Exploring Kanazawa: A Family Adventure in Japan

Day 6: A Journey Back in Time: Exploring Shirakawa-go and Suganuma's Gassho-style Villages

Step back in time with a visit to Shirakawa-go and Suganuma, exploring traditional Gassho-style farmhouses nestled in the Japanese Alps.

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Whispers of the Past


Today was a day of stepping back in time, a journey into the heart of old Japan. We ventured into the mountain villages of Shirakawa-go and Suganuma, where the iconic Gassho-style farmhouses stand as testaments to a way of life that has endured for centuries. It was an experience that touched all of us, especially Linnea, who was captivated by the unique architecture and the stories these villages held.

Our day began with breakfast at Plat Home - Kanazawa Kitchen. Maximilian had read rave reviews, and we were eager to experience the creative cuisine it promised. The restaurant was indeed a gem, serving innovative dishes that put a modern twist on traditional flavors. I opted for a delightful combination of local seafood and fresh vegetables, while Maximilian enjoyed a hearty plate of grilled fish. Linnea, ever the adventurous eater, surprised us by devouring a small portion of sardine sashimi. The chef was incredibly friendly, explaining each dish with passion and making our experience even more special.

Explore innovative dishes at Plat Home - Kanazawa Kitchen, where local flavors meet creative cuisine in a cozy bar setting.
Explore innovative dishes at Plat Home - Kanazawa Kitchen, where local flavors meet creative cuisine in a cozy bar setting.

After breakfast, we set off for Shirakawa-go. The drive itself was stunning, winding through lush green mountains and alongside crystal-clear rivers. As we approached the village, the distinctive Gassho-style farmhouses came into view, their steep thatched roofs resembling hands clasped in prayer. It was a sight that truly took my breath away.

Explore Shirakawa-go: A UNESCO Heritage Site with captivating gassho-zukuri houses and breathtaking views of the Japanese Alps, perfect for cultural immersion.
Explore Shirakawa-go: A UNESCO Heritage Site with captivating gassho-zukuri houses and breathtaking views of the Japanese Alps, perfect for cultural immersion.

We spent the morning exploring Shirakawa-go, wandering through the narrow streets and admiring the meticulously preserved houses. The village was bustling with tourists, but it was easy to find moments of tranquility, especially in the surrounding rice paddies. Linnea was fascinated by the colorful flora, especially the hydrangeas and sunflowers blooming side by side. We even spotted a beautiful white Shiba Inu, which Linnea immediately wanted to take home with us.

For lunch, we stopped at Daimyo Chaya, a restaurant known for its traditional Kaga cuisine. Maximilian and I decided to try the mini Kaiseki "Hagoromo", a multi-course meal featuring seasonal ingredients and local delicacies. Each dish was a work of art, beautifully presented and bursting with flavor. Linnea, meanwhile, happily munched on a bowl of udon noodles.

Experience exquisite crab dishes and authentic kaiseki cuisine at Daimyo Chaya in Kanazawa – a true culinary delight!
Experience exquisite crab dishes and authentic kaiseki cuisine at Daimyo Chaya in Kanazawa – a true culinary delight!

The beauty of these villages lies not just in their picturesque landscapes, but in the enduring spirit of the people who have called them home for generations.


In the afternoon, we continued our journey to the World Heritage Suganuma Gassho-zukuri Village. Unlike Shirakawa-go, Suganuma was much quieter and less crowded, offering a more intimate glimpse into traditional village life. The village is smaller, consisting of nine Gassho-style farmhouses, ancient storehouses, and serene rural landscapes.

Explore Suganuma Gassho-zukuri Village, a UNESCO World Heritage site showcasing traditional Japanese architecture in the stunning Toyama mountains.
Explore Suganuma Gassho-zukuri Village, a UNESCO World Heritage site showcasing traditional Japanese architecture in the stunning Toyama mountains.

We explored the Gokayama Folk Museum, which provided fascinating insights into the history and traditions of the region. Linnea was particularly intrigued by the exhibits on washi paper making and saltpeter production, two industries that sustained the village for centuries. We also visited the Ensho-no-Yakata building, where we learned about the culture and lifestyle of Japan’s forefathers.

One of the highlights of Suganuma was the unique elevator that connected the village to the parking lot on the hill. It was a fun and convenient way to access the village, and it offered stunning panoramic views of the surrounding mountains.

As the day drew to a close, we reflected on the incredible journey we had taken through time. Shirakawa-go and Suganuma are more than just picturesque villages; they are living museums that offer a glimpse into a way of life that is both timeless and deeply rooted in Japanese culture.

For dinner, we decided to indulge in a truly special experience at Installation Table ENSO L'asymetrie du calme. This French restaurant, set in a remodeled dressmaking school building, is known for its innovative and artistic cuisine. The chef, Makoto Doi, creates original French-based courses using local and seasonal ingredients. Both lunch and dinner are Omakase (chef's choice).

Experience exquisite French cuisine in the serene ambiance of Kanazawa's Installation Table ENSO L'asymetrie du calme.
Experience exquisite French cuisine in the serene ambiance of Kanazawa's Installation Table ENSO L'asymetrie du calme.

The restaurant's name reflects the chef's passion for art and his desire to create a dining experience that engages all the senses. "Installation" refers to the art of experiencing an entire space as a work of art, while "ENSO" means "seasoning only with salt" in Japanese cuisine. "L'asymetrie" signifies asymmetry, and "Calm" represents silence.

The meal was a culinary journey, with each dish a masterpiece of flavor and presentation. We savored the chef's carefully chosen wines, primarily domestic Japanese vintages, which perfectly complemented the cuisine. The service was impeccable, and the ambiance was both elegant and relaxing. Although Linnea is typically in bed long before our reservation, the staff were so accommodating, and she was able to enjoy a specially prepared, simple dish before drifting off to sleep.

To cap off the evening, Maximilian and I decided to check out Sturgis, a local bar known for its rock music. It was a fun and lively spot, with a mix of locals and tourists. We enjoyed a couple of drinks and listened to some classic rock tunes before heading back to the hotel. It was the perfect way to end a day filled with history, culture, and culinary delights.

Discover the vibrant nightlife and unique drinks at Sturgis, a must-visit bar in Kanazawa, Japan.
Discover the vibrant nightlife and unique drinks at Sturgis, a must-visit bar in Kanazawa, Japan.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Nishi Chaya District, visit the Kanazawa Nishi-chaya Museum, and do some shopping at KANAZAWA M'ZA [Nishi Chaya District, Kanazawa Nishi-chaya Museum, KANAZAWA M'ZA]. I’m also looking forward to trying Curio Espresso and Vintage Design Café for breakfast, Pizzeria e Trattoria Da TAKE for lunch, and Teppanyaki makibi san-an for dinner [Curio Espresso and Vintage Design Café, Pizzeria e Trattoria Da TAKE, Teppanyaki makibi san-an]. It promises to be another exciting day in Kanazawa!

The summer heat made the day a bit tiring, and I realized I had forgotten to pack our travel adapter and rain ponchos. It would have been great to have the adapter to ensure we could charge all of our devices and the rain ponchos in case of a sudden downpour.

Despite the little hiccups, it was a day to remember. As we settled back at the hotel, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to share these experiences with my family. These are the moments that make travel so rewarding, the memories that we will cherish for years to come. I am also grateful for the opportunity to share these experiences with you, dear readers. Until tomorrow!

Go to day 5 A Day of Serenity and Flavors in Kanazawa
Go to day 7 A Stroll Through Time: Discovering Kanazawa's Nishi Chaya District
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Exploring Kanazawa: A Family Adventure in Japan

Discover the charm of Kanazawa with my family as we explore historic districts, stunning gardens, and rich cultural experiences in Japan.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Astrid Eriksson
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Librarian at Heidelberg University
  • Country icon Country: Germany
  • Age icon Age: 36

Hej! I'm Astrid, a librarian from Heidelberg with a heart full of wanderlust and a passion for sharing my travel experiences. Originally from Sweden, I've embraced the beauty of Germany, but my soul yearns to explore every corner of the world. Through my blog, I hope to inspire you to embark on your own adventures, discover new cultures, and create lasting memories. Join me as I share my personal anecdotes, practical travel tips, and a touch of Scandinavian charm.

Interests:
  • Scandinavian folklore
  • Sustainable living
  • Modern literature
  • European history
  • Photography
More about Astrid Eriksson

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