A Solo Adventure into the Heart of Yakushima

A Forest of Firsts

The journey to Yakushima National Park was long, but stepping onto this island felt like entering another world. The air is thick with moisture and the scent of cedar, a welcome change from the dry mountain air I'm used to in Banff. I'm eager to explore and capture the essence of this ancient place. My first day was all about immersing myself in the natural wonders of Yakushima National Park and Yakusugi Land, a promising start to my solo adventure.


Explore the ancient forests and breathtaking landscapes of Yakushima National Park, a jewel of Japan's natural heritage and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

After arriving at Yakushima Airport, the first order of business was breakfast. I decided to try the Yakushima Airport Restaurant. It had a certain old-school charm, reminding me of the traditional soba shops I’d read about. I got myself a meal ticket and ordered a simple but satisfying breakfast. Fuelled up, I was ready to start exploring.


Experience authentic Japanese regional cuisine at Yakushima Airport Restaurant - where flavor meets nature's beauty.

My initial plan to find accommodation immediately went out the window. The lure of the forest was too strong. I decided to head straight to Yakusugi Land. As I made my way, I couldn't help but notice the humidity. July in Yakushima is definitely warm and wet, a stark contrast to the crisp mountain air of Banff. I was glad I packed my rain gear, although I seemed to have forgotten insect repellent. Note to self: buy some at the Yakushima Market!


Explore Yakusugi Land: a UNESCO World Heritage nature preserve in Yakushima known for its ancient cedar trees and stunning hiking trails.

Yakusugi Land is aptly named. It's a realm of ancient cedars, some over a thousand years old. The park offers various hiking courses, and I opted for a moderate one, wanting to get a good feel for the landscape without overdoing it on my first day. The trails were well-maintained, winding through lush, moss-covered forests. It felt like stepping into a Ghibli film, the air thick with mist and the sound of trickling water.

The forest was alive, breathing with stories whispered through the rustling leaves and the creaking of ancient branches.

I spent hours wandering through Yakusugi Land, camera in hand, trying to capture the majesty of the ancient trees. The Yakusugi cedars are truly magnificent, their gnarled trunks and sprawling branches testaments to centuries of resilience. I was particularly captivated by the Buddhasugi, a sentinel tree whose trunk was almost as wide as the tree was tall. The interplay of light and shadow through the dense canopy created an ethereal atmosphere, perfect for photography.

I paused frequently, listening to the sounds of the forest, the gentle breeze rustling through the leaves, the chirping of unseen birds. It was a symphony of nature, a stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of city life. I felt a sense of peace and connection, a reminder of the importance of preserving these ancient ecosystems.

Leaving Yakusugi Land, my stomach reminded me it was lunchtime. I decided to try Katagiri Flying Fish Restaurant. I had read reviews praising their Flying fish dishes, a local delicacy. I opted for the Flying fish Hitsumabushi. This dish is similar to the 'Teriyaki' taste. It is chopped 'kabayaki' flying fish on rice served in a lacquer ware container called 'Hitsu' You can enjoy this dish in three unique ways. It was delicious, and the local draft beer was the perfect accompaniment. I made a mental note to try their Flying-fish pasta before leaving Yakushima.


Experience authentic Japanese regional cuisine with an Italian twist at Katagiri Flying Fish Restaurant on beautiful Yakushima Island.

With the afternoon stretching ahead, I ventured towards Yakushima National Park. The park encompasses a large part of the island, offering diverse landscapes and ecosystems. I drove along the western area, known for its dense laurel forests. Soon enough, I encountered the Yakushima macaques and Yakushima deer. They seemed unfazed by my presence, going about their business as I snapped photos. I was mindful of keeping a respectful distance, observing them in their natural habitat.

As the sun began to dip towards the horizon, I decided to head towards my final stop for the day: Yakushima Gallery Restaurant for dinner. I had read about its panoramic views and local cuisine. The restaurant lived up to its reputation, offering stunning vistas of the surrounding landscape. I enjoyed a delicious meal of local seafood, savoring the fresh flavors and reflecting on the day's adventures.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, where local flavors meet traditional techniques in an unforgettable dining experience.

Finding accommodation proved to be more challenging than anticipated. I had naively assumed I could easily find a guesthouse upon arrival, but many places were fully booked. After a few phone calls, I finally secured a room at a small inn near the coast. It wasn't fancy, but it was clean and comfortable, and the owners were incredibly welcoming.

As I settled into my room, I couldn't help but feel a sense of accomplishment. My first day in Yakushima had been a whirlwind of exploration and discovery. I had immersed myself in the island's natural beauty, savored its local flavors, and connected with its unique culture. I was grateful for the opportunity to experience this special place, and I was excited for what tomorrow would bring.

Tomorrow, I plan to tackle the Jōmon Sugi trail, a pilgrimage to see one of the oldest and largest cedar trees on the island. I've heard it's a challenging hike, but the reward of seeing the ancient Jōmon Sugi up close is well worth the effort. I'll also be visiting Wilson's Stump, a massive hollowed-out tree stump with a fascinating history. And of course, I'll be sure to sample some local cuisine at Aqua Cafe, Wakadaisho and Matsutake. Perhaps I'll even treat myself to a drink at Cafe＆Bar RainTree after a long day of hiking.

Before drifting off to sleep, I made sure to double-check my gear and mentally prepare for the Jōmon Sugi hike. I also made a note to visit the Yakushima Market tomorrow to buy some insect repellent. Hopefully, tomorrow will be as magical as today.


Discover the vibrant Yakushima Market, where local crafts and fresh produce come together for an authentic shopping experience.

Yakushima has already captured my heart, and I can't wait to see what other wonders this island holds. This solo adventure is turning out to be exactly what I needed – a chance to reconnect with nature, challenge myself physically and mentally, and find inspiration in the beauty of the natural world.

Banff feels a world away, and Liam's probably managing the brewery with his usual Irish charm. I miss him, of course, but I know he understands my need for these solo adventures. They're a chance for me to recharge, to find new inspiration, and to bring back stories and images to share with the world.

Goodnight from Yakushima. I have a date with a giant cedar tomorrow.