A Solo Pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo

Day 1: A Journey to the Heart of Kumano Kodo

The first day of my solo pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo was nothing short of awe-inspiring. Leaving behind the familiar streets of Berlin and the demanding world of software development, I embarked on a journey to reconnect with myself amidst the serene landscapes and spiritual heritage of Japan. Today was all about immersing myself in the sacred atmosphere of Kumano Nachi Taisha and witnessing the majestic Nachi Waterfall. As someone who often finds solace in exploring historical sites, I was eager to delve into the rich history and natural beauty that this ancient pilgrimage route had to offer.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. Fuelled up, I headed towards the Kumano Kodo Information Center. It was a wise decision to stop there first, as the center provided invaluable insights into the area. I picked up some maps and pamphlets, and the staff were incredibly helpful in answering my questions about the trails and local customs. They highlighted the importance of respecting the sacred nature of the path, something I took to heart as I prepared for my trek.


Explore Kumano Kodo Information Center, your essential stop for discovering Japan's sacred pilgrimage trails and rich cultural heritage.

Armed with information, I set off towards Kumano Nachi Taisha. The journey to the shrine was an experience in itself. As I ascended, the air grew cooler, and the sounds of the city faded, replaced by the rustling of leaves and the chirping of birds. The path was well-maintained, a testament to the care and reverence this area receives. I couldn't help but reflect on how different this was from my usual urban explorations in Berlin, where the sounds of traffic and construction are constant companions.


Explore the spiritual heart of Wakayama at Kumano-Nachi Taisha, a stunning Shinto shrine surrounded by natural beauty and rich cultural history.

Reaching Kumano Nachi Taisha was like stepping into another world. The vibrant vermilion structures stood in stark contrast to the lush green backdrop of the mountains. The shrine exuded a sense of history and spirituality that was palpable. I learned that Kumano Nachi Taisha has ancient roots, dating back over 1,700 years, with its origins tied to the worship of Nachi Waterfall as a deity. It was fascinating to discover that the shrine has long been a significant site for mountain worship, predating the arrival of Buddhism in Japan. This blend of Shinto and Buddhist traditions is a unique aspect of the Kumano region, and I found myself deeply intrigued by the harmonious coexistence of these faiths.

Wandering through the shrine complex, I noticed the prevalence of the Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow, which serves as a symbol of guidance and rebirth. Legend has it that this crow guided Emperor Jinmu, the first emperor of Japan, leading him to establish his capital. Seeing the Yatagarasu imagery throughout the shrine, I felt a sense of connection to the ancient stories and the enduring spirit of this place.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step, and on the Kumano Kodo, every step feels like a step closer to understanding oneself and the world.

After exploring the shrine, I made my way to Seiganto-ji Temple, located right next to Kumano Nachi Taisha. It was remarkable to see a Buddhist temple and a Shinto shrine standing side by side, a testament to the syncretic nature of Japanese religious practices. Seiganto-ji, with its three-story pagoda, offered a stunning view of Nachi Waterfall in the distance. I learned that this temple is the oldest structure in the complex and is the first temple of the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage, the oldest Buddhist pilgrimage route in Japan.

For lunch, I stopped at Yorozuya Eatery, a local spot where I enjoyed a simple yet delicious meal. It was a great opportunity to savor the local flavors and recharge before continuing my exploration. The eatery was bustling with locals and fellow travelers, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.

The highlight of the day was undoubtedly Nachi Waterfall. As I approached, the sound of the cascading water grew louder, building anticipation. Finally, the waterfall came into view, and I was completely mesmerized. Dropping 133 meters, Nachi Waterfall is the tallest single-tiered waterfall in Japan, and it is considered a sacred site. The sheer power and beauty of the falls were breathtaking.


Discover the stunning Nachi Waterfall in Wakayama, Japan—one of the tallest and most sacred waterfalls in the country, surrounded by lush nature and rich culture.

I spent a long time simply gazing at the waterfall, feeling the cool mist on my face and listening to the thunderous roar of the water. It was easy to understand why this place has been revered for centuries. Legend has it that the waterfall is home to a dragon god, and I could certainly sense a powerful spiritual presence in the air. I also learned about the ancient practice of Shugyo, where mountain ascetics would meditate under the waterfall to attain enlightenment. While I wasn't planning on any extreme spiritual practices, I did take a moment to reflect on my own journey and the intentions I had set for this pilgrimage.

Before leaving, I visited Hiro-jinja Shrine, located at the base of Nachi Waterfall. Here, I had the opportunity to drink water from the falls' plunge basin, said to bring longevity. Whether or not it truly extends one's life, the water was refreshing and seemed to invigorate me. It felt like a symbolic gesture, connecting me to the ancient traditions and the life-giving force of nature.

As the day drew to a close, I enjoyed dinner at Tororoya, savoring the local cuisine and reflecting on the day's experiences. The flavors of the region were a delightful complement to the spiritual nourishment I had received throughout the day.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

Walking back to my accommodation, I felt a sense of peace and contentment. The first day of my pilgrimage had been a profound experience, connecting me to the history, spirituality, and natural beauty of the Kumano Kodo. I was grateful for the opportunity to disconnect from the distractions of modern life and immerse myself in this sacred journey.

Thinking about tomorrow, I am excited to continue my journey towards Kumano Hongu Taisha and Oyunohara. I plan to start my day with breakfast at Fushiogami Teahouse, followed by what I hope will be another day filled with exploration and reflection. I'm also intrigued by the prospect of visiting Why Kumano bar in the evening – perhaps a chance to connect with other travelers and share stories.

The weather in July can be quite warm and humid, with temperatures ranging from 25°C to 30°C, so I'm glad I packed lightweight, breathable clothing. I also made sure to bring my rain jacket, as July tends to be a wet month in the Kumano region. While I did forget my umbrella and sunscreen, I'll make sure to pick them up tomorrow to be better prepared for the elements.

As I settle in for the night, I feel a deep sense of gratitude for this experience. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a journey of self-discovery, a chance to connect with the past, and an opportunity to find peace in the present. I am excited to see what tomorrow brings as I continue my solo pilgrimage.

And on a final note, I'm grateful for the reminder that sometimes, the most meaningful code you can write is the one that unlocks your own heart.