Family Adventure in the Heart of Fes

A Fond Farewell to Fes

As our Moroccan adventure draws to a close, I find myself reflecting on the incredible experiences we've shared as a family. Today was a whirlwind of ancient history, bustling markets, and the simple joys of discovering hidden corners of Fes. It’s amazing how a place can capture your heart in just a few weeks, and Fes has certainly done that for us.

Our final day began, as many others have, with a delightful breakfast at Al Oud. Situated right on a main street in the Medina, it's the perfect place to people-watch while enjoying some of the best pastilla and lamb tagine in town. The colorful atmosphere and friendly staff made it a memorable start to our day. Saoirse especially loved the mint tea, declaring it the best she’s had on the entire trip – a high compliment indeed!


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors at Al Oud in Fes El Bali—where tradition meets taste in a charming setting.

After breakfast, we embarked on our Fes-Volubilis Tour. I was particularly excited about this, as I've always been fascinated by Roman history, and the opportunity to explore the ruins of Volubilis was too good to pass up. Hans, ever the history buff, was just as eager, and Saoirse was surprisingly enthusiastic, armed with her travel journal and a keen eye for detail.


Discover the rich history and stunning landscapes of the Fes-Volubilis Tour, a captivating journey through Morocco's ancient heritage.

The drive to Volubilis was scenic, winding through rolling hills and olive groves. It was a welcome change from the intensity of the Medina. As we approached the site, the ancient ruins rose before us, a testament to a bygone era. Exploring Volubilis felt like stepping back in time. The well-preserved mosaics, towering columns, and remnants of ancient structures painted a vivid picture of Roman life in Morocco. We wandered through the ruins, imagining what life must have been like in this once-thriving city. Hans, of course, had all sorts of historical tidbits to share, making the experience even richer. Saoirse, surprisingly engaged, peppered our guide with questions, showing a genuine interest in the history unfolding before her eyes.

Travel is more than seeing the sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living.

After Volubilis, we made a brief stop at Moulay Idriss, one of Morocco's holiest cities. The narrow streets and compact town offered a glimpse into a different side of Moroccan culture, steeped in religious significance. Though our time there was short, it was a worthwhile experience, adding another layer to our understanding of this diverse country. Afterwards, we headed to Meknes, one of Morocco's four imperial cities. The Medina of Meknes was indeed interesting and full of culture! We walked through the Lahdim square and viewed the Bab Mansour.

Back in Fes, it was time for lunch, and we decided to try Restaurant Dar Hatim. Finding it was an adventure in itself, navigating the labyrinthine streets of the Medina. The restaurant is set in a stunningly beautiful, exquisitely tiled home that once belonged to a local family. Karima, the hostess, welcomed us warmly, making us feel like old friends. We opted for the fixed menu, and each course was a delight, bursting with authentic Moroccan flavors. The lamb tagine was a standout, tender and flavorful, and the pastilla was perfectly flaky and delicious. It truly felt like dining in a palace, a regal experience that we won't soon forget. Hans was particularly impressed with the intricate woodwork, while Saoirse enjoyed hearing stories of the family who had lived there for generations.


Experience authentic Moroccan cuisine at Restaurant Dar Hatim in Fès - where every meal tells a story of tradition and flavor.

With our bellies full and our spirits high, we ventured back into the Medina for some afternoon shopping. Our destination: Art fez. I was hoping to find a few unique souvenirs to bring back to Berlin, something that would remind us of our time in Morocco. The shop was a treasure trove of handcrafted ceramics, from intricately painted bowls to colorful tiles. I ended up purchasing a beautiful mosaic for our garden back in Berlin, a vibrant reminder of our Fassi adventure. Saoirse picked out a small, hand-painted tagine, perfect for her budding culinary experiments.


Explore Art Fez in Fes El Bali for unique gifts and handcrafted shoes that embody Moroccan artistry and culture.

As the afternoon wore on, we decided to experience the Mules of the Medina firsthand. It's a unique way to navigate the narrow, winding streets, and Saoirse was particularly excited about the prospect of riding a mule. The experience was certainly memorable, if a bit bumpy! It gave us a different perspective on the Medina, allowing us to appreciate the intricate details of the architecture and the bustling energy of the souks. I couldn’t help but think of the American woman, Amy Bend Bishop, who back in 1927 donated a significant amount of money to establish a free veterinary service in Fes because she was so disturbed by the poor condition of the animals. It’s comforting to know that people have been looking out for these creatures for nearly a century.


Discover the Mules of the Medina in Fes, where tradition meets everyday life in a vibrant cultural tapestry.

Our final stop of the day was Bab Riafa, a gate located in the southern wall of the corridor connecting Fes el-Jdid and Fes el-Bali. Originally a garrison post for troops from the Rif mountains, it offered a glimpse into the city's defensive past. We strolled along Avenue de l'UNESCO, taking in the sights and sounds of this historic area. It was a fitting end to our exploration of Fes, a city where history and culture intertwine at every turn.


Explore the historic Bab Riafa, a stunning gateway in Fes, Morocco, that embodies the city's rich cultural heritage and vibrant atmosphere.

For dinner, we decided to splurge a little and try Nur. Knowing that Chef Najat Kaanache was inspired by the cultural and agricultural diversity of Morocco, I was keen to experience a modern take on Moroccan cuisine. The restaurant itself was stunning, a chic riad-turned-restaurant with a focus on artful presentation and inspired flavor combinations. We opted for the tasting menu, and each course was a culinary masterpiece, a fusion of traditional Moroccan ingredients and innovative techniques. While the portions were small, the flavors were bold and unforgettable. Hans, ever the gourmand, appreciated the creativity and artistry of each dish. Saoirse, though a bit less adventurous, found a few dishes that she thoroughly enjoyed, expanding her palate in the process.


Experience the essence of Moroccan cuisine at Nur in Fes - where tradition meets innovation in every delicious bite.

As we savored our final meal in Fes, I couldn't help but feel a sense of gratitude for the experiences we've shared as a family. From the bustling souks to the ancient ruins, from the delicious tagines to the warm hospitality of the Moroccan people, Fes has left an indelible mark on our hearts. It's a city that has challenged us, inspired us, and brought us closer together.

Tomorrow, we bid farewell to Morocco, carrying with us memories that will last a lifetime. While I'm sad to leave this enchanting country, I'm also excited to return to Berlin, armed with new perspectives, new recipes, and a renewed appreciation for the beauty and diversity of our world. I’m sure I’ll be trying to recreate some of the delicious dishes we’ve enjoyed here, much to Hans’s delight, I’m sure!

Until next time, Fes. Thank you for the memories.

P.S. I almost forgot to mention that today I learned of a festival called Terres de Traces which began today! It’s being held in the Fes region and goes on until June 1st. How lovely to be here during such a vibrant event!