Family Adventure in Yakushima: Exploring Nature's Paradise

A Journey Back in Time

Today was a day of pilgrimage, a venture deep into the heart of Yakushima's ancient forests. Leaving behind the familiar comforts of our guesthouse, we embarked on a quest to connect with nature on a scale that humbles the soul. It was a day filled with awe, wonder, and a profound respect for the enduring power of the natural world.

The day began with an early start at Aqua Cafe in the cozy town of [insert town]. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee and the promise of a hearty breakfast of omurice prepared us for the day's adventures. Nadia was particularly excited, chattering about the trees we were about to see, her enthusiasm infectious even at that early hour. Liam and I shared a knowing glance, anticipating the wonder that awaited us. The weather forecast predicted rain, a common occurrence in Yakushima, so we donned our rain gear, a travel essential we've come to appreciate.


Discover Aqua Cafe in Yakushima - where exquisite local cuisine meets breathtaking nature in a cozy dining experience.

Our first destination was the legendary Jōmon Sugi, a cedar estimated to be between 2,170 and 7,200 years old. To get there, we took a bus to the Arakawa Trailhead. From March to November, private cars aren't allowed on the access road, so the bus is the way to go. The bus ride itself was an experience, winding through lush landscapes, offering glimpses of the island's stunning beauty. Upon arriving at the trailhead, we joined a diverse group of hikers, all eager to witness the ancient giant.


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The hike to Jōmon Sugi is not for the faint of heart. It's a 21.2km round trip that takes about 10-12 hours. The first 8km follows the old Anbo railway line, which was relatively flat and easy. Nadia enjoyed walking on the tracks, pretending to be a train conductor, her laughter echoing through the forest. The next section, the Ohkabu Trail, was a steep mountain path that required proper hiking boots. I was grateful I remembered to pack our hiking boots, a crucial item from our trip essentials.

As we ventured deeper, the forest enveloped us in its embrace. Towering Yakusugi cedars, draped in moss and ferns, lined the path, their gnarled branches reaching towards the sky. The air was thick with the scent of damp earth and ancient wood, a fragrance that spoke of centuries of undisturbed growth. We passed Wilson’s Stump, the hollowed remains of a giant cedar felled centuries ago, its interior large enough to house a small family. Looking up from inside, the sky formed a heart shape, a whimsical reminder of nature's artistry.

The forest was a cathedral, the trees its pillars, and the sunlight filtering through the canopy its stained glass.

Further along the trail, we encountered the Meoto Sugi, a pair of trees joined by a branch, symbolizing a married couple. Nadia was fascinated by the story, asking endless questions about their relationship. Liam and I exchanged a smile, cherishing our own bond amidst these ancient witnesses to time. The trail became more challenging, with steep inclines and rocky paths. We took frequent breaks, catching our breath and marveling at the surrounding scenery. The sound of rushing water accompanied us, a constant reminder of the island's abundant rainfall.

Finally, after hours of hiking, we reached the observation deck of Jōmon Sugi. The sight that greeted us was nothing short of breathtaking. The ancient cedar stood majestically, its massive trunk a testament to its incredible age. Though access to the tree itself is restricted to protect its roots, the observation deck offered a stunning view. It was hard to fathom that this tree had been standing for millennia, witnessing the rise and fall of civilizations. I felt a profound sense of connection to the earth, a reminder of the insignificance of our individual lives in the face of such enduring natural beauty.

After soaking in the awe-inspiring presence of Jōmon Sugi, we began our descent, retracing our steps along the trail. The hike back was just as challenging, but the memory of the ancient cedar spurred us on. We arrived back at the trailhead exhausted but exhilarated, our bodies aching but our spirits soaring. We boarded the bus back to town, the setting sun casting long shadows across the landscape.

Our next stop was Yakusugi Land, a natural forest park that showcases ancient Yakusugi cedar trees, some over 1,000 years old. Fortunately, Yakusugi Land was much easier to access compared to Jōmon Sugi. There are several hiking courses available, ranging from easy 30-minute walks to more challenging 3-hour treks. Given our tired legs, we opted for the 50-minute course, a gentle stroll through the ancient forest.


Explore Yakusugi Land: a UNESCO World Heritage nature preserve in Yakushima known for its ancient cedar trees and stunning hiking trails.

The trails in Yakusugi Land are well-maintained, with boardwalks and paved paths making it accessible for walkers of all fitness levels. We wandered through the moss-covered forest, marveling at the towering cedars, their massive trunks adorned with intricate patterns of bark. The air was cool and damp, the silence broken only by the rustling of leaves and the occasional birdsong. Nadia delighted in spotting tiny mushrooms and colorful insects, her curiosity piqued by the forest's hidden wonders.

While Yakusugi Land may not have the same iconic draw as Jōmon Sugi, it offered a more intimate experience with the ancient forest. We were able to get up close to the cedars, touching their rough bark and feeling their ancient energy. It was a place for quiet contemplation, a chance to connect with nature on a personal level.

As evening approached, we made our way to Cafe＆Bar RainTree for a well-deserved drink. The cozy atmosphere and friendly staff provided a welcome respite after a long day of hiking. We sipped on local craft beers, sharing stories and laughter, reliving the highlights of our day. Nadia, exhausted from her adventures, drifted off to sleep in Liam's arms, her face peaceful and content.


Experience the unique blend of café culture and karaoke fun at Cafe＆Bar RainTree in Yakushima's enchanting landscapes.

For dinner, we chose Kotobuki, a restaurant known for its traditional Japanese cuisine and its enchanting setting. The restaurant is located off the main road, up a 'castle-like' walkway which made it feel like we were stepping back in time. The food was exquisite, a multi-course meal featuring fresh, local ingredients. The flavors were delicate and nuanced, a testament to the chef's skill and artistry. The setting was equally enchanting, a traditional Japanese interior that exuded warmth and hospitality.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine and delightful sweets at Kotobuki in Yakushima—where tradition meets flavor in every bite.

As we savored our meal, I reflected on the day's experiences. We had witnessed the majesty of Jōmon Sugi, explored the serene beauty of Yakusugi Land, and connected with nature on a profound level. It was a day that had challenged our bodies, stimulated our minds, and nourished our souls. Yakushima had once again revealed its magic, reminding us of the importance of preserving these natural treasures for future generations.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the island's stunning waterfalls, including Ohko Waterfall and Senpiro Falls. I'm eager to witness the power and beauty of these natural wonders, and to continue our journey of discovery in this enchanting island paradise.

“In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.” – John Muir