Family Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Whispers of the Ancients

Today was a day of deep reflection and connection, not just with the landscape of Kumano Kodo, but with its soul. Leaving behind the peaceful embrace of Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, Greta, Kian and I ventured further into the heart of this ancient pilgrimage route, eager to absorb the history and spirituality woven into its very fabric. It's remarkable how a place can resonate with you, stirring emotions and thoughts you didn't know you had.

Our first stop was Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a striking vermilion shrine nestled near the mouth of the Kumano-gawa River. The continuous flow of water from the Kii Mountains into the Pacific Ocean seemed to mirror the unending stream of pilgrims who have visited this sacred site for centuries. The shrine's vibrant color was a stark contrast to the surrounding greenery, creating a visual feast that was both calming and invigorating. As we approached, I couldn't help but feel a sense of anticipation, a feeling that we were about to step into a place of immense significance.


Explore Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a revered Shinto shrine in Wakayama, where ancient traditions and stunning landscapes converge for an unforgettable experience.
We took our time wandering through the shrine grounds, admiring the intricate details of the architecture and the peaceful atmosphere. Kian was especially fascinated by the ancient Nagi tree, its leaves said to bring safety at sea and family harmony. Greta, ever the historian, read aloud the inscriptions on the stone lanterns, sharing stories of emperors and samurai who had once stood where we were standing. I found myself drawn to the quiet corners of the shrine, where I could sit and listen to the wind rustling through the trees, a sound that seemed to carry the whispers of the past.

The journey through Kumano Kodo is not just a walk through nature, but a passage through time and spirit.

After soaking in the serene ambiance of Kumano Hayatama Taisha, we headed towards Oyunohara, the original location of the Kumano Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine. It's hard to imagine the devastation caused by the flood of 1889 that led to the shrine's relocation, but even now, the area exudes a powerful sense of history. The towering torii gate, the largest in Japan, marks the entrance to this sacred ground, a symbolic division between the secular and spiritual worlds. Standing beneath it, I felt dwarfed not just by its size, but by the weight of centuries of prayers and pilgrimages.


Discover the spiritual essence of Japan at Oyunohara, a breathtaking Shinto shrine and historical landmark nestled in the heart of Wakayama's Kumano Kodo.
Oyunohara is located at the confluence of the Otonashi and Kumano Rivers. Legend says that the Kumano deities descended into the branches of a giant oak tree in this clearing. Though the original shrine buildings are gone, two small stone shrines remain, serving as silent witnesses to the past. We walked around the expansive, raised earthen platform where the pavilions once stood, trying to picture the grandeur of the original complex. The sheer scale of the area gave us a sense of the importance of this site to generations of pilgrims.

For lunch, we stopped at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. It was a humble place, but the food was hearty and satisfying. I ordered curry rice, while Greta opted for a set meal featuring local vegetables. Kian, as always, was happy with a simple bowl of udon. The shop had a cozy, communal atmosphere, and we enjoyed chatting with some of the other diners, swapping stories and travel tips. It was a reminder that even in the midst of a personal pilgrimage, there's always room for connection and shared experiences.

In the late afternoon, after our time at Oyunohara, we found ourselves looking for a place to have a late lunch, early dinner. We decided to try Takehara. The restaurant is known for its tuna dishes, and since we were near the coast, it seemed like the perfect opportunity to sample some fresh seafood. Greta and I shared a tuna sashimi platter, while Kian enjoyed a grilled tuna steak. The fish was incredibly fresh, and the flavors were simple but exquisite. It was a delightful culinary experience that perfectly complemented the day's spiritual journey.


Experience authentic Japanese seafood in Takehara – where fresh ingredients meet exquisite culinary craftsmanship.
As the day drew to a close, we sought a relaxing place to unwind. We ventured to Wine Kumano, a local bar known for its selection of natural wines. I appreciated the chance to relax with a glass of local wine, reflecting on the day's experiences. Greta enjoyed a craft beer, while Kian sipped on a juice box. The bar had a cozy, intimate atmosphere, and the owner was friendly and welcoming. It was the perfect way to end a day filled with exploration and reflection.


Experience authentic local cuisine and exquisite wines at Wine Kumano, a must-visit restaurant in Wakayama for food and wine lovers.
For dinner, we chose Kakinoate, enticed by its reputation for persimmon leaf sushi. This local delicacy was a unique and flavorful experience, the slight sweetness of the persimmon leaf complementing the savory sushi rice and fish. Kian was a bit hesitant at first, but he ended up enjoying the novelty of it. The restaurant was located near the torii gate of Kumano Hayatama Taisha, bringing our day full circle.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Kakinoate in Shingu, where every dish tells a story of tradition and flavor.
Tomorrow, we plan to visit Seiganto-ji Temple, another site steeped in history and natural beauty. I am eager to see the stunning Nachi Falls and learn more about the syncretic relationship between Shintoism and Buddhism in this region. I am also looking forward to a hearty breakfast at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan and perhaps a delicious steak at Hinoki Steak House for lunch. I am curious to see what other treasures await us on this journey through Kumano Kodo.

As I sit here, writing this entry, I feel a profound sense of gratitude for the experiences of today. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a pilgrimage route; it's a journey into the heart of Japan's spiritual and cultural heritage. And I am so glad to be sharing it with my family.

I'm also thankful that Greta reminded me to buy a travel adapter, which I had forgotten. It's the little things that make a big difference when traveling, especially with family. Now, if you'll excuse me, I think I'll try to learn a few phrases in Japanese before tomorrow.