Family Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

A Day of Rejuvenation

Today was a day of contrasts, blending the ancient with the modern, the spiritual with the gustatory. As we continue our family pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo, each day brings new experiences that deepen our appreciation for this remarkable region. It's hard to believe we're already on Day 6; time really does fly when you're immersed in such a rich tapestry of culture and natural beauty.

Our morning began with a hearty breakfast at Watarase onsen cafe. The traditional Japanese fare fueled us up for the day's adventures. Greta especially enjoyed the perfectly cooked fish, while Kian devoured his rice with gusto. I savored the miso soup, a comforting staple that always reminds me of my mother’s cooking back in Khowrzuq. It’s funny how certain flavors can transport you across continents and decades. After breakfast, we prepared for what promised to be a highlight of our trip: a visit to Tsubo-yu.


Discover the tranquility of Tsubo-yu, a historic onsen in Wakayama, perfect for relaxation and cultural immersion on your Japanese adventure.

Tsubo-yu is no ordinary onsen; it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site and Japan’s oldest hot spring. Located in Yunomine Onsen, this tiny bathhouse is legendary for its healing waters and its unique feature of changing color throughout the day. The anticipation was palpable as we approached the small stone hut that houses Tsubo-yu. Only two people can bathe at a time, so we took turns soaking in the mystical waters.

As I lowered myself into the bath, I couldn't help but feel a sense of reverence. The water was warm and soothing, and the air was filled with a faint, earthy aroma. It’s incredible to think that emperors and monks have sought solace in these very waters for centuries. The experience was intimate and profound, a moment of quiet reflection amidst our journey. Kian was fascinated by the changing colors of the water, asking endless questions about why it happened. Greta simply closed her eyes and let the healing waters work their magic.

The true journey lies not in reaching the destination, but in the experiences gathered along the way.

After our rejuvenating soak, we explored the small village of Yunomine Onsen. The atmosphere was serene and peaceful, a welcome respite from the busier towns we had passed through. We learned about the history of the onsen and its connection to the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. It's amazing how this small town has played such an integral role in the spiritual journey of countless pilgrims over the centuries.

For lunch, we stopped at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan, a visitor center with a restaurant. We enjoyed a delicious and satisfying meal of local specialties, including mehari-zushi (rice wrapped in pickled mustard leaves), a regional favorite. It was the perfect fuel for our afternoon activity: a visit to Oyunohara.


Discover Oyunohara, a sacred site in Wakayama, Japan, blending history and spirituality amidst stunning landscapes and rich cultural heritage.

Oyunohara is the original location of Kumano Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine. In 1889, a devastating flood destroyed the shrine, and it was subsequently moved to its present location. Today, Oyunohara is marked by the Otorii, the largest torii gate in Japan. Standing beneath this massive gate, I felt a sense of awe and humility. It’s a powerful symbol of the division between the secular and the spiritual worlds. We walked around the expansive grounds, imagining what the shrine must have looked like in its former glory. The sheer scale of the area is impressive, a testament to the importance of this site in Japanese religious history.

Before dinner, we took some time to shop for souvenirs at Oyunohara. Kian picked out a small wooden carving of Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow that is a symbol of Kumano. Greta found a beautiful piece of Kumano washi paper, a traditional craft of the region. I purchased a small bottle of local sake to enjoy back at our accommodation.

As evening approached, we made our way to Hinoki Steak House for dinner. After days of traditional Japanese cuisine, we were all craving something a bit different. Hinoki Steak House did not disappoint. The restaurant is known for its Kumano beef, and we all opted for steak. The meat was tender and flavorful, cooked to perfection. It was a delightful change of pace and a satisfying end to a long day.

Reflecting on the day, I am struck by the seamless blend of history, spirituality, and natural beauty that defines the Kumano Kodo. From the healing waters of Tsubo-yu to the grandeur of Oyunohara and the culinary delights of Hinoki Steak House, today was a feast for the senses and the soul. As we prepare for tomorrow's adventure to Kamikura Shrine , I am filled with anticipation for what new discoveries await us. I'm particularly looking forward to visiting Wine Kumano in the evening – a perfect way to unwind after another day of exploring. I'm also mindful to pack the sunscreen I forgot; the May sun can be deceptively strong. Good thing I remembered my comfortable hiking shoes! [TripEssentials]

The weather today was pleasant, with clear skies and temperatures hovering around 70°F. It seems May is indeed a lovely time to visit, with warmer and longer days. We were fortunate to have avoided the rain that is also common in this region.

As I write this, Kian is already fast asleep, dreaming of three-legged crows and giant torii gates. Greta is reading a book about the history of the Kumano Kodo, eager to learn more about the region we are traversing. I am sipping my sake, savoring the memories of the day and looking forward to what tomorrow will bring. This family pilgrimage is proving to be an unforgettable experience, one that will stay with us long after we return to Bamberg. I am so grateful to be sharing this journey with my wife and son, creating memories that will last a lifetime. I can't wait to share more of our adventures with you all soon!

Tomorrow, we venture onward, further into the heart of the Kumano Kodo, seeking new experiences and deeper connections to this sacred land. Until then, sayonara!