A Solo Pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo

A Day of Serenity and Reflection

As my journey on the Kumano Kodo nears its end, I find myself drawn to moments of quiet reflection and spiritual cleansing. Today was one of those days, perfectly blending the tranquility of Yunomine Onsen with the historical weight of the Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route. It's amazing how these ancient paths and sacred waters can still resonate so deeply within me, a modern-day traveler seeking a connection to something greater. Leaving Berlin behind for this solo adventure was exactly what I needed.

My day began, as many do on this pilgrimage, with a hearty breakfast at Onigajō cliff Center. Though the name suggests a dramatic cliffside experience, the actual center provided a comforting and familiar start. I fueled up with a simple yet satisfying meal, knowing I'd need the energy for the day ahead. It’s funny; even though I’m miles away from my usual freelance software development work, my brain still feels most at peace when I have a plan and a full stomach. After breakfast, I made a quick stop at Triple Kumano Kodo JAPAN, a general store, to pick up a few essentials, mostly snacks and water, before heading towards Yunomine Onsen.


Experience the therapeutic waters of Yunomine Onsen in Wakayama, where nature and tradition meet for a rejuvenating retreat.

Yunomine Onsen is often called one of Japan's oldest onsen towns, and arriving there felt like stepping back in time. The small village is nestled in a valley, and the atmosphere is thick with the scent of sulfur and the sound of flowing water. My main goal was to experience Yuzutsu, the public hot spring where you can cook eggs in the naturally heated water. It's a tradition that dates back centuries, and I was eager to partake. I bought some fresh eggs from a nearby shop and carefully placed them in a net before submerging them in the near-boiling water. While waiting for them to cook, I wandered around the area, taking in the sights and sounds of this unique place. The Yuzutsu is more than just a cooking spot; it's a community gathering place where locals and travelers alike come together to share stories and experiences.

The essence of travel lies not just in seeing new places, but in allowing those places to change you.

After about 12 minutes, my eggs were ready. I cracked one open and savored the creamy yolk and slightly firm white, infused with the minerals of the hot spring water. It was a simple yet profound experience, connecting me to the long history of this sacred place. Legend says that Yunomine Onsen was discovered 1,800 years ago, and since then, pilgrims have come here to purify themselves in the healing waters before visiting the Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine. The spiritual significance of this place is palpable, and I felt a sense of peace and renewal as I soaked in the atmosphere.

For lunch, I ventured to Takehara, a local restaurant known for its tuna dishes. The meal was delicious and satisfying, providing the perfect fuel for the afternoon’s hike. It was a quaint and earnest town, and the restaurant perfectly captured the tranquility of the countryside. I sat at the bar and enjoyed some of the freshest tuna sashimi I've ever had (thanks to the port across the street), as well as a great tuna and rice bowl and teriyaki chicken. Interacting with the locals, even with my limited Japanese, added another layer to the experience, a reminder of the connections that can be forged through shared meals and simple conversations.


Experience authentic Japanese seafood in Takehara – where fresh ingredients meet exquisite culinary craftsmanship.

With a refreshed body and spirit, I set off for the Kumano Kodo - Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route. This ancient cobblestone path is lined with towering cedar trees, creating a tunnel of green that feels both awe-inspiring and humbling. The Daimon-zaka is an impressive cobblestone staircase slope which runs from the base of the valley to Kumano Nachi Taisha, Seiganto-ji Temple and Nachi waterfall. It is lined with centuries-old Japanese cedars (cryptomeria), cypress, camphor trees and bamboo groves. The path is about 600 meters long with 267 stairs. As I walked, I imagined the countless pilgrims who had walked this same path over centuries, seeking enlightenment and spiritual solace. The air was thick with the scent of cedar, and the only sounds were the rustling of leaves and the occasional chirping of birds. Despite the summer heat, the canopy provided a cool and welcome shade.


Discover the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route: a UNESCO World Heritage site blending history, spirituality, and breathtaking landscapes.

The Daimon-saka route is not particularly long, but the steep stone steps made it a challenging climb. I took my time, pausing to admire the ancient trees and the glimpses of the surrounding mountains. The path is lined with centuries-old Japanese cedars and cypress trees, creating a serene and almost mystical atmosphere. About halfway up, I came across a small teahouse where I stopped for a refreshing cup of green tea. It was a welcome break, and I enjoyed chatting with the owner, an elderly woman who has lived in the area her entire life. She shared stories of the pilgrims who have passed through over the years, each with their own hopes and dreams.

Reaching the top of the Daimon-saka, I was rewarded with a breathtaking view of the Nachi Falls, the tallest waterfall in Japan. The cascading water plunged down the mountainside, creating a misty spray that felt cool and refreshing on my skin. I spent some time simply gazing at the falls, feeling a sense of awe and gratitude for the beauty of nature. It was the perfect culmination of a day spent seeking spiritual renewal and connecting with the ancient traditions of the Kumano Kodo.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way to Yorozuya Eatery for dinner. This charming restaurant is known for its traditional Japanese dishes, and I was eager to try some local specialties. The restaurant itself exuded a cozy, welcoming atmosphere, and the staff were incredibly friendly and accommodating. I opted for a set menu that included a variety of small dishes, each bursting with flavor and showcasing the fresh, local ingredients. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration and reflection, savoring the culinary delights of the region while surrounded by the tranquility of the Kumano Kodo.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center and hike the Yata Pass. The Kumano Hongu Heritage Center is a place to learn more about the history and culture of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. The Yata Pass is a mountain pass that offers stunning views of the surrounding area. I'm excited to continue my journey and see what other wonders the Kumano Kodo has in store.

Walking solo has given me ample opportunity to reflect on my life back in Berlin. The flexibility of my freelance work allows me to take these trips, but it also means I sometimes struggle with disconnecting. Here, surrounded by nature and ancient traditions, I find it easier to let go of the stresses of modern life and focus on the present moment. Perhaps I’ll even pick up a journal at the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center tomorrow.

The Kumano Kodo continues to surprise and inspire me. Each day brings new experiences and insights, and I am grateful for the opportunity to walk in the footsteps of pilgrims who have come before me. This journey is more than just a hike; it is a pilgrimage of the soul, a chance to reconnect with myself and the world around me. The scar above my left eyebrow, a small reminder of a past misadventure, seems less significant here, overshadowed by the vastness of the mountains and the weight of history.

I feel incredibly fortunate to have had this opportunity to explore the Kumano Kodo and experience its unique blend of natural beauty and spiritual significance. It’s a journey I’ll carry with me long after I return to Berlin. I'm beginning to understand that the true treasures of travel are not just the sights we see, but the transformations we undergo along the way. Perhaps this solo pilgrimage will inspire a new software project when I return – one focused on mindfulness and connection, rather than just lines of code.