Family Pilgrimage: Exploring Kumano Kodo

A Day of Gods and Waterfalls

Today was nothing short of magical as we delved deeper into the heart of Kumano Kodo. It's incredible how each day on this pilgrimage brings new perspectives and a stronger connection to both nature and spirit. I felt a profound sense of peace and awe, a reminder of the simple yet powerful beauty that surrounds us.



Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Jokiin, the same serene setting where we dined last night. The traditional Japanese breakfast set us up perfectly for the day's adventures [the same kind of breakfast I used to enjoy back in Douliu]. We were eager to explore the famed Kumano-Nachi Taisha, Nachi Waterfall, and Seiganto-ji Temple.



Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

Kumano-Nachi Taisha was our first stop, a Shinto shrine nestled halfway up Nachi Mountain. The air was crisp, and the scent of cedar filled our lungs as we approached the entrance. I learned that this grand shrine has origins dating back 1,700 years, rooted in the ancient worship of Nachi-no-Otaki. Seeing the meticulous care taken to maintain the shrine, with its vibrant colors, was a testament to the enduring culture of reverence here. Lin was particularly fascinated by the Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow, which she learned is a divine messenger and a symbol frequently seen in the Kumano region.



Explore the spiritual heart of Wakayama at Kumano-Nachi Taisha, a stunning Shinto shrine surrounded by natural beauty and rich cultural history.

As we walked through the shrine grounds, I noticed a massive camphor tree with boughs that gracefully spread over the shrine's roofs. It’s nearly a thousand years old and considered sacred. There’s even a hollow in its trunk called Tainai Kuguri, which they say brings good luck if you pass through it. Mei-Ling, ever the adventurer, insisted we try it, and Lin giggled as we squeezed through the tunnel, hoping for a bit of extra fortune on our journey.


Adjacent to Kumano-Nachi Taisha stands the Buddhist temple, Seiganto-ji. For much of their history, these two sites were part of a single religious complex, a jingu-ji, showcasing the harmonious blend of Shintoism and Buddhism. It’s fascinating how these two spiritual traditions have coexisted here for centuries. The temples were only separated in the 19th century.



Discover the tranquility and beauty of Seiganto-ji, a historic Buddhist temple overlooking the stunning Nachi Falls in Wakayama, Japan.

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.

Seiganto-ji Temple, also known as the Temple of Crossing the Blue Shore, exudes a sense of tranquility. Legend says that Ragyō Shōnin, a monk from India, founded the temple after finding Nachi Waterfall. It was intentionally built near the falls, where it may have been a site for nature worship long before the temple existed. The temple’s history is rich, though many of its buildings were unfortunately burned down during civil wars in the 16th century.


The three-story pagoda at Seiganto-ji is an iconic sight. The original pagoda burned down in 1581, but it was rebuilt in 1972 and is now a major attraction. We paid the small entrance fee and climbed to the top, where each floor houses a statue of a different deity. Fudo Myo-o is on the first floor, Amida Buddha on the second, and the Thousand-Armed Kannon on the third. The views from the top were breathtaking, offering an uninterrupted panorama of Nachi Waterfall and the surrounding mountains.


From Seiganto-ji, we made our way toward the highlight of the day: Nachi Waterfall. As we approached, the sound of the cascading water grew louder, building anticipation. Emerging from the trees, the sight of Nachi Waterfall was simply awe-inspiring. At 133 meters, it's the tallest waterfall in Japan, and you can see it from far out on the Pacific Ocean.



Discover the stunning Nachi Waterfall in Wakayama, Japan—one of the tallest and most sacred waterfalls in the country, surrounded by lush nature and rich culture.

The waterfall has long been revered as a sacred site. Shinto priests from Nachi Taisha Shrine make offerings to the waterfall kami every morning. According to legend, the monk Ragyō Shōnin encountered Kannon, the God(dess) of Mercy, while training under the waterfall. The water source is the surrounding broad-leaf evergreen primeval forest, which has been protected since ancient times.


We descended the stone stairs to the base of Nachi Falls, marked by a beige torii gate. Here, at Hiro Jinja, we could truly appreciate the waterfall in all its glory. The spray from the falls misted our faces, and we took a moment to simply absorb the power and beauty of nature. I noticed the dragon-shaped sculptures around the grounds, a reminder that a dragon god is said to reside in the waterfall, protecting it.


Before lunch, we stopped by the Nachisan Sightseeing Center to pick up a few souvenirs. Lin chose a small Yatagarasu charm, while Mei-Ling found a beautiful hand-painted fan. I opted for a book on the history of Kumano Kodo, eager to learn more about the trails we were walking.



Discover unique souvenirs and delightful treats at the Nachisan Sightseeing Center, your go-to destination in Nachikatsuura, Wakayama.

For lunch, we visited Fushiogami Teahouse. This teahouse is in the village of Fushiogami, and it's known for being the first point where pilgrims can see Kumano Hongu Taisha. The teahouse is run by local ladies. I enjoyed a cup of green tea while gazing out at the stunning view of the valley below.



Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

As the day drew to a close, we headed to Hinoki Steak House for dinner. This steakhouse is famous for its Kumano beef hamburg steaks. I opted for the half-and-half lunch set, which included both tuna and Kumano beef hamburg steaks. The hamburg steak was perfectly cooked, and the Kumano beef was incredibly tender. Mei-Ling enjoyed the Kajiki Maguro Steak Lunch Set, while Lin devoured her hamburg steak with gusto.



Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

Tomorrow, we will continue our pilgrimage to Kumano Hongu Taisha, Oyunohara, and the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center. I'm looking forward to discovering more of the spiritual heart of Japan and sharing those experiences with you all.


As I reflect on today, I’m reminded of a quote from John Muir:

Keep close to Nature’s heart… and break clear away, once in awhile, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean.

That’s precisely what this journey is doing for me and my family. Goodnight from Kumano Kodo.