Family Adventure in the Heart of Fes

Gates of Wonder

Today marked another incredible chapter in our Fes adventure. With only one day left, we were determined to soak up as much of this magical city as possible. I've always been fascinated by historical landmarks, and Fes, with its ancient gates and winding alleyways, felt like stepping back in time. Saoirse was especially excited, imagining knights and caravans passing through these very gates centuries ago. Hans, ever the pragmatist, was keen to see the architectural details and understand the historical significance. As for me, I was eager to experience the stories these walls held within them.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Dar Chadia Fes. The warm hospitality and delicious Moroccan tea set the perfect tone for our explorations. Coralie and Said, the owners, were incredibly kind, offering tips and insights about the city. It felt like starting the day with family, a comforting thought as we prepared to navigate the bustling streets of Fes.


Savor authentic Moroccan dishes at Dar Chadia Fes - where tradition meets flavor in the heart of Morocco's oldest city.

First on our itinerary was Bab Ftouh, the main southeastern gate of Fes el-Bali. As we approached, the sheer size of the gate was awe-inspiring. Its name, meaning Gate of the Opening or Gate of Conquest, hinted at its historical importance. The structure, with its Almohad design and massive Moorish arch, stood tall, a silent witness to centuries of Fassi history. I imagined merchants, scholars, and travelers passing through this gate, each with their own stories and dreams. The gate, flanked by two formidable rectangular towers, exuded strength and resilience. I couldn't help but feel a sense of reverence for the generations who had walked this path before us.


Discover the enchanting Bab Ftouh, a historical gateway to Fes's medina, showcasing stunning architecture and vibrant local culture.

Outside the gate, we found ourselves at the Bab Ftouh Cemetery, a sprawling expanse on the rising slopes. The cemetery is one of the largest and most prestigious in Fes, housing the graves of many of Fes's famous and wealthy citizens, as well as local Muslim saints. The elevated prayer area, known as the Msalla of the Pasha, offered a serene space for reflection. The cemetery was divided into two sections, each telling its own story through the weathered tombstones and peaceful atmosphere. Saoirse was intrigued by the stories of the saints and scholars buried there, while Hans appreciated the quietude and historical significance of the place. I found myself contemplating the lives of those who had come before us, their legacies etched in stone.

Exploring Fes is like stepping into a living history book, where every corner tells a story and every gate whispers secrets of the past.

Next, we ventured towards Bab Al Amer, located near the western end of the Jewish Mellah. This gate, dating back to 1276, served as the main western entrance to Fes el-Jdid. Its name, Gate of Order, likely referred to the nearby barracks of the city guards. As we stood before it, I imagined the soldiers who once stood watch, protecting the city from invaders. The gate's architecture, though modified over the years, still held a sense of its original grandeur. It was fascinating to learn that the French administration had once demolished parts of the surrounding wall to ease traffic, a testament to the ever-changing needs of the city. The nearby Place des Alaouites, once a Jewish cemetery, now served as a bustling public square, a symbol of Fes's evolving identity.


Discover Bab Al Amer, a historical gem in Fes, Morocco, showcasing stunning architecture and cultural richness, perfect for history enthusiasts and travelers alike.

Our final gate of the day was Bab Sigma, located north of Fes el-Jdid. This former Marinid gate, built in 1286, was once part of the royal gardens. Although the gardens have long disappeared, the two massive octagonal towers of the gate still stand, marking the area. It was interesting to learn that the gate's name came from a pious woman named Amina Sagma, who was buried here in 1737. The nearby cemetery, also known as the Bab Sigma Cemetery, added to the historical ambiance of the place. As we gazed at the towers, I imagined the lush gardens that once surrounded them, a tranquil oasis for the Marinid rulers. Saoirse was fascinated by the towers, imagining them as part of a fairy-tale castle.


Explore the historical significance of Bab Sigma, a captivating gateway in Fes, Morocco, where culture and architecture meet.

For lunch, we decided to try Restaurant MB, located in Ville Nouvelle. This modern establishment offered a delightful contrast to the traditional medina. The menu featured a mix of French classics and Moroccan specialties, a culinary fusion that perfectly captured the spirit of Fes. I opted for the Traditional Pigeon Pastilla, a new combination of flavors that delighted my taste buds. The crispy warqa pastry and tender pigeon filling, mixed with almonds and sweet spices, was a true culinary masterpiece. Hans enjoyed the Ocean Roll of Shrimp and Fish, while Saoirse devoured a plate of Tagliatelle. The service was excellent, and the ambiance was both stylish and relaxed. It was a perfect interlude in our day of historical explorations.


Experience French culinary excellence at Restaurant MB in Fes—where sophistication meets flavor in a stunning lounge atmosphere.

As the afternoon waned, we sought a place to unwind and reflect on our day. Le Noble Du Terroir, a local bar, seemed like the perfect spot. This cozy establishment offered a selection of local wines and beers, a welcome treat after a day of walking. The atmosphere was friendly and inviting, and we enjoyed chatting with the locals and fellow travelers. It was a great way to immerse ourselves in the local culture and learn more about the city from those who knew it best. I savored a glass of Moroccan wine, its earthy notes a perfect complement to the warm evening air. Hans enjoyed a local beer, while Saoirse sipped on a refreshing lemonade.


Experience the vibrant atmosphere and local flavors at Le Noble Du Terroir, a charming bar in Fes, Morocco.

For dinner, we chose Fondouk Bazaar, a trendy restaurant known for its fusion cuisine. The menu, inspired by Mediterranean, Middle Eastern, and Moroccan flavors, offered a delightful array of options. We started with a mezze of tapas, including Moroccan orange salad, baby zucchini salad, and Lebanese cheese and thyme cigars. Each dish was phenomenal, a testament to the chef's culinary skills. For the main course, I opted for the chicken with orange and saffron, its flavors a perfect blend of sweet and savory. Hans enjoyed the lamb tagine, while Saoirse devoured a plate of mushroom croquettes. The warm atmosphere and excellent service added to the overall dining experience.


Experience authentic Moroccan cuisine at Fondouk Bazaar - where tradition meets taste in the heart of Fes.

As we walked back to our riad, the city was bathed in the soft glow of the streetlights. The sounds of the medina, though quieter than during the day, still filled the air. I couldn't help but feel a sense of gratitude for the experiences we had shared today. Fes, with its ancient gates, vibrant culture, and culinary delights, had captured our hearts. I thought about tomorrow, our last day, and the Fez-Volubilis Tour we had planned. I was excited to explore more of this fascinating region, to delve deeper into its history and culture. But for now, I was content to savor the memories of today, the gates we had explored, the flavors we had tasted, and the stories we had heard.

Tomorrow marks our final day in Fes, and we plan to make the most of it with a tour to Volubilis, exploring the Roman ruins and soaking in the historical ambiance. We also hope to experience a ride on the Mules of the Medina, a unique way to navigate the narrow streets. A visit to Bab Riafa is also on the cards, before a spot of shopping at Art Fez. It's going to be a busy day, but I'm excited to see what other treasures Fes has in store for us.