A Solo Adventure into the Heart of Yakushima

Day 3: Whispers of the Ancient Forest: A Day Amidst Yakushima's Mystical Gorge

Embark on a soul-stirring journey through Yakushima's Shiratani Unsui Gorge and Drum Rock, where nature's ancient whispers echo.

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Echoes in the Emerald Canopy


Today was a day of deep immersion, a day where the ancient forests of Yakushima truly spoke to me. It wasn't just about seeing; it was about feeling the pulse of this island, a place where time seems to slow and the veil between worlds thins. The air was thick with moisture, the kind that clings to your skin and fills your lungs with the scent of life and I was more than ready to explore.

My day began, as all good days should, with a hearty breakfast at hiyoriya. I'd read about this place, a small restaurant known for its dedication to local ingredients and traditional Japanese cuisine. It was a cozy spot, and the food was exactly what I needed to fuel my explorations. It was a wonderful start to the day, and I was excited to explore the wonders that awaited me in Yakushima.

With a full stomach and an eager heart, I set off to the famed Shiratani Unsui Gorge. It had rained overnight, and the forest was glistening, every leaf and moss-covered stone sparkling under the filtered sunlight. The Shiratani Unsui Gorge is known as the inspiration for Hayao Miyazaki's film, Princess Mononoke, and as I walked deeper into the forest, it was easy to see why. The air was thick with moisture, and the forest floor was covered in a carpet of moss, with the sounds of the flowing water and birds singing. It felt like stepping into another world, a world of ancient spirits and hidden wonders.

Explore the lush beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a scenic gem in Yakushima, featuring ancient cedar forests and stunning hiking trails.
Explore the lush beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a scenic gem in Yakushima, featuring ancient cedar forests and stunning hiking trails.

The trail wound its way along the Shiratani River, a constant companion with its gentle murmur. Towering yakusugi cedars, some over a thousand years old, stood guard, their gnarled branches reaching towards the sky like supplicating arms. I stopped frequently, my camera clicking, trying to capture the essence of this place, but a photograph could never truly convey the feeling of being there, surrounded by such ancient beauty. I even spotted a few macaques going about their business, a reminder of the vibrant life that thrives in this protected ecosystem. I was so happy to see the wildlife thriving in their natural habitat.

In the heart of Yakushima's forests, time ceases to exist, and the whispers of ancient cedars become the soundtrack to a soul-stirring journey.


After a fulfilling morning hike, I decided to stop by Kamogawa Restaurant for lunch. I was told they offer local dishes such as flying fish, and I was eager to try it. It was a no-frills kind of place, but the food was delicious and the staff were friendly. As I enjoyed my meal, I couldn't help but think about the incredible experiences I had so far and the ones that still awaited me.

Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Kamogawa Restaurant in picturesque Yakushima - where tradition meets culinary excellence.
Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Kamogawa Restaurant in picturesque Yakushima - where tradition meets culinary excellence.

Refueled, I continued my journey towards Drum Rock, or Taiko-iwa as the locals call it. The trail to Drum Rock was a bit more challenging, a steady climb that tested my stamina. But the reward was well worth the effort. As I emerged onto the massive granite boulder, the view unfolded before me in all its glory. From this vantage point at approximately 1,050 meters above sea level, the panoramic vista of Yakushima was breathtaking. Mountains stretched as far as the eye could see, their peaks shrouded in mist, and the ocean sparkled in the distance. I could see why this spot was so popular, and I felt grateful to be there, witnessing such natural beauty. I took a few moments to sit down and enjoy the stillness of the view.

Explore the breathtaking Taiko-iwa, a spectacular hiking destination in Yakushima, offering stunning views, rich biodiversity, and cultural significance.
Explore the breathtaking Taiko-iwa, a spectacular hiking destination in Yakushima, offering stunning views, rich biodiversity, and cultural significance.

The rock itself is named for the drum-like sound it makes when struck, a phenomenon I, of course, had to try. It was a long hike but the views were breathtaking. I made sure to capture it with my camera and hoped that my pictures would do justice to what I saw. I also made a mental note to buy a hiking stick before my next hike. My knees were definitely feeling the strain by the end of the hike.

As the afternoon wore on, I decided to visit YAWARACA “The Scent of Yakushima LAB”. I wanted to find a unique souvenir that would remind me of my time on the island. This charming shop specializes in aromatherapy products made from Yakushima cedar, embracing a zero-waste philosophy by utilizing by-products from their essential oil production. The shop was filled with the soothing aroma of cedar, and I spent a happy hour exploring the various products, from essential oils to handcrafted soaps. I ended up buying a small bottle of cedarwood oil and a beautifully packaged soap set, perfect reminders of the island's natural beauty.

Explore YAWARACA in Yakushima for exquisite home goods that celebrate local craftsmanship and the island's natural beauty.
Explore YAWARACA in Yakushima for exquisite home goods that celebrate local craftsmanship and the island's natural beauty.

For dinner, I chose Il Mare, an Italian restaurant known for its seafood dishes and pasta. I was a bit surprised to find Italian cuisine on a remote Japanese island, but the reviews were good, and I was in the mood for something different. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, and the menu featured a variety of Italian dishes with a local twist. I opted for a seafood pasta, and it was delicious, the flavors fresh and vibrant. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration, a satisfying meal in a beautiful setting. I stayed 2 nights at Yakushima, had dinner here the first night and decided I had to come back for one of the loveliest, fluffiest and lightest pizza doughs I've ever had.

Discover Il Mare in Yakushima for an unforgettable Italian dining experience amidst stunning natural beauty.
Discover Il Mare in Yakushima for an unforgettable Italian dining experience amidst stunning natural beauty.

As I reflect on the day, I am struck by the sheer diversity of experiences Yakushima offers. From the serene beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge to the panoramic views from Drum Rock, from the fragrant cedar products at YAWARACA to the delicious Italian cuisine at Il Mare, every moment was a feast for the senses. I am grateful for the opportunity to explore this magical island, to connect with nature, and to discover the hidden gems that make Yakushima so special. I’m already looking forward to tomorrow, where I plan to visit Senpiro Falls and the Yakushima World Heritage Conservation Center. I am also planning to stop by Ganta for a drink in the evening. I'm sure it will be another day filled with wonder and discovery.

Tomorrow, I'm planning on visiting Senpiro Falls and the Yakushima World Heritage Conservation Center. I'm also planning to stop by Ganta for a drink in the evening. I'm sure it will be another day filled with wonder and discovery. I’m also going to try and remember to buy insect repellent before I head out.

As I prepare for another day of exploration, I'm reminded of a quote that perfectly encapsulates the essence of Yakushima:

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.


And indeed, Yakushima has given me more than I ever could have imagined. It's a place that nourishes the soul, awakens the senses, and reminds us of the beauty and fragility of our planet. I am eager to continue my journey, to uncover more of the island's secrets, and to share my experiences with you all. Until tomorrow, may your own travels be filled with wonder and discovery.

Go to day 2 Whispers of Ancient Cedars: A Day Among Giants in Yakushima
Go to day 4 Chasing Waterfalls and Heritage on Yakushima
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A Solo Adventure into the Heart of Yakushima

Explore the ancient forests and diverse wildlife of Yakushima on a solo journey, capturing the island's mystique through the lens of a wildlife photographer.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Astrid Nilsen
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Wildlife Photographer
  • Country icon Country: Canada
  • Age icon Age: 33

Hi, I'm Astrid, a Norwegian wildlife photographer based in Banff, Canada. I grew up surrounded by nature in Norway, and my passion for photography led me to explore the world's most stunning landscapes. I share my adventures and photography tips here to inspire others to connect with nature and appreciate its beauty. Join me as I capture the wild wonders of our planet!

Interests:
  • Wildlife conservation
  • Sustainable living
  • Nordic mythology
  • Mountaineering
  • Glaciology
More about Astrid Nilsen

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Explore locations from this diary

  • Shiratani Unsui Gorge

    Explore the lush beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a scenic gem in Yakushima, featuring ancient cedar forests and stunning hiking trails.

  • Drum rock (Taiko-iwa)

    Explore the breathtaking Taiko-iwa, a spectacular hiking destination in Yakushima, offering stunning views, rich biodiversity, and cultural significance.

  • hiyoriya

    Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Hiyoriya in Yakushima, where fresh local ingredients meet traditional flavors amidst breathtaking scenery.

  • Kamogawa Restaurant

    Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Kamogawa Restaurant in picturesque Yakushima - where tradition meets culinary excellence.

  • Il Mare

    Discover Il Mare in Yakushima for an unforgettable Italian dining experience amidst stunning natural beauty.

  • YAWARACA “The Scent of Yakushima LAB”

    Explore YAWARACA in Yakushima for exquisite home goods that celebrate local craftsmanship and the island's natural beauty.

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