Solo Expedition to Iceland's Hornstrandir Nature Reserve

A Symphony of Senses

Today was a day of embracing the wild heart of Hornstrandir, a sensory symphony conducted by the Icelandic landscape. From the tantalizing aromas of freshly caught seafood to the awe-inspiring sight of a hidden waterfall, every moment was a testament to the raw beauty and untamed spirit of this remote corner of the world.

The day began, as many have here, with a hearty breakfast at Jötunn restaurant in Ísafjörður. The town itself, nestled at the end of Skutulsfjörður, felt like a vibrant hub before venturing deeper into the wilderness. It's amazing how a population of around 2,600 can feel so cosmopolitan. Jötunn, with its elegantly presented dishes focusing on fresh, local ingredients, provided the perfect fuel for the day's adventures. I savored every bite, knowing that the energy would be essential for the hike ahead. It was a comforting start, a reminder of the simple luxuries before fully immersing myself in nature's embrace. I made sure to take in the views, knowing that I will be heading back to Banff soon enough, to Liam and the familiar comforts of home.

Fuelled and ready, I set out towards Möngufoss (Hlíðarhús), a waterfall tucked away in the Unadalur valley. The journey itself was an experience, a winding path through the dramatic landscapes that define Hornstrandir. The anticipation grew with each step, the promise of a hidden gem fueling my determination. The weather was moody as it usually is in Iceland, with a chance of snow.

The best view comes after the hardest climb.

Reaching Möngufoss was like stepping into a secret world. The waterfall cascaded down a rocky cliff, a secluded spectacle far from the crowds. The sheer power of the water, the mist kissing my face, the echoes of nature's symphony – it was a moment of pure, unadulterated awe. I spent what felt like an eternity simply absorbing the scene, my camera capturing the essence of this hidden paradise. It was moments like these that reaffirmed my love for wildlife photography, the ability to freeze a moment in time and share its beauty with the world. The hike was about 5 kilometers, and I took my time. It gave me time to reflect on my journey so far, and the incredible landscapes I have been fortunate enough to witness.


Discover the breathtaking beauty of Möngufoss waterfall in Unadhsdalur, Iceland, where nature's tranquility meets stunning landscapes.

Back in Ísafjörður, lunch at Tjöruhúsið was an absolute must. This family-run restaurant, located in a charming wooden house by the harbor, is renowned as one of the best seafood restaurants in Iceland. There's no menu; they simply serve the catch of the day, ensuring the freshest, most locally sourced flavors. The all-you-can-eat seafood buffet was a feast for the senses, a celebration of the ocean's bounty. Every dish told a story of the Icelandic waters, a testament to the country's rich maritime heritage. I savored the experience, knowing that it was more than just a meal; it was a cultural immersion. I made sure to pack warm clothing as recommended, as the terrain can be challenging.

As evening approached, I found myself drawn to Kaffi Norðurfjörður for dinner. The bistro's surroundings were enchanting, the lively Norðurfjörður harbor teeming with small boats, the surrounding mountains providing a dramatic backdrop. The menu, inspired by traditional Icelandic cuisine, featured locally sourced fish and lamb. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, a perfect setting to reflect on the day's adventures. I enjoyed a hearty meal, the flavors of Iceland dancing on my palate, feeling grateful for the opportunity to experience such a unique culinary landscape.

To cap off the day, I decided to visit Edinborg Bistro for a nightcap. This cozy bistro, known for its exceptional seafood and inviting ambiance, offered a selection of Icelandic beers on tap. It was the perfect spot to unwind, to soak in the local atmosphere, and to share stories with fellow travelers. The bistro stayed open late, and I found myself caught up in conversations, laughing and sharing experiences with newfound friends. It was a reminder that travel is not just about seeing new places, but also about connecting with people and creating lasting memories. The weather in Edinburgh is similar to that of Iceland, so I felt right at home.

Reflecting on the day, I realized that Hornstrandir is more than just a destination; it's an experience that awakens the senses and nourishes the soul. The raw beauty of the landscape, the tantalizing flavors of the local cuisine, and the warmth of the Icelandic people – it's a combination that leaves an indelible mark on the heart. As I prepare for my final day in this enchanting wilderness, I carry with me a deep sense of gratitude and a longing to return. Tomorrow, I plan to visit Krossneslaug, and maybe do some last minute shopping at The Fjord Hub. The adventure is almost over, but the memories will last a lifetime. This trip has been everything I hoped for and more, and I am excited to share my experiences with Liam when I return to Banff.

The weather forecast for tomorrow is similar to today, so I will be sure to pack accordingly. I will also make sure to have my camera ready to capture any last minute shots of the wildlife in Hornstrandir. I am also looking forward to trying the local cuisine at Restaurant Galdur - Seafood Restaurant, Cafe Restaurant Dunhagi, and Hópið.

As the midnight sun casts its ethereal glow over Hornstrandir, I am filled with a sense of peace and contentment. This journey has been a reminder of the power of nature to heal and inspire, and I am grateful for every moment spent in this untouched wilderness. Goodnight from Iceland.