Family Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Finding Stillness on the Kumano Kodo

Today marked a poignant moment in our Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. It was a day of walking the ancient Nakahechi route, a path once trod by emperors and now by my own family and me. As we prepare for our final day, I find myself reflecting on the journey, the challenges, and the profound sense of peace that has settled over us.

Our day began with breakfast at the Fushiogami Teahouse. The simple, traditional Japanese breakfast was the perfect fuel for the day's walk. The air was crisp, carrying the scent of the surrounding forests, a blend of cypress and damp earth that invigorated the senses. Kian, surprisingly, was eager to start, perhaps sensing the significance of our penultimate day. Greta and I exchanged knowing glances, appreciating this shared experience that was slowly weaving itself into the fabric of our family history. The Nakahechi route is also known as the Imperial Route, which is the most popular route for pilgrims from western Japan.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

As we set off, the trail unfolded before us, a ribbon of ancient stones winding through a landscape that seemed to breathe with history. The Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route is more than just a hike; it's a journey through time, a connection to the countless souls who have sought solace and enlightenment on these paths. The interplay of sunlight and shadow through the dense canopy created an ethereal atmosphere, enhancing the spiritual ambiance of the pilgrimage. It was easy to imagine the emperors of old, undertaking this very same journey, seeking connection with the divine. The well-maintained trail threads its way through deep valleys, mountains, and small villages.


Explore the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route, a UNESCO World Heritage site, for a blend of breathtaking nature and rich cultural heritage in Wakayama, Japan.

Our walk along the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route was a meditative experience. The path was challenging, with steep inclines and uneven terrain, but the physical exertion only seemed to deepen our connection to the surroundings. I found myself falling into a rhythm, my footsteps echoing the ancient cadence of pilgrims past. Greta, ever the observant librarian, pointed out various flora and fauna, sharing tidbits of local folklore that added layers of meaning to our trek. Kian, with his boundless energy, scampered ahead, occasionally stopping to examine a curious insect or a uniquely shaped stone. The Nakahechi route is the only one connecting all three Grand Shrines of the Kumano Kodo, offering a unique cultural and spiritual experience.

We stopped for lunch at Tororoya, a charming restaurant known for its local cuisine. The meal was simple yet satisfying, a welcome respite after hours of hiking. As we ate, we chatted with fellow pilgrims, sharing stories and experiences. It was heartwarming to connect with others who were drawn to this sacred path, each with their own reasons for undertaking the journey. We had a great meal at Tororoya restaurant.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

The beauty of the Kumano Kodo lies not just in its stunning landscapes, but in its ability to foster introspection and a profound sense of connection.

In the afternoon, we visited the Kumano Kodo Information Center. It provided valuable insights into the history and significance of the pilgrimage route. The center deepened our understanding of the cultural heritage we were immersed in. I picked up a detailed map, tracing our progress and marveling at the vastness of the Kumano Kodo network. Greta found a book on the local flora, adding to her already extensive knowledge. Kian, surprisingly engaged, watched a short film about the legends of the Kumano Kodo, his eyes wide with fascination. It aims to revitalizing the neighboring areas by giving information on Kumano Kodo and promoting interchange with locals.


Explore Kumano Kodo Information Center, your essential stop for discovering Japan's sacred pilgrimage trails and rich cultural heritage.

As evening approached, we made our way to Hinoki Steak House for dinner. It was a delightful contrast to our traditional meals, offering a taste of modern Japanese cuisine. The steak was cooked to perfection, a fitting reward for our day's efforts. Kian, usually a picky eater, devoured his portion with gusto, declaring it the best meal he had ever had. Greta and I savored the moment, grateful for the simple pleasures that punctuated our pilgrimage. Some reviews state that the chef is super friendly and professional.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

The air was filled with a sense of accomplishment and contentment. We talked about our favorite moments of the day, the challenges we had overcome, and the lessons we had learned. The Kumano Kodo had a way of stripping away the superficial, leaving behind a sense of clarity and purpose. It was a reminder that the most meaningful journeys are often the ones that push us beyond our comfort zones.

As I sit here now, penning these thoughts, I am filled with a sense of gratitude. The Kumano Kodo has been more than just a trip; it has been a transformative experience, a journey of self-discovery that has brought my family closer together. Tomorrow, we complete our pilgrimage, walking the Koyazaka Slope. I know that the memories and lessons of the Kumano Kodo will stay with us long after we leave these sacred trails. I am already anticipating the serenity of the Koyazaka Slope, a fitting conclusion to our spiritual journey.

Tomorrow, our final day, we plan to visit Koyazaka Slope. After breakfast at Sansaro Cafe, we will immerse ourselves in the tranquil beauty of the slope, reflecting on our journey and the spiritual insights we've gained. For lunch, we'll visit Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, savoring the local flavors and soaking in the serene atmosphere of this ancient hot spring. In the evening, we'll return to Hinoki Steak House for a farewell dinner, celebrating our pilgrimage with a delicious meal. Finally, we'll unwind at Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table, savoring local wines and reflecting on our experiences. This pilgrimage has enriched our lives in ways I never imagined. It has deepened our connection to each other and to the world around us. As we prepare to return to our lives in Bamberg, I know that we will carry the spirit of the Kumano Kodo with us, a reminder to seek peace, embrace simplicity, and cherish the bonds of family.

The Nakahechi route is the most popular route for pilgrims from western Japan. Starting in the 10th century, the Nakahechi route was extensively used by the imperial family on pilgrimage from Kyoto. This trail has traditional lodgings in isolated villages along the way and is excellent for multi-day walks.

I am also mindful of the essentials I forgot – the travel adapter and sunscreen. A small oversight, but one that taught me the importance of preparation, both physical and mental, for any journey. As a restorer of historical musical instruments, I am accustomed to meticulous detail, but travel often throws unexpected challenges your way. This pilgrimage has reinforced the need to be adaptable, resourceful, and open to the unexpected.

As I prepare for our final day, I am filled with a sense of anticipation and gratitude. The Kumano Kodo has been a transformative experience, a journey that has enriched our lives in ways I never imagined. I look forward to sharing our final reflections tomorrow, as we bid farewell to this sacred path and carry its spirit with us on our journey home.