Family Pilgrimage: Exploring Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Past

Today was a day of deep connection with the Kumano Kodo, a day where the ancient paths seemed to whisper stories of pilgrims past. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and damp earth, the perfect setting for reflection and exploration with my family. I felt a profound sense of peace as we embarked on our journey, eager to discover the secrets hidden within these sacred mountains.

Our day began, as most days have on this trip, with a hearty and traditional Japanese breakfast at Jokiin. I always appreciate the simple, yet nourishing meals that set us up perfectly for the day's adventures. With full stomachs and spirits high, we set out to explore Kumano Kodo Park.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

The park itself is a testament to the region's commitment to preserving its natural and cultural heritage. As we wandered through the verdant trails, Lin was particularly fascinated by the towering trees and the small shrines tucked away amongst the foliage. It's moments like these, seeing the wonder in her eyes, that make these family trips so incredibly special. The park serves as a gateway to understanding the significance of the Kumano Kodo, a network of pilgrimage trails that have been traversed for over a thousand years.


Discover the breathtaking trails and spiritual heritage of Kumano Kodo Park, a serene escape in Wakayama, Japan, perfect for nature lovers and adventure seekers.

From Kumano Kodo Park, we ventured towards the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing. The climb was invigorating, the kind that makes you feel alive and connected to your body. The trail meandered through dense forests, sunlight dappling through the canopy, creating an ethereal atmosphere. I couldn't help but imagine the countless pilgrims who had walked this very path, their hopes and prayers echoing through the ages. Mei-Ling, ever the thoughtful one, pointed out the small details I might have missed – a perfectly formed spiderweb, a unique rock formation, the subtle changes in the forest's flora.


Discover the breathtaking hiking trails of Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing in Wakayama, where nature's beauty meets adventure.

The journey is the destination, and on the Kumano Kodo, every step is a meditation.

Reaching the summit of Shiomi-togego'e was a triumph. The panoramic views were breathtaking, a sweeping vista of rolling mountains and verdant valleys. We paused to catch our breath and soak in the scenery, feeling a sense of accomplishment and gratitude. Lin, of course, immediately started collecting pinecones, her pockets already overflowing with treasures from our journey. It's these little moments of childlike joy that I cherish most.

As we descended, our thoughts turned to lunch. We made our way to Sansaro Cafe, a charming spot known for its delicious and wholesome meals. The cafe is nestled in a serene location, offering a perfect respite for weary travelers. I opted for a traditional Japanese set meal, savoring the flavors of locally sourced ingredients. Mei-Ling enjoyed a vegan option, which she said was exceptionally well-prepared. Lin, predictably, devoured a bowl of rice with gusto. The owner of Sansaro Cafe is known for using natural, high-quality ingredients. I was tempted by the offer of a yoga lesson, which the owner sometimes provides, but decided to save that for another time.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

After lunch, we decided to explore a local shop called Kodo-no-Mori Anchan. This wasn't just any shop; it was a treasure trove of local crafts and souvenirs. The owner was a friendly woman who shared stories about the region and its artisans. I picked up a beautiful hand-painted fan for my mother and a small wooden toy for Lin. It's important to support these local businesses, to help preserve the traditions and culture of the Kumano Kodo. The shop is located next to Takijiri-oji, the spiritual entrance to the sacred Kumano mountains and a popular trailhead. The guesthouse has a home-sharing atmosphere, and the shop sells souvenirs including local sake and beer.


Discover tranquility and charm at Kodo-no-Mori Anchan, a guesthouse in Wakayama offering cozy lodging and unique local souvenirs.

As evening approached, we made our way to Kakinoate for dinner. This restaurant is renowned for its persimmon leaf sushi, a local delicacy that I was eager to try. The sushi was exquisite, the subtle flavor of the persimmon leaf complementing the fresh fish perfectly. Mei-Ling, who isn't usually a fan of sushi, was pleasantly surprised by the unique taste. Lin, however, stuck to her usual favorite: rice. Kakinoate is located in front of the torii gate to Kumano Hayatama Taisha Grand Shrine. They offer salmon and mackerel sushi, handmade every morning, along with soba noodles.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Kakinoate in Shingu, where every dish tells a story of tradition and flavor.

Reflecting on the day, I feel a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the Kumano Kodo with my family. These ancient paths have a way of stripping away the distractions of modern life and connecting you to something deeper, something more meaningful. It's a reminder of the importance of slowing down, of appreciating the simple things, and of cherishing the moments we have with loved ones.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Fudarakusan-ji and Totsui Limestone Cave. I'm particularly excited about exploring the cave, as I've always been fascinated by geology and the hidden wonders of the earth. We'll also be dining at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall for lunch and Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table for dinner. I'm looking forward to another day of adventure and discovery on the Kumano Kodo.

As I sit here writing, the sounds of the Japanese countryside lull me into a peaceful state. The gentle breeze rustles through the trees, carrying with it the whispers of the past. It's a reminder that we are all connected, that we are all part of something larger than ourselves. And as I drift off to sleep, I can't help but feel grateful for this incredible journey, this family pilgrimage to the heart of Japan.

I am also grateful that I didn't forget my camera today, so I could capture the memories. I did, however, realize that I forgot to pack a portable phone charger, and my phone is almost out of battery. I will need to remember to buy one tomorrow. I am also missing my sunhat, so I will need to buy one of those as well.

Thinking about this trip, I am reminded of the importance of the Kumano Kodo as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It's not just a collection of trails; it's a living testament to the power of faith, culture, and nature. It's a place where you can connect with the past, appreciate the present, and find inspiration for the future. And as we continue our journey, I hope to share more of these experiences with you, to inspire you to explore the world and discover the wonders that await.

While reflecting on the day, I am reminded of the mountain passes in Taiwan. While growing up in Douliu, I would often hike through the mountains with my family. The Kumano Kodo reminds me of those days, and I am grateful to be able to share this experience with my own family. It is interesting to see how similar, yet different, the cultures are. Both are beautiful in their own way.

As I prepare for tomorrow's adventures, I am filled with a sense of anticipation. The Kumano Kodo has already exceeded my expectations, and I can't wait to see what else it has in store for us. Until then, I bid you goodnight from the heart of Japan, where the ancient echoes still resonate and the spirit of the pilgrimage lives on.