A Solo Adventure into the Heart of Yakushima

Echoes of the Ancients

Today was a day of pilgrimage, a journey deep into the heart of Yakushima to stand in the presence of ancient giants. The trek to Jōmon Sugi and Wilson's Stump was both physically demanding and spiritually uplifting, a reminder of the enduring power and resilience of nature. Leaving the comfort of my impromptu lodging behind, I embraced the challenge, eager to witness the silent stories etched into the rings of these venerable trees.


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.

My day began early, fueled by a quick breakfast at Aqua Cafe. The cozy atmosphere and local cuisine were a perfect start before embarking on the long journey ahead. I savored every bite, knowing that the day's hike would demand considerable energy. The cafe was bustling with other early risers, a mix of locals and tourists, all drawn to Yakushima's natural wonders.


Discover Aqua Cafe in Yakushima - where exquisite local cuisine meets breathtaking nature in a cozy dining experience.

With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I made my way to the trailhead. The air was thick with humidity, a typical July morning on the island. The forecast predicted a chance of rain, so I double-checked my rain gear, grateful for my foresight. As I started the ascent, the sounds of civilization faded, replaced by the symphony of the forest—the rustling of leaves, the chirping of unseen birds, and the gentle murmur of mountain streams.

The initial part of the Jōmon Sugi trail followed an old railway track, a relatively flat and easy path that allowed me to find my rhythm. The remnants of Yakushima's logging history were evident, a poignant reminder of the island's past. I couldn't help but reflect on the delicate balance between human needs and environmental preservation. It's a theme that resonates deeply with me, especially given my background in wildlife photography.

The forest is not a resource to be exploited, but a sanctuary to be revered.

After a couple of hours on the railway, the trail began to ascend, winding deeper into the ancient forest. The path became steeper and more challenging, requiring careful footing and a steady pace. The trees grew taller and more majestic, their gnarled branches reaching towards the sky like supplicating arms. The forest floor was a carpet of moss, a vibrant green tapestry that softened every step.

Finally, I reached Wilson's Stump, an enormous remnant of a tree felled centuries ago. The sheer size of the stump was awe-inspiring, a testament to the scale of the ancient cedars that once dominated this landscape. I ventured inside the stump, marveling at the intricate patterns and textures of the wood. Looking up, I saw a heart-shaped opening, a whimsical touch that added to the magic of the place.


Explore the breathtaking Wilson's Stump in Yakushima, a natural wonder showcasing the island's rich biodiversity and stunning landscapes.

Continuing on, the trail grew even steeper, testing my endurance with every step. The air thinned, and my breath came in ragged gasps. But the thought of reaching Jōmon Sugi kept me going, the promise of witnessing one of the world's oldest trees fueling my determination. Along the way, I passed fellow hikers, exchanging words of encouragement and sharing in the collective awe of the surroundings.

And then, there it was—Jōmon Sugi, standing proudly on a high ground, its ancient presence commanding respect and reverence. The tree is estimated to be between 2,600 and 7,200 years old, a living monument to the passage of time. I stood in silence, gazing at its weathered bark and gnarled branches, feeling a profound connection to the natural world.

The viewing platform was crowded with other hikers, but the atmosphere was one of quiet contemplation. Everyone seemed to be lost in their own thoughts, reflecting on the significance of this ancient tree. I took several photographs, trying to capture the essence of Jōmon Sugi, but I knew that no image could truly convey its grandeur and majesty.

After spending some time in the presence of Jōmon Sugi, I began the long descent. The return journey was just as challenging as the ascent, but I was buoyed by a sense of accomplishment and gratitude. As I made my way back, I couldn't help but think about tomorrow's itinerary, which includes a visit to Shiratani Unsui Gorge and the Drum rock (Taiko-iwa). I’m excited to see what other wonders Yakushima has in store.

Back in Miyanoura, I treated myself to a well-deserved dinner at Matsutake. The soba noodles were delicious, a perfect way to replenish my energy after a long day of hiking. The cozy atmosphere and friendly service added to the experience, making me feel like a local.


Discover authentic soba noodles at Matsutake in Yakushima – where tradition meets flavor amidst stunning natural beauty.

After dinner, I decided to unwind at Cafe＆Bar RainTree. The karaoke was in full swing, and the energy was infectious. I even sang a few songs, much to the amusement of the other patrons. It was a fun and lighthearted way to end a day of profound experiences.


Experience the unique blend of café culture and karaoke fun at Cafe＆Bar RainTree in Yakushima's enchanting landscapes.

As I reflect on today's journey, I am filled with a sense of awe and gratitude. Yakushima is a truly special place, a sanctuary of ancient forests and natural beauty. The hike to Jōmon Sugi and Wilson's Stump was a challenging but ultimately rewarding experience, a reminder of the enduring power and resilience of nature. I look forward to tomorrow's adventures, eager to explore more of this magical island.

While I was enjoying a quiet drink at Cafe＆Bar RainTree, I started thinking about Liam. He would have loved this hike. I made a mental note to bring him here someday. I know he'd appreciate the tranquility and the raw beauty of Yakushima. Plus, I could already imagine him belting out some Irish folk songs at the karaoke bar, much to the delight (or perhaps horror) of the locals.

I also realized that I had forgotten my Japanese phrasebook! It would have been useful when ordering food or asking for directions. I'll definitely need to pick one up before heading out again tomorrow. Maybe I'll find a small shop in Miyanoura that sells them. It's always good to be able to communicate with the locals, even if it's just a few basic phrases.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit Shiratani Unsui Gorge, known as the inspiration for Princess Mononoke, and hike to Drum Rock (Taiko-iwa) for panoramic views. I'm also hoping to visit YAWARACA “The Scent of Yakushima LAB” to learn about local fragrances. I'll start the day with breakfast at hiyoriya, have lunch at Kamogawa Restaurant, and dinner at Il Mare. It sounds like another day filled with exploration and discovery, and I can't wait to see what Yakushima has in store for me.

I'm also starting to think about accommodations for the rest of my trip. I haven't booked anything in advance, preferring to keep my itinerary flexible. But I should probably start looking into some options, especially since it's the busy season. Maybe I'll ask the locals for recommendations. They always know the best places to stay.

Tonight, I'll sleep soundly, dreaming of ancient cedars and moss-covered forests. Yakushima has cast its spell on me, and I am eager to continue my exploration of this magical island. The memories of today will stay with me long after I leave, a reminder of the enduring power and beauty of the natural world.