Family Adventure in the Heart of Fes

Whispers of History in Fes

Today, Fes unfolded like a beautifully aged map, revealing layers of history and culture at every turn. From the hallowed halls of the Mosque and University Kairaouine to the intriguing stories hidden within the walls of Fes El Jdid and the El Glaoui Palace, it was a day of profound discovery. I felt like an archaeologist, brushing away the sands of time to uncover the treasures beneath.

Our day began with breakfast at Dar Roumana. The pastries were delightful, setting a sweet tone for the adventures ahead. It's amazing how a simple meal can become a cherished memory when shared in such a beautiful setting. Saoirse was particularly taken with the mint tea, declaring it far superior to anything she’s ever had in Berlin. Hans, ever the pragmatist, appreciated the strong coffee, gearing up for a day of navigating the Fassi maze.

Our first stop was the famed Mosque and University Kairaouine. While non-Muslims can’t enter the mosque itself, just being near this ancient center of learning was awe-inspiring. The university, founded in 859 AD, is one of the oldest in the world, a testament to Fes's enduring intellectual and spiritual significance. I imagined scholars from centuries ago, poring over manuscripts and engaging in lively debates. I tried to explain the significance to Saoirse, drawing parallels to the universities back in Ireland, but I think the sheer number of cats lounging around the entrance held her attention more. She did ask a lot of questions about the history and that made my heart swell.


Explore the Mosque and University of Kairaouine in Fes, a historic center of learning and stunning Islamic architecture that enchants every traveler.

The past is never dead. It's not even past.

Next, we ventured into Fes El Jdid, the 'New Fes,' which, ironically, dates back to the 13th century. This part of the city, built by the Marinid dynasty, has a different feel than the older Fes el Bali. The architecture is more structured, with wider streets and grander entrances. We explored the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, with its distinctive balconies and স্টার-of-David emblems adorning some of the buildings. The sense of history here was palpable, a reminder of the diverse communities that have called Fes home over the centuries. Saoirse was fascinated by the stories of the Jewish community and their contributions to the city's cultural tapestry.


Discover the rich history and vibrant culture of Fes El Jdid, where ancient architecture and local traditions intertwine in a Moroccan treasure.

For lunch, we chose Restaurant Dar Alaoui, a charming spot tucked away in a quiet corner of the medina. The tagine was superb, infused with the rich flavors of saffron, ginger, and preserved lemon. Hans, who is usually quite reserved, even admitted it was one of the best meals he’d had in a long time. Saoirse, predictably, stuck to the simpler fare of grilled chicken and couscous, but she cleaned her plate with gusto.


Discover the essence of Moroccan cuisine at Restaurant Dar Alaoui in Fes—where tradition meets flavor in every dish.

After lunch, we sought out the El Glaoui Palace, a hidden gem that once belonged to the powerful Glaoui family. This palace, unlike some of the more meticulously restored sites, felt raw and authentic, with crumbling walls and faded mosaics that whispered stories of a bygone era. Exploring its labyrinthine corridors, I felt like I was stepping back in time, imagining the opulent lifestyle of the Glaoui family and the political intrigue that once filled these halls. Saoirse loved exploring the palace's hidden nooks and crannies, pretending to be a princess discovering secret passages. It was a moment of pure joy, watching her imagination come to life in such a historical setting.


Experience the splendor of El Glaoui Palace in Fes, a stunning historical site showcasing exquisite Moroccan architecture and rich cultural heritage.

As the sun began to set, we found ourselves drawn to the British Saloon for an early evening drink. It felt a bit out of place amidst the traditional Moroccan architecture, but it offered a welcome respite and a chance to reflect on the day's adventures. Sipping on a refreshing drink, I watched as the city lights began to twinkle, casting a magical glow over the ancient streets.


Discover the vibrant British Saloon in Fes, where local charm meets British bar culture for an unforgettable night out.

Dinner at Nur was an experience in itself. This modern restaurant offers a contemporary take on Moroccan cuisine, with innovative dishes that are as visually stunning as they are delicious. The tasting menu was a culinary journey, each course a work of art that showcased the chef's creativity and skill. Hans, ever the adventurous eater, savored every bite, while Saoirse was a bit more hesitant, but ultimately impressed by the bold flavors and inventive presentation. It was a fitting end to a day of exploring the old and the new in Fes.


Experience the essence of Moroccan cuisine at Nur in Fes - where tradition meets innovation in every delicious bite.

As I sit here now, writing this entry, I can still feel the echoes of the day's discoveries. The weight of history, the vibrant energy of the medina, and the warmth of the Moroccan people have all left an indelible mark on my soul. Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Henna Souk and pottery, wander through Bab Mahrouk, and visit the Merinide Necropole. I’m particularly excited about finding a unique scarf in the world. Each day in Fes is a new adventure, a chance to uncover more of its hidden treasures and create lasting memories with my family.

Fes is a city that invites you to get lost in its labyrinthine streets and discover its hidden corners. It’s a place where the past and present coexist in a vibrant tapestry of culture, history, and tradition. And as I drift off to sleep tonight, I can’t help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience this magical city with my loved ones.