A Solo Pilgrimage on the Kumano Kodo

Nachi Beckons

Today was about soaking in the spiritual heart of Kumano Kodo and beginning to reflect on the journey I've undertaken. As my pilgrimage nears its end, I find myself drawn to both the sacred spaces and the quiet corners where introspection comes naturally. From the informative halls of the Kumano Kodo Information Center to the awe-inspiring Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine, each step today felt like a preparation for my return to Berlin.


Explore the Kumano Kodo Information Center for a deep dive into the history and culture of Japan's ancient pilgrimage routes.

The day began with a hearty Japanese breakfast at the Fushiogami Teahouse. It was a traditional affair, complete with green tea, rice, and some pickled vegetables that gave my taste buds a pleasant jolt. What struck me most about the teahouse was its serene atmosphere. Situated along the Kumano Kodo, it offered a perfect spot to gather my thoughts before embarking on the day’s explorations. The staff were incredibly welcoming, offering advice on the best routes and points of interest. Sipping my tea, I watched as other pilgrims, each with their own stories etched on their faces, prepared for their day on the trail. It was a reminder that while I was traveling solo, I was part of a much larger, shared experience.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

My first official stop was the Kumano Kodo Information Center. Now, I usually avoid information centers like the plague, but I have to admit, this one was different. It wasn't just a place to grab brochures; it was an immersive introduction to the Kumano Kodo. The exhibits detailed the history of the pilgrimage, the significance of the various shrines, and the natural wonders of the region. I picked up a detailed map, which, let's be honest, I probably should have done on day one. Still, better late than never, right? The center also offered insights into the local flora and fauna, which, as a nature enthusiast, I found particularly fascinating. I learned about the ancient cedar trees that line the trail and the diverse bird species that call the Kii Peninsula home. It deepened my appreciation for the natural beauty surrounding me.

From the Information Center, I set off towards the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Hall of Worship. The path leading to the shrine was lined with stone steps, each one a testament to the countless pilgrims who had walked this way before me. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and the sound of cicadas, creating an almost meditative atmosphere. As I climbed, I couldn't help but reflect on my own journey. What had started as a desire to explore a new part of the world had evolved into something much deeper. The Kumano Kodo had challenged me physically, mentally, and spiritually. It had forced me to confront my own limitations, to appreciate the simple things in life, and to connect with something larger than myself.


Explore the cultural and natural beauty of Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine, a serene Shinto sanctuary in Wakayama, Japan.

Reaching the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine was an experience in itself. The vibrant vermillion lacquered buildings stood in stark contrast to the surrounding green forest, creating a visually stunning scene. The shrine exuded a sense of history and reverence. I took my time exploring the various halls and temples, each dedicated to different deities. I watched as locals and tourists alike offered prayers, lit incense, and sought blessings. I even tried my hand at omikuji, drawing a fortune that, surprisingly, was quite accurate. The shrine offered panoramic views of the surrounding mountains, a breathtaking reminder of the natural beauty of the Kumano Kodo. I paused for a while, just taking it all in and feeling grateful for the opportunity to be there.

Lunch was at Tororoya, a local restaurant known for its *tororo* dishes. For those not in the know, *tororo* is grated yam, and it's a staple in this region. I opted for the *tororo* set meal, which came with rice, miso soup, and various side dishes. The *tororo* was surprisingly delicious, with a slightly sweet and earthy flavor. It was the perfect fuel for the afternoon's adventures. The restaurant itself was cozy and welcoming, with friendly staff and a relaxed atmosphere. It felt like a genuine taste of local culture, a welcome change from the tourist traps I sometimes find myself in.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

As the day wound down, I found myself at the Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan for dinner. This restaurant is housed in a beautifully renovated traditional building, adding to its charm. I decided to try their local specialty, *meharizushi*, which is pickled mustard leaf-wrapped sushi. It was an interesting combination of flavors, a bit tangy and a bit spicy, but definitely worth trying. The *Omotenashi-Kan* also serves as a visitor center, offering information about the Kumano Kodo and the surrounding area. It was a great place to reflect on the day's experiences and plan for the final days of my pilgrimage.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

Before heading back to my accommodation, I decided to check out a local bar called HANGOVER. It was a quirky spot, with an Americana theme that felt a bit out of place in rural Japan. But the owner, Mr. Tanahashi, was incredibly friendly, and the atmosphere was lively. I ordered a local beer and chatted with some of the other patrons, who were a mix of locals and tourists. It was a fun way to unwind after a long day of hiking and sightseeing.


Experience the taste of classic American diner cuisine at Hangover in Tanabe, where every meal is a comforting delight.

As I sit here, writing this in my cozy room at Jokiin, I can't help but feel a sense of accomplishment. The Kumano Kodo has been everything I hoped it would be and more. It has challenged me, inspired me, and changed me in ways I'm only beginning to understand. Tomorrow, I plan to visit Yunomine Onsen Yuzutsu and hike the Kumano Kodo - Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route, continuing to embrace the spiritual essence of this journey.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

This trip has also made me think about my life back in Berlin. As a freelance software developer, I often get caught up in the digital world, spending hours in front of a screen. The Kumano Kodo has reminded me of the importance of connecting with nature, of slowing down, and of appreciating the simple things in life. I've made a mental note to incorporate more of these elements into my daily routine when I return. Perhaps I'll start by taking more walks in the Tiergarten or exploring some of the historical sites around Berlin. I'm also determined to continue learning German, immersing myself further in the local culture. Who knows, maybe I'll even start a new travel blog, sharing my experiences and inspiring others to embark on their own adventures.

One thing I know for sure is that this pilgrimage has been a turning point in my life. It has given me a new perspective, a renewed sense of purpose, and a deeper appreciation for the world around me. And as I prepare to return to Berlin, I carry with me the lessons I've learned on the Kumano Kodo, ready to embrace whatever challenges and opportunities lie ahead. The journey may be nearing its end, but the memories and the lessons will last a lifetime. As I reflect on my time here, I realize that this journey wasn't just about seeing new places; it was about seeing myself in a new light. It was about finding peace in solitude and discovering strength in vulnerability. And for that, I am eternally grateful. The Kumano Kodo has left an indelible mark on my soul, a reminder that the most meaningful journeys are often the ones we take within ourselves.