A Solo Pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo

Spiritual Paths and Epicurean Adventures

Today was a deep dive into the heart of Kumano Kodo, a day where the echoes of ancient pilgrims seemed to whisper with every step. It was a blend of physical challenge and spiritual reflection, punctuated by the simple joys of local cuisine. As a freelance software developer from Berlin, I often find myself craving these moments of disconnection, where the digital world fades into the background and the tangible reality of nature takes over. And what better place to do so than on one of Japan's most sacred pilgrimage routes?

The day began early, fueled by a quick breakfast at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. The quaint little shop was buzzing with fellow hikers and locals alike, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with rice, miso soup, and grilled fish. It was the perfect way to energize myself for the day's journey along the Kumano Kodo Kohechi Pilgrimage Route.


Discover the Kumano Kodo Kohechi Pilgrimage Route, where ancient spirituality meets stunning natural beauty in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.
The trail itself was a mix of challenging ascents and serene descents, winding through dense forests and alongside crystal-clear streams. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and damp earth, a fragrance that seemed to cleanse the mind with every breath. I passed several other hikers along the way, each lost in their own thoughts and reflections. There was a shared sense of purpose, a silent understanding of the spiritual significance of this path.

The beauty of Kumano Kodo lies not just in its stunning landscapes, but in its ability to connect you with something larger than yourself.

The Kumano Kodo Kohechi route is known for being more demanding than other routes, and it certainly lived up to its reputation. The steep climbs tested my endurance, but the stunning views from the mountain ridges made it all worthwhile. I often stopped to catch my breath and soak in the panoramic vistas, feeling a sense of accomplishment with each summit reached.

As the morning progressed, I transitioned onto the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route. This section of the trail was noticeably different, with more well-maintained paths and frequent signposts. It was also more populated, with a steady stream of hikers making their way along the route. Despite the increased traffic, the Nakahechi route retained its spiritual essence, offering moments of quiet contemplation amidst the natural beauty.


Explore the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route, a UNESCO World Heritage site, for a blend of breathtaking nature and rich cultural heritage in Wakayama, Japan.
Around midday, hunger began to set in. Fortunately, I had planned ahead and packed a bento box filled with rice balls, pickled vegetables, and a few slices of tamagoyaki (Japanese omelette). I found a secluded spot overlooking a valley and enjoyed my lunch, savoring each bite as I took in the breathtaking scenery. It was a simple meal, but it tasted like a feast in the tranquil surroundings.

With renewed energy, I continued my trek, pushing myself to cover as much ground as possible. The afternoon sun cast long shadows through the trees, creating a magical atmosphere along the trail. I made a brief stop at Kodo-no-Mori Anchan, a charming little shop near Takijiri-oji. The shop was filled with local crafts and souvenirs, and I couldn't resist picking up a small wooden carving of a Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow that is a symbol of Kumano. I chatted briefly with the owner, who shared some interesting stories about the history of the pilgrimage route.


Discover tranquility and charm at Kodo-no-Mori Anchan, a guesthouse in Wakayama offering cozy lodging and unique local souvenirs.
As evening approached, I made my way to Hinoki Steak House for a well-deserved dinner. After a long day of hiking, I was craving something hearty and satisfying. The steak house was a welcome sight, with its warm and inviting atmosphere. I ordered a Kumano beef steak, cooked to perfection and served with a side of grilled vegetables. It was a truly exceptional meal, a fitting reward for my efforts on the trail.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.
The Hinoki Steak House has a history stretching back over half a century and is known for its top-notch service. I was not disappointed. The chef was super friendly and professional, and made me feel very welcome. The restaurant is clearly popular, and I was lucky to get a table without a reservation. If I return, I will book ahead, especially if it is a Sunday.

After dinner, I decided to treat myself to a relaxing soak at a local onsen. Yunomine Onsen is famous for its therapeutic hot springs, and I couldn't resist the opportunity to unwind and soothe my tired muscles. The onsen was a blissful experience, with the warm mineral-rich waters melting away all the tension from the day's hike. As I soaked in the onsen, I reflected on the day's journey, feeling a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the beauty and spirituality of Kumano Kodo.

Later in the evening, I found myself at Akihei for a final meal of the day. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, and I was immediately drawn to the menu featuring local specialties. I opted for a traditional Japanese set meal, complete with miso soup, rice, and a variety of small dishes. The flavors were delicate and nuanced, a testament to the culinary artistry of the region.


Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.
Akihei is known for offering vegan meals with advanced notice. While I did not avail myself of this option, it is good to know for future reference. The guesthouse also has a private onsen for guests only, which sounds very appealing.

As I savored my meal, I couldn't help but feel a sense of contentment. The day had been a perfect blend of physical challenge, spiritual reflection, and culinary delight. I had walked in the footsteps of ancient pilgrims, connected with nature, and indulged in the flavors of the region. It was an experience that I would cherish for a long time to come.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Takijirioji-gu Togo Shrine and Totsui Limestone Cave. I am excited to see what new adventures await me on this incredible journey through Kumano Kodo. For now, though, it's time to rest and recharge, preparing myself for another day of exploration and discovery.

Before heading back to my accommodation, I made a quick stop at a local shop to pick up some snacks for the next day's hike. I opted for a selection of rice crackers, dried fruits, and a few bottles of water. It's always good to be prepared, especially when embarking on a long trek.

As I walked back to my guesthouse, I couldn't help but feel a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience this incredible journey. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a pilgrimage route; it's a pathway to self-discovery, a chance to connect with nature, and a reminder of the simple joys of life. I am so glad that I decided to embark on this solo adventure, and I look forward to sharing more of my experiences with you in the days to come.

In preparation for tomorrow's hike, I spent some time reviewing the maps and guidebooks, familiarizing myself with the route and identifying any potential challenges. It's always a good idea to be well-prepared, especially when hiking in unfamiliar terrain. I also made sure to pack my backpack with all the essentials, including water, snacks, sunscreen, and a first-aid kit. Safety is always a top priority, and I want to ensure that I am well-equipped for any situation that may arise.

Before turning in for the night, I took a few moments to jot down my thoughts and reflections in my travel journal. Writing helps me to process my experiences and capture the essence of each day's journey. It's also a great way to preserve memories and relive them in the future. As I wrote, I couldn't help but smile, feeling a sense of contentment and gratitude for the incredible experiences that I have had so far on this pilgrimage. The Kumano Kodo has exceeded all of my expectations, and I am excited to see what the next few days have in store. I am particularly excited about visiting the Takijirioji-gu Togo Shrine and Totsui Limestone Cave tomorrow.

As I drifted off to sleep, I couldn't help but feel a sense of anticipation for the adventures that await me tomorrow. The Kumano Kodo has a way of capturing your heart and soul, and I am eager to continue exploring its hidden treasures and ancient pathways. Goodnight from Kumano Kodo!

Today was a truly remarkable day on the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. The blend of hiking, exploring local shops, and savoring delicious meals made for an unforgettable experience. I am grateful for the opportunity to immerse myself in the beauty and spirituality of this ancient trail.