Andrea's Artistic Exploration on Naoshima Island

Art, Baths, and Bliss: Another Day on Naoshima

As the sun began its gentle ascent, painting the sky with hues of orange and pink, I knew today would be another remarkable chapter in my Naoshima adventure. Immersing myself in the island's art scene, punctuated by unique cultural experiences, has been nothing short of transformative. Today promised a blend of communal art, historical reflection, and sensory exploration.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at APRON CAFE. It's a charming spot, and I was eager to try their breakfast menu. The cafe was cozy, filled with the aroma of freshly brewed coffee and the quiet murmur of early risers. I settled in with a set lunch menu and a spicy curry dish. It was just the fuel I needed for a day of exploration. I noted the drawing of a dog sitting on a chair on the wall, looking at the other empty chairs, as if it is waiting for its friends to sit on them. Drawn by the local artist, Keico Oogami, it has references to London designer Martino Gamper's “100 Chairs in 100 Days” exhibition at the Marugame Genichiro-Inokuma Museum of Contemporary Art (MIMOCA) in Kagawa Prefecture. It reminded me of Astrid and Lasse back home in Silkeborg, perhaps waiting for me to return from my artistic journey.

With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I set out for my first destination: the Naoshima Public Bath I Love Yu. The name itself, a playful take on the Japanese word for hot water, 'yu,' already hinted at the whimsy that awaited. Designed by artist Shinro Ohtake, this bathhouse is far from ordinary. The exterior is a riot of colors and textures, a collage of tiles, mosaics, and quirky found objects. It felt like stepping into a living, breathing piece of art.


Experience the unique blend of relaxation and art at Naoshima Public Bath I Love Yu, a must-visit destination for tranquility and cultural immersion.

Entering the bathhouse, I was immediately struck by the blend of the everyday and the extraordinary. It functions just like a regular public bath, but with a dash of quirky art for good measure. After depositing my shoes in a locker, I proceeded into the binary male changing room, put my stuff in a locker and head into the bathing area with my amenities and small towel. I washed thoroughly at the shower stations before finally relaxing in the hot bath. The bathing area was adorned with captivating mosaics and murals, and a life-size elephant sculpture stood as a centerpiece between the male and female bathing areas. As I soaked in the warm water, surrounded by this vibrant, surreal environment, I couldn't help but smile. It was a quintessential Naoshima experience – art interwoven with the fabric of daily life.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

Refreshed and invigorated, I continued my artistic pilgrimage to the Art House Project: Kadoya. This project breathes new life into abandoned houses in the Honmura district, transforming them into unique art spaces. Kadoya, meaning “Corner House”, was the first Art House to be created at one of the largest houses in the Honmura district, built about two centuries ago. For the project, Tadashi Yamamoto supervised the restoration, traditionally restoring the exterior, complete with charred boards and a tiled roof. Inside, there are two site-specific works by Miyajima: Sea of Time '98 (1998) and Naoshima's Counter Window (1998). I secured a multi-site ticket at the Honmura Lounge and Archive and was allocated a time slot for Minamidera, a collaboration between Tadao Ando and James Turrell. Ando designed the large wooden building and Turrell created what's inside. I won't spoil it but be prepared for complete darkness…


Explore the harmonious blend of traditional Japanese architecture and contemporary art at Naoshima's Art House Project: Kadoya.

The multi-site ticket for the project is sold at the Honmura Lounge and Archive which has a lovely shop with lots of tempting items for sale. You'll be allocated a time slot for Minamidera, a collaboration between Tadao Ando and James Turrell. Ando designed the large wooden building and Turrell created what's inside. The Art House Project involves the restoration of empty houses and the six sites are scattered around Honmura. I rather liked 'Sea of Time 98' at Kadoya which displays 125 digital LED counters. The pace of each counter was set by a Naoshima Island resident. I was also impressed with Haisha which was once a dentist's home and office but has been transformed into a striking sculptural work of art. Honmura is a nice small town to meander around and there's a cute little ice cream shop Naoshima Gelato where you can sit on a bench and admire the sea view. This is right by Honmura port where there's a huge sculpture of fiberglass balls. On closer inspection, we found it was a bike park. Everything is a piece of art in Naoshima!

As I wandered through the house, I was captivated by Tatsuo Miyajima’s 'Sea of Time '98.' This installation features a pool of water dotted with digital counters, each displaying numbers that blinked at varying speeds. I learned that local residents had set the pace of each counter, reflecting their individual perceptions of time. It was a poignant reminder of the subjective nature of experience, and how each of us moves through life at our own rhythm. I took the opportunity to involve the island inhabitants in this site-specific work; inhabitants with ages as varied as five and 95 set each counter with a speed of their liking, indicating how people uniquely view the passage of time. In a wall of another space in the house is Miyajima's Naoshima's Counter Window. This is a window made of liquid crystal display glass, with three large digital time counters. Set up to detect motion, the numbers on each pane move to reveal slices of the scenery outside as the numbers change.

Leaving Kadoya, I made my way to the Seaside Gallery, located within the Benesse House Museum complex. Designed by Tadao Ando, the gallery is a stunning architectural gem, its long, narrow layout following the natural contours of the terraced plaza overlooking the ocean. As I strolled through the space, I was bathed in the soft, diffused light that streamed through the large east-facing opening. The gallery features works themed around the sea and wind, allowing guests to feel the essence of the region. Notably, understanding the curated flow from Seaside Gallery to Benesse House Museum enhances appreciation for exhibited artworks like Kazuo Katase's 'Drink a Cup of Tea,' symbolizing a welcoming gesture.


Experience the intersection of contemporary art and nature at the Seaside Gallery on Naoshima Island, a must-visit modern art museum.

The Seaside Gallery, located near Benesse House's private pier, offers a pleasant and unique experience where visitors can casually discover art amidst the beautiful Seto Inland Sea and natural landscapes. The gallery features works themed around the sea and wind, allowing guests to feel the essence of the region. Notably, understanding the curated flow from Seaside Gallery to Benesse House Museum enhances appreciation for exhibited artworks like Kazuo Katase's 'Drink a Cup of Tea,' symbolizing a welcoming gesture. The architecture itself was a work of art, seamlessly blending with the surrounding landscape. The gallery featured works themed around the sea and wind, allowing guests to feel the essence of the region. It was a place for casual discovery of art in a stunning seaside location. Appreciate thematic artworks reflecting the beauty of Seto Inland Sea. Understand curated flow between Seaside Gallery and Benesse House Museum for enhanced artistic interpretation.

For lunch, I decided to try NaoPAM/ Shima-Shoku-Do Miyanda, known for its delicious fish set meals. Nestled on the picturesque island of Naoshima, NaoPAM/Shima-Shoku-Do Miyanda is a must-visit for seafood lovers. This charming eatery specializes in delectable fish set meals that highlight the freshest catches of the day. With a menu that changes daily, diners can savor options like sashimi, grilled fish, and boiled fish sets featuring local favorites such as Spanish mackerel and sea bream. I loved this restaurant! The fish was delicious and the staff were really welcoming. Thank you for a lovely meal! The lunch menu only had three options: sashimi, grilled fish or stewed fish.The restaurant's interior was simple yet charming, and the staff were warm and welcoming. I opted for the grilled fish set, and it was exquisite. The fish was fresh and perfectly cooked, its delicate flavor enhanced by a subtle blend of seasonings. As I savored each bite, I felt a deep connection to the island and its bounty.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at NaoPAM in Naoshima - where tradition meets flavor in a cozy atmosphere.

As evening approached, I sought out Kon'nichiwa, a local bar known for its relaxed atmosphere. I honestly cannot believe I almost went past this place. It's probably one of my favourite meals this trip. The vibe is very homely and the agedashi tofu is probably the best I've had. The curry is hearty. I honestly felt very much at home here. Thank you! Cozy restaurant with a terrace located conveniently near Honmura port. Offers several vegan options on the menu such as rice, curry, fries, edamame and cold tofu. Specify vegan and no animal products when ordering. I was ready to unwind after a day of artistic immersion. The bar was small and intimate, with a friendly bartender who greeted me with a smile. I ordered a local beer and settled in, striking up a conversation with a couple of fellow travelers. We shared stories of our Naoshima experiences, our voices mingling with the soft music and the clinking of glasses. It was a perfect end to a perfect day.


Discover the tranquil ambiance and delicious offerings at Kon'nichiwa, Naoshima's beloved café for art lovers and tourists alike.

For dinner, I decided to treat myself to a meal at Terrace Restaurant, located within the Benesse House complex. Boasting stunning views of the beach, it’s one of the best spots on the island to catch a sunset. The restaurant is run by Japanese staff and provides a picturesque view of the beach, making it one of the best spots on the island to catch a sunset. Guests can enjoy a degustation course featuring highlights such as tempura fish and chilled corn soup. Additionally, breakfast options are available with American-style offerings due to the pandemic. The service was impeccable, and the food was a work of art in itself. Each dish was a delicate balance of flavors and textures, a testament to the chef's skill and creativity. As I dined, I gazed out at the sea, watching the sun dip below the horizon, painting the sky with vibrant hues of orange and gold. It was a moment of pure bliss, a perfect culmination to a day of artistic exploration.


Experience fine dining at Terrace Restaurant in Naoshima—where art meets exquisite cuisine amidst breathtaking views.

As I walked back to My Lodge Naoshima, I reflected on the day's experiences. From the communal art of the public bath to the intimate spaces of the Art House Project and the architectural beauty of the Seaside Gallery, Naoshima had once again captivated my senses and stirred my soul. The island's ability to seamlessly blend art, culture, and nature is truly remarkable, and I felt grateful to be a part of its unique story.


Discover affordable comfort at My Lodge Naoshima, an ideal base for exploring the art-laden island while enjoying local cuisine and free parking.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore more of Naoshima's hidden gems, including the Gokurakuji Temple and Shipyard Works by Shinro Otake. I'm also looking forward to trying Yayoda for breakfast and Gumbo Hut Shioya for dinner. Until then, I'll cherish the memories of this day, carrying them with me as I continue my artistic exploration of Japan. I will also visit Shimacoya for some shopping.

Before drifting off to sleep, I made a mental note to buy sunscreen tomorrow; the sun here can be quite intense, and I seem to have forgotten to pack mine. Astrid would certainly remind me if she were here!