Solo Pilgrimage on Japan's Kumano Kodo

A Journey Begins
The first day of any trip is always filled with a unique blend of excitement and anticipation, and today was no exception. As I set foot on the Kumano Kodo, I felt a sense of stepping back in time, ready to immerse myself in the spiritual and historical richness of this ancient pilgrimage route. The air was thick with humidity, a typical August day here in Japan, but the promise of tranquility and self-discovery spurred me onward.

My journey began with a hearty breakfast at Jokiin, my temple lodging for the night. The traditional Japanese fare was both nourishing and comforting, providing the perfect fuel for the day's adventures. I must remember to ask Priya to try recreate some of these dishes when I get back. After breakfast, I decided to visit the Kumano Kodo Information Center. It was a good decision, as I wanted to gather as much information as possible about the trails and the cultural significance of the pilgrimage. It’s always good to be prepared, though I did forget my portable charger, a rookie mistake I will try not to repeat!


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

Equipped with maps and brochures, I set off towards the Daimon Gate. The walk to the gate was an experience in itself, surrounded by the lush greenery and the sounds of nature. As I approached the Daimon Gate, its imposing structure, standing at 25 meters high, immediately captivated me. The intricate carvings and traditional Japanese architecture were a sight to behold. Passing through the gate felt like crossing a threshold into a sacred space, leaving behind the ordinary and entering a world of spirituality and history.


Discover the serene beauty of Daimon Gate, Koyasan’s iconic Buddhist temple and historical landmark, where spirituality meets stunning architecture.

I took some time to soak in the panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. The vista was breathtaking, a perfect blend of natural beauty and human craftsmanship. The air was fresh and clean, a welcome change from the city smog back in Toronto. I paused to take a few photos, trying to capture the essence of this majestic entrance, but no picture could truly do it justice. You really have to see it to believe it.

From Daimon Gate, I continued my pilgrimage towards Nyonin-do Hall. This hall has a unique significance as it was historically a place where women, who were once prohibited from entering Koyasan, could worship. The Nyonin-do Hall stands as a symbol of inclusivity and reverence, and is one of the last remaining halls. The hall exudes a sense of peace and history. The architecture is simple yet elegant, blending seamlessly with the natural surroundings. Inside, the atmosphere was serene, with soft lighting and the gentle sounds of nature creating a calming ambiance. I spent some time in quiet reflection, thinking about the women who had come before me, seeking solace and spiritual connection in this very spot. The hall served as a reminder of the enduring power of faith and the importance of creating spaces where everyone feels welcome and valued.


Discover the spiritual serenity of Nyonin-do Hall in Koyasan, a place where tradition and tranquility unite for an unforgettable cultural experience.

The Kumano Kodo is more than just a trail; it's a journey into the heart of Japan's spiritual heritage, a path where history and nature intertwine to create an unforgettable experience.

For lunch, I stopped at Sansaro Cafe. This charming cafe offered a welcome respite with its cozy atmosphere and delicious food. I enjoyed a light meal, savoring the local flavors and the peaceful ambiance. It was a perfect spot to recharge before continuing my journey. I made sure to request a vegetarian meal in advance, as I am trying to cut back on meat.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way back to Jokiin for dinner. The Hinoki Steak House was closed for the day, so I ended up eating at the temple. The evening meal was another delightful experience, with a variety of traditional dishes that were both delicious and visually appealing. After dinner, I took a leisurely stroll around the temple grounds, enjoying the cool evening air and the quiet solitude. The temple was beautiful, and felt like a real retreat. I spent some time journaling, reflecting on the day's experiences and the deeper meaning of this pilgrimage. I found myself thinking about Devon and Priya, and how much they would have enjoyed this experience.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

The weather today was typical for August in Koyasan, hot and humid with a chance of rain. The temperature hovered around 30°C (86°F) during the day, with high humidity making it feel even warmer. Despite the heat, the occasional breeze and the shade of the trees provided some relief. I made sure to stay hydrated, drinking plenty of water throughout the day. The forecast for tomorrow looks similar, so I'll be sure to pack accordingly. The best time to visit is apparently May and October, with temperatures between 20°C and 26°C.

Reflecting on my first day, I am struck by the profound sense of history and spirituality that permeates the Kumano Kodo. Every step I took felt like a connection to the past, to the countless pilgrims who have walked these trails before me. The Daimon Gate and Nyonin-do Hall were not just tourist spots but sacred places that resonated with a deep sense of reverence and peace. As I prepare for tomorrow's journey to Kumano Hongu Taisha, I carry with me the lessons and experiences of today, ready to embrace whatever lies ahead.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three grand shrines of Kumano, and the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center. I'm particularly excited to see the Oyunohara, the original site of the shrine, and to learn more about the history and cultural significance of this sacred site. I am also planning to stop by Wine Kumano for a drink to celebrate the end of my second day.

This solo pilgrimage is turning out to be exactly what I needed – a chance to disconnect from the hustle and bustle of daily life and reconnect with myself and with something greater. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a trail; it's a path to self-discovery and spiritual renewal, and I am grateful for the opportunity to walk it.