Family Adventure in the Heart of Fes

Day 13: A Day of Ancient Gates and Hidden Gems in Fes

Exploring the historic gates of Fes, indulging in local cuisine, and discovering hidden treasures with my family in the heart of Morocco.

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Lost in the Labyrinthine Beauty of Fes


Today was another day of wandering through the mesmerizing labyrinth of Fes, a city that feels like stepping back in time. With Saoirse and Hans by my side, I embraced the unpredictable nature of the medina, allowing ourselves to get delightfully lost in its winding alleys. Each corner turned revealed a new sensory experience, a vibrant tapestry of colors, sounds, and scents that invigorated our senses. From the tantalizing aromas of spices to the rhythmic clang of metalworkers, Fes continued to captivate us with its timeless charm.

Our day began, as many do here, with a delightful breakfast at Cinema Cafe. It's quickly becoming a favorite of ours, not just for the delicious food, but also for the friendly atmosphere. Saoirse was particularly thrilled with her pancakes, while Hans and I enjoyed some traditional Moroccan pastries with strong coffee. It's amazing how a simple breakfast can set the tone for a day of adventure.

Experience authentic Moroccan cuisine at Cinema Cafe in Fes—where tradition meets casual dining in a welcoming atmosphere.
Experience authentic Moroccan cuisine at Cinema Cafe in Fes—where tradition meets casual dining in a welcoming atmosphere.

The beauty of Fes lies not just in its grand monuments, but in the everyday moments of discovery and connection.


Fueled up, we set off to explore some of Fes's famed gates. Our first stop was Bab Ziat. It was fascinating to imagine all the people who had passed through this gate over the centuries. The gate itself is quite impressive, though perhaps not as imposing as some of the others we've seen. What I found most interesting was the palpable sense of history that permeated the area.

Explore Bab Ziat, a stunning historical landmark in Fes, Morocco, rich in culture and architectural beauty, perfect for history enthusiasts and travelers.
Explore Bab Ziat, a stunning historical landmark in Fes, Morocco, rich in culture and architectural beauty, perfect for history enthusiasts and travelers.

Next on our list was the Saffarin Madrasa. This ancient school, nestled in the heart of the medina, offered a serene escape from the bustling streets. Founded in 1271, it's one of the oldest madrasas in Fes. The intricate carvings and tilework were simply stunning, and it was easy to imagine students from centuries ago studying within its walls. I found myself reflecting on the importance of education and the enduring legacy of this institution. It’s amazing to think that this madrasa once housed students from all over Morocco, offering them not only education but also basic necessities. As someone who teaches English to expats in Berlin, I have a soft spot for educational institutions.

Explore the Saffarin Madrasa in Fes, a historical landmark showcasing stunning architecture and the rich educational heritage of Morocco.
Explore the Saffarin Madrasa in Fes, a historical landmark showcasing stunning architecture and the rich educational heritage of Morocco.

After soaking in the peaceful atmosphere of the madrasa, we continued our exploration, eventually arriving at Bab Khoukha. Each of these gates tells a story, and Bab Khoukha was no exception. Though perhaps less grand than Bab Bou Jeloud, it possessed a unique charm. I learned that Bab Khoukha historically served as an exit point towards Tlemcen. It's incredible to think about the travelers who passed through this gate on their way to distant lands. Saoirse was particularly fascinated by the name, thinking it had something to do with peaches (khoukha means peach in Arabic), but I explained that it likely referred to a smaller door within the larger gate.

Explore the historic Bab Khoukha in Fes, a stunning gateway showcasing Morocco's rich cultural heritage and architectural beauty.
Explore the historic Bab Khoukha in Fes, a stunning gateway showcasing Morocco's rich cultural heritage and architectural beauty.

By this point, our stomachs were starting to rumble, so we made our way to Cafe Clock for lunch. I'd heard so much about their famous camel burger, and I must admit, I was intrigued. Hans, ever the adventurous one, was immediately on board, while Saoirse eyed it with a bit of skepticism. I decided to try it myself, and I have to say, it was surprisingly delicious! The meat had a unique flavor, somewhere between lamb and venison. Saoirse, after a bit of coaxing, even took a small bite and declared it not bad. Cafe Clock is known for its commitment to the community, providing work and education opportunities for locals, which makes the experience even more fulfilling. Plus, they have cooking classes! I'm tempted to sign up for one before we leave.

Experience authentic Moroccan flavors at Cafe Clock in Fes - where tradition meets contemporary dining in a vibrant atmosphere.
Experience authentic Moroccan flavors at Cafe Clock in Fes - where tradition meets contemporary dining in a vibrant atmosphere.

With our bellies full, we decided to indulge in a bit of retail therapy at Palais du Tresor. I wasn't necessarily planning on buying anything, but I was curious to see the carpets and textiles that Fes is so famous for. As soon as we stepped inside, we were transported to another world. The colors, patterns, and textures were simply breathtaking. The staff was incredibly knowledgeable, explaining the history and significance of each piece. Saoirse was particularly drawn to a small, intricately woven rug with vibrant colors. I could see the wheels turning in her head as she imagined it in her bedroom back in Berlin. It was a bit pricey, but I decided to splurge and buy it for her as a souvenir. It's a beautiful reminder of our time in Fes, and I know she'll treasure it for years to come. The owner was very kind and shared a lot about the history of carpet making in Morocco, which I found fascinating. It’s these kinds of authentic cultural experiences that make traveling so rewarding.

Explore the enchanting Palais du Tresor, a carpet store in Fes offering exquisite handmade Moroccan carpets that embody tradition and artistry.
Explore the enchanting Palais du Tresor, a carpet store in Fes offering exquisite handmade Moroccan carpets that embody tradition and artistry.

As the sun began to set, we made our way to Restaurant La Cabane for dinner. I had read some great reviews and was eager to try their traditional Moroccan cuisine. We were not disappointed. The tagine was flavorful and tender, and the couscous was perfectly fluffy. The restaurant itself had a cozy and inviting atmosphere, and the staff was incredibly attentive. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration.

Discover the best pizza in Fes at Restaurant La Cabane, where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality in a cozy atmosphere.
Discover the best pizza in Fes at Restaurant La Cabane, where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality in a cozy atmosphere.

Tomorrow is our last full day in Fes, and I'm already feeling a bit nostalgic. We plan to visit Bab Ftouh, Bab Al Amer, and Bab Sigma, completing our tour of the city's gates. We're also hoping to find some time to relax at Le Noble Du Terroir, a bar I've heard great things about. I’m also looking forward to trying Dar Chadia Fes for breakfast, Restaurant MB for lunch and Fondouk Bazaar for our final dinner. I can’t believe our Moroccan adventure is almost over. It’s been an incredible experience, and I know we’ll be talking about it for years to come. I’m so glad I got to share this with Hans and Saoirse. These are the memories that truly matter.

As I sit here writing this, I can still hear the echoes of the medina, the calls to prayer, the laughter of children, and the rhythmic beat of drums. Fes has a way of getting under your skin, of capturing your heart and soul. It's a city that I'll never forget, and I can't wait to return someday.

Tomorrow, we bid adieu to Fes, but not before soaking in every last bit of its magic. I'm particularly excited to explore more of the ancient gates – Bab Ftouh, Bab Al Amer, and Bab Sigma – each promising a unique glimpse into the city's storied past. And perhaps, we'll cap off our final evening with a taste of local flavors at Le Noble Du Terroir. Until then, Fes, you continue to enchant us with your timeless beauty and vibrant spirit.
Go to day 12 A Day of Royal Encounters and Culinary Delights in Fes
Go to day 14 Exploring the Gates of Fes: A Journey Through Time
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Family Adventure in the Heart of Fes

Explore the vibrant culture and history of Fes, Morocco, with a family-friendly adventure, discovering hidden gems and authentic experiences.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Aoife Walsh
  • Occupation icon Occupation: ESL Teacher
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 44

Dia duit, everyone! I'm Aoife, an Irish expat living in Berlin. After moving from Westport to Berlin ten years ago, I've developed a deep love for exploring new places, especially with my husband, Hans, and our daughter, Saoirse. As an ESL teacher, I'm passionate about languages and cultures, and I love sharing my travel experiences and tips with fellow adventurers. Join me as I share stories from my travels, tips for sustainable travel, and insights into the best cultural experiences Europe has to offer!

Interests:
  • Irish Literature
  • European History
  • Learning new languages
  • Sustainable living
  • World music
More about Aoife Walsh

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Explore locations from this diary

  • Bab Ziat

    Explore Bab Ziat, a stunning historical landmark in Fes, Morocco, rich in culture and architectural beauty, perfect for history enthusiasts and travelers.

  • Saffarin Madrasa

    Explore the Saffarin Madrasa in Fes, a historical landmark showcasing stunning architecture and the rich educational heritage of Morocco.

  • Bab Khoukha

    Explore the historic Bab Khoukha in Fes, a stunning gateway showcasing Morocco's rich cultural heritage and architectural beauty.

  • Cinema Cafe

    Experience authentic Moroccan cuisine at Cinema Cafe in Fes—where tradition meets casual dining in a welcoming atmosphere.

  • Cafe Clock

    Experience authentic Moroccan flavors at Cafe Clock in Fes - where tradition meets contemporary dining in a vibrant atmosphere.

  • Restaurant La Cabane

    Discover the best pizza in Fes at Restaurant La Cabane, where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality in a cozy atmosphere.

  • Palais du Tresor

    Explore the enchanting Palais du Tresor, a carpet store in Fes offering exquisite handmade Moroccan carpets that embody tradition and artistry.

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