it's a journey of self-discovery, cultural immersion, and family connection.

And with that, our Kumano Kodo adventure comes to an end. It's time to bid farewell to these sacred trails and carry the spirit of the pilgrimage with us as we journey back home.

I am already looking forward to planning our next adventure as a family. Perhaps we will explore more of Japan, or maybe we will venture to a different corner of the world. Whatever we decide, I know that it will be an experience filled with discovery, connection, and unforgettable moments.

For now, *Khoda Hafez* (May God be with you).