Family Adventure in the Heart of Fes

Culinary Delights and Panoramic Sights in Fes

Today was a feast for the senses, a true immersion into the heart of Fassi culture. From the tantalizing aromas of a cooking class to the breathtaking views from an ancient fortress, Fes revealed its many layers, leaving me utterly captivated.



Our day began at the renowned La Maison Bleue for breakfast, a place I'd heard whispers about for its authentic Moroccan hospitality. Saoirse was particularly excited, having read about it in one of her books. Stepping inside felt like entering another world. The riad was stunning, decorated with wooden panelling and stained glass. The staff were so kind and helpful. Breakfast was a feast. There was a variety of cheese, pastries and fruit. It was the perfect way to start the day.


Experience authentic Moroccan hospitality at La Maison Bleue – where tradition meets luxury in the heart of Fes.



From there, we headed to Palais Amani for our cooking class. I'd booked us into the Fez Cooking School at Palais Amani, eager to learn the secrets of Moroccan cuisine. I’ve always believed that food is a window into a culture, and what better way to understand Fes than to learn how to prepare its most iconic dishes? Hans, ever the practical one, was keen to pick up some new recipes to try back in Berlin.


Discover the art of Moroccan cooking at the Fez Cooking School, where culinary tradition meets hands-on learning in the heart of Fes.

The experience began with a guided tour of the souk, a sensory explosion of colors, sounds, and smells. Our chef, the lovely Loubna, led us through the labyrinthine alleys, introducing us to local vendors and helping us select the freshest ingredients. Saoirse was fascinated by the mounds of spices, each with its own unique fragrance. We tasted olives, sampled dates, and learned how to distinguish between different types of argan oil. It was an education in itself!

Back at Palais Amani, we gathered in the kitchen, a beautiful space with views overlooking the medina. Loubna guided us through the preparation of a traditional tagine, sharing tips and techniques passed down through generations. Saoirse was particularly enthusiastic, eager to try her hand at chopping vegetables and stirring the simmering sauce. Even Hans, usually more comfortable with spreadsheets than saucepans, got into the spirit of things, carefully arranging the ingredients in the tagine.

As the tagine simmered, filling the kitchen with its rich aroma, we prepared a refreshing Moroccan salad, learning how to balance the sweet, savory, and spicy flavors that define this cuisine. The cooking class was more than just a lesson in gastronomy; it was a cultural exchange, a chance to connect with the heart and soul of Fes.

“The best journeys answer questions that in the beginning you didn't even think to ask.”

Lunch, of course, was the highlight. We sat in the tranquil gardens of Palais Amani, savoring the fruits of our labor. The tagine was exquisite, the chicken tender and flavorful, the vegetables perfectly cooked. Saoirse declared it the best meal she'd had in Morocco, a high compliment indeed. It was lovely to chat with the other participants of the cooking class, sharing stories and laughter over our delicious meal.

After our delightful culinary adventure, we ventured into the heart of the medina, drawn by the allure of the Nejjarine Fountain. Tucked away in Nejjarine Square, the fountain is an 18th-century masterpiece adorned with intricate tile work and carved wood. The fountain provided a refreshing respite from the bustling medina, its gentle murmur a soothing contrast to the lively square. The Nejjarine Square was bustling with activity, local artisans selling their wares. The air was filled with the scent of cedar and the rhythmic tapping of hammers. It was fascinating to watch the craftsmen at work, preserving ancient traditions in the heart of the city. Saoirse was particularly taken with the intricate wood carvings, her fingers tracing the delicate patterns. I picked up a small, hand-carved box as a souvenir, a reminder of the exquisite craftsmanship of Fes.


Explore the architectural beauty of Nejjarine Fountain in Fes, a symbol of Moroccan craftsmanship and a peaceful escape in the bustling medina.

Before leaving the square, we took a peek inside the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts, housed in a beautifully restored fondouk. The museum was fascinating, showcasing a collection of historical objects, including carved doors, musical instruments, and household items. It offered a glimpse into the rich artistic heritage of Fes and the importance of wood craftsmanship in Moroccan culture.

As the afternoon sun began to dip below the horizon, we made our way to Borj Sud, a 16th-century fortress perched on a hill overlooking the city. The walk up was steep, but the panoramic views from the top were well worth the effort. From our vantage point, we could see the entire medina spread out before us, a tapestry of rooftops, minarets, and winding alleyways. The setting sun painted the sky in hues of orange and pink, casting a magical glow over the city. The views were amazing. Saoirse took so many photos. The fort itself was interesting, and had beautiful gardens. I learned that it was built in 1582 by the Saadian dynasty, and was modelled after Portuguese forts of the time. Hans, ever the history buff, regaled us with tales of sultans and sieges, bringing the ancient fortress to life. It was a perfect spot for photography enthusiasts. It was easy to see why it’s known as a prime lookout point over the old city.


Explore Borj Sud in Fes, Morocco - a historical landmark that offers stunning views and a glimpse into the region's rich past.

Before dinner, I wanted to experience one of the antiques shops in Fes. I had heard that Fes Antiques had a variety of unique and rare Moroccan antiques. I was hoping to find something unique, a piece of Fassi history to bring back to Berlin. While I didn’t end up purchasing anything, it was fun to see the various artefacts, from jewellery to furniture to art.


Explore Fes Antiques: A mesmerizing blend of art, antiques, and Moroccan craftsmanship in a unique gift shop experience.

For our final culinary experience of the day, we chose L'Amandier for dinner, a restaurant renowned for its refined Moroccan cuisine and stunning views. Located in Palais Faraj, the restaurant offered a sophisticated ambiance and a menu that celebrated the best of Fassi gastronomy. We had a tajine, which was delicious. The service was excellent. From our table on the terrace, we watched as the lights of the medina twinkled below, creating a romantic and unforgettable setting. I also tried the Moroccan salads, which were the best!


Experience authentic Moroccan cuisine at L'Amandier in Fes - a culinary journey filled with rich flavors and warm hospitality.

As we walked back to our riad, the sounds of the city faded into a gentle hum, the scent of jasmine lingering in the air. Today had been a whirlwind of experiences, a sensory feast that had left us feeling deeply connected to the spirit of Fes. From the warmth of the cooking class to the grandeur of Borj Sud, every moment had been a revelation, a reminder of the beauty and richness of Moroccan culture.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Mosque and University Kairaouine, Fes El Jdid, and El Glaoui Palace. I’m also hoping we can stop by the British Saloon for a drink in the evening!