Family Pilgrimage: Exploring Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Past, Echoes of the Future

Today was a day of contrasts, a journey through both the spiritual heights and the hidden depths of the Kumano region. It was a day where the echoes of ancient pilgrims met the whispers of the earth, creating a symphony of experiences that resonated deeply within me. I felt a profound connection to the land, to its history, and to the generations who have walked these paths before me.

Our day began, as most days have on this pilgrimage, with a hearty breakfast at Jokiin.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.
From there, we set out to explore the wonders that awaited us. Mei-Ling, Lin and I were very excited for today's adventure.

Our first stop was Fudarakusan-ji, a Tendai Buddhist temple with a history as deep and mysterious as the ocean it faces.


Explore the tranquility of Fudarakusan-ji, a beautiful Buddhist temple in Wakayama, Japan, where spirituality meets stunning natural landscapes.
The temple itself is beautiful in its simplicity, but it's the stories surrounding it that truly captivated me. I learned about the practice of *Fudaraku Tokai*, where monks would set sail in small boats, effectively self-sacrificing themselves in the hopes of reaching the Buddhist paradise. It's a practice that's both awe-inspiring and deeply unsettling, a testament to the power of faith and the human desire for enlightenment. Standing there, looking out at the vast expanse of the Pacific, I couldn't help but feel a sense of reverence for those brave, perhaps desperate, souls. Lin seemed especially interested in the story, asking many questions about where the monks were going and if they were scared. It's moments like these that make traveling with family so special, sharing these profound experiences and seeing the world through her curious eyes. It certainly gave us all something to think about as we continued our day. I couldn't help but feel a sense of melancholy mixed with respect for the monks and their sacrifice.

Sometimes, the greatest journeys are not those that take us across vast landscapes, but those that lead us deep within ourselves.

After absorbing the solemn atmosphere of Fudarakusan-ji, we journeyed to the Totsui Limestone Cave, a completely different kind of spiritual experience.


Discover the enchanting Totsui Limestone Cave in Wakayama, a natural wonder filled with stunning rock formations and rich geological history.
Leaving the coastal air behind, we drove inland, the landscape transforming into rolling hills and verdant forests. The cave is located a short distance from Shirasaki Ocean Park. This subterranean world, formed over 250 million years ago, offered a cool respite from the warm May sun. Although relatively small, stretching only about 100 meters, the cave is filled with fascinating stalactites and stalagmites, each one a testament to the slow, patient work of nature. As we ventured deeper, the air grew cooler, and the silence was broken only by the occasional drip of water. The kids were fascinated by the formations, pointing out shapes and figures in the rocks. I was struck by the sheer age of the place, imagining the countless years it took for these structures to form. It was a humbling reminder of the vastness of time and the insignificance of our own lives in the grand scheme of things. Mei-Ling, ever the pragmatist, was more concerned about the dampness and the potential for slipping, but even she couldn't deny the unique beauty of the cave. It was used as a lime quarry until 1945.

For lunch, we stopped at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, a charming spot in the heart of Yunomine Onsen.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.
This quaint village is known for its ancient hot springs, and the dining hall offers a taste of local cuisine in a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. We enjoyed a delicious meal of *teishoku* sets, savoring the fresh, local ingredients. The dining hall also functions as a newsstand, providing a glimpse into local life. It was a perfect place to recharge after our subterranean adventure and soak in the atmosphere of this historic village.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to the Kumano Winery Guest House for dinner.


Experience exquisite Italian cuisine and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House—your tranquil retreat in Wakayama's stunning landscapes.
This unique establishment combines a traditional guesthouse with an Italian restaurant, Dal Chef’s Table, offering a delightful fusion of cultures. The owner, Giovanni dal Bosco, is an Italian chef who came to Japan in 2013 and has created a truly special dining experience. The restaurant was even listed in the Michelin Guide in 2022. We enjoyed a delicious meal of Verona-style cuisine, made with fresh, local ingredients, many of which are grown on the property. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, and the food was simply outstanding. It was a perfect way to end a day of exploring the Kumano region. I especially enjoyed the wine, which was made with grapes grown in the nearby vineyard. It was a taste of Italy in the heart of Japan, a testament to the power of cultural exchange and the ability of food to bring people together. Chickens and goats are kept in pens near the entrance.

After dinner, we took a short walk around the property, enjoying the fresh air and the stunning views of Tanabe Bay. The kids were especially excited to see the chickens and goats that are kept on the farm. It was a peaceful, idyllic scene, a perfect end to a day of discovery.

As I reflect on today's experiences, I'm struck by the incredible diversity of the Kumano region. From the solemn spirituality of Fudarakusan-ji to the ancient wonders of the Totsui Limestone Cave, from the comforting flavors of Yunomine Onsen to the culinary fusion of Kumano Winery, this area offers a rich tapestry of experiences that appeal to all the senses. It's a place where the past and the present intertwine, where nature and culture blend seamlessly, and where the spirit of pilgrimage is still very much alive.

Tomorrow marks the final day of our pilgrimage. We plan to visit the Fushiogami Teahouse and walk along the Kumano Kodo - Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route. We will have breakfast at Jokiin, lunch at Onigajō cliff Center, and a farewell dinner at Hinoki Steak House. We also intend to visit the Moudemochi shop. I am already feeling a sense of sadness that our journey is coming to an end, but I am also filled with gratitude for the experiences we have shared and the memories we have created. I know that the spirit of Kumano will stay with us long after we have left its sacred mountains.

Before I turn in for the night, I want to mention a small mishap – or rather, a forgotten essential. In all the excitement of preparing for this trip, I completely forgot to pack a sunhat for Lin! Thankfully, we were able to find a small shop in Yunomine Onsen that sold a simple straw hat, which she happily adorned. It's a good reminder that even the most organized travelers can sometimes overlook the obvious. And perhaps, it's these little imperfections that make our journeys all the more memorable.