Solo Pilgrimage on Japan's Kumano Kodo

Journey's End, But Not Really

As my Kumano Kodo pilgrimage draws to a close, I find myself reflecting on the profound experiences of the past thirteen days. The ancient trails have led me through stunning landscapes and into a deeper understanding of myself. Today was about savoring the last moments, absorbing the spiritual essence of this remarkable journey, and preparing for the return to Toronto.

My final day began with a traditional Japanese breakfast at Jokiin. The simple, yet nourishing meal of tofu, rice, and miso soup was the perfect way to start a day dedicated to reflection and exploration. I savored each bite, appreciating the quiet atmosphere of the temple before setting out on my last hike.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

The morning was dedicated to traversing a portion of the Kumano Kodo Kohechi Pilgrimage Route. Known as the most remote and strenuous of the Kumano Kodo trails, the Kohechi Route links Koyasan and Kumano. Although I didn’t hike the entire 65km route, the section I explored offered a challenging yet rewarding experience. The trail wound through dense forests, over steep inclines, and past ancient Oji shrines, each step resonating with centuries of history and spiritual significance. The peace and quiet was only broken by the sound of my own breathing and the rustling of leaves; it was a welcome change from the hustle and bustle of Toronto.


Discover the Kumano Kodo Kohechi Pilgrimage Route, where ancient spirituality meets stunning natural beauty in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.

The end of a journey is not the end of the road, but rather the beginning of a new perspective.

Next on the itinerary was the Koyazaka Slope, a picturesque trail that forms part of the Kumano Kodo. Stretching from the Hirotsuno bus stop to JR Miwasaki Station, the Koyazaka Slope offered stunning views of the coast and the surrounding landscapes. The trail was well-maintained, with moss-covered cobblestones adding to its ancient charm. Along the way, I stopped at the Magohachi Jizo, a small statue welcoming visitors to the Kumano area. I also took a moment to appreciate the views of Ojigahama Coast and the whale viewing ruins, reflecting on the area’s rich history and natural beauty.


Explore Koyazaka Slope in Shingu, Wakayama: A perfect blend of hiking, history, and breathtaking views along the Kumano Kodo trail.

For lunch, I stopped at Sansaro Cafe in Koyasan. This cozy guesthouse and café offered a welcome respite, and I enjoyed a light, vegetarian meal while soaking in the tranquil atmosphere. I was able to request a vegetarian meal in advance. The cafe is known for its vegetarian options, which are prepared with local ingredients.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

After lunch, I visited the Nachisan Sightseeing Center, a charming spot that serves as both a souvenir store and a dessert shop. I picked up a few mementos for Priya and Devon, wanting to bring home a piece of the Kumano Kodo for them. The center had a variety of local crafts and sweets, and I couldn’t resist trying some of the local ice cream. The staff was friendly and helpful, offering tips about the best local attractions.


Discover unique souvenirs and delightful treats at the Nachisan Sightseeing Center, your go-to destination in Nachikatsuura, Wakayama.

My final dinner in Japan was at Tororoya, a restaurant known for its traditional Japanese cuisine. I enjoyed a delicious meal of tororozen, a dish made with grated yam, which is a local specialty. The restaurant had a cozy atmosphere, and the staff was welcoming and attentive. It was the perfect way to end my culinary journey through the Kumano Kodo.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

As I prepare to leave Japan tomorrow, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences I’ve had. This solo pilgrimage has been a journey of self-discovery, spiritual growth, and cultural immersion. I’ve hiked ancient trails, explored sacred sites, and connected with the natural beauty of Japan. I’ve also had the opportunity to reflect on my life, my relationships, and my place in the world.

The Kumano Kodo has challenged me physically, mentally, and emotionally. It has pushed me out of my comfort zone and forced me to confront my fears and insecurities. But it has also given me the opportunity to grow, to learn, and to become a better version of myself. I am returning to Toronto with a renewed sense of purpose, a deeper appreciation for the simple things in life, and a greater understanding of the world around me.

I will miss the serene landscapes, the ancient temples, and the warm hospitality of the Japanese people. But I know that the memories of this journey will stay with me forever. And I am already looking forward to the day when I can return to Japan and explore more of its hidden treasures. Perhaps I’ll bring Priya and Devon next time, so they can experience the magic of the Kumano Kodo for themselves. This trip has definitely earned a place in my travel journal, alongside my adventures in Trinidad and Tobago. The blend of cultural richness and natural beauty reminds me of home, and I can’t wait to share these stories with Devon.

Until next time, arigato gozaimasu, Japan. It’s been an unforgettable experience.