Family Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Reaching for the Heavens

Today was a day of both physical challenge and spiritual reward. The Kumano Kodo has a way of testing you, not just physically with its steep climbs and winding paths, but also emotionally and spiritually, urging you to reflect on your journey, both literal and metaphorical. Today was no exception, as we ventured to Kamikura Shrine, a site of immense historical and spiritual significance.


Experience the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kamikura Shrine, a treasured Shinto site in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Fushiogami Teahouse. The quaint teahouse, nestled in the scenic region of Tanabe, Wakayama, was the perfect start to the day. The simple, traditional Japanese breakfast set us up perfectly for the day’s adventures. Kian was particularly fond of the sweet omelette, while Greta enjoyed the delicate flavors of the miso soup. I savored the strong, freshly brewed green tea, a perfect complement to the serene morning atmosphere. It reminded me of mornings back in Khowrzuq, sharing tea with my family before a day of work. It’s amazing how certain flavors can transport you across time and continents.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

With renewed energy, we set off towards Kamikura Shrine. The shrine is known as the place where the Kumano deities first descended to earth. The climb to the shrine is not for the faint of heart, involving ascending 538 steep stone steps. As someone who enjoys hiking, I was eager to tackle the ascent. Greta, ever the historian, was excited to explore such an ancient and sacred site. Kian, with the boundless energy of a seven-year-old, saw it as an opportunity for an adventure. We took our time, pausing occasionally to catch our breath and admire the views. The air was fresh and clean, filled with the scent of pine and damp earth. The steps, worn smooth by centuries of pilgrims, felt like a tangible connection to the past.

The journey to Kamikura Shrine is a testament to the enduring power of faith, a climb that rewards the soul with breathtaking views and a profound sense of connection to the divine.

Reaching the top, we were rewarded with a breathtaking panorama of the Shingu area and the Kumano-nada Sea. The view was simply stunning, a sweeping vista of rolling hills, verdant forests, and the sparkling expanse of the ocean. It was easy to see why this place was considered sacred. The Gotobiki-Iwa, a massive rock at the summit, is revered as the dwelling place of one of the shrine's deities. It’s an awe-inspiring sight, a testament to the power and beauty of nature. We spent some time exploring the shrine, taking in the peaceful atmosphere and the stunning views. Kian, of course, was fascinated by the Gotobiki-Iwa, scrambling around its base and asking endless questions about its origins and significance. Greta took photographs, capturing the beauty of the landscape and the intricate details of the shrine.

After descending from Kamikura Shrine, we were ready for lunch. We headed to Tororoya, a restaurant known for its delicious set meals. The restaurant was cozy and welcoming, with a rustic charm that perfectly complemented the surrounding landscape. We ordered a variety of dishes, including local specialties like *meharizushi* (rice wrapped in pickled mustard leaf) and *kakinoha-zushi* (sushi wrapped in persimmon leaves). The food was simple but delicious, made with fresh, local ingredients. Kian, surprisingly, enjoyed the *meharizushi*, while Greta was particularly fond of the *kakinoha-zushi*. I savored the flavors of the region, each bite a taste of Kumano’s rich culinary heritage. It struck me how food, like music, can be such a powerful expression of culture and identity.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

In the late afternoon, with our legs weary but our spirits high, we decided to explore the town of Shingu. We stumbled upon Wine Kumano, a local bar that seemed like the perfect place to unwind after a day of hiking and exploring. The bar had a cozy, intimate atmosphere, with a good selection of local wines and spirits. I opted for a glass of locally produced sake, while Greta chose a glass of *umeshu* (plum wine). Kian, of course, was happy with a simple glass of orange juice. As we sipped our drinks, we chatted about the day’s adventures, sharing our favorite moments and reflecting on the spiritual significance of Kamikura Shrine.


Experience authentic local cuisine and exquisite wines at Wine Kumano, a must-visit restaurant in Wakayama for food and wine lovers.

For dinner, we decided to try Hinoki Steak House, a restaurant known for its Kumano beef. The restaurant had a classic, old-school charm, with comfortable booths and friendly service. We ordered a selection of steaks and hamburgers, all made with locally sourced Kumano beef. The meat was incredibly tender and flavorful, cooked to perfection. Kian devoured his hamburger with gusto, while Greta and I savored the rich, complex flavors of our steaks. It was a fitting end to a day of culinary exploration, a celebration of Kumano’s gastronomic delights.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

As the day drew to a close, I found myself reflecting on the journey so far. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it’s a spiritual pilgrimage, a journey of self-discovery and connection to the natural world. Each day brings new challenges, new experiences, and new insights. And as we prepare for tomorrow’s trek across the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing, I feel a sense of anticipation and excitement, eager to see what new adventures await us on the path ahead. We plan to have breakfast at Sansaro Cafe before heading out. I also intend to buy a souvenir at the Kumano Hayatama Taisha shop.

The Kumano Kodo has a way of stripping away the superficial layers of modern life, revealing the simple truths that lie beneath. It’s a reminder that the most important things in life are not material possessions or worldly achievements, but rather the connections we make with others, the beauty we find in nature, and the sense of purpose that guides us on our journey. And as I drift off to sleep, I feel grateful for the opportunity to share this experience with my family, to walk in the footsteps of ancient pilgrims, and to discover the spiritual heart of Japan.

Tomorrow we will be traversing the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing, and I am excited to see what adventures await us there.

I must remember to buy a travel adapter, as I forgot it at home and am running low on battery [].