Exploring the Cultural Wonders of Shikoku Island

Stepping Back in Time in Matsuyama

Today was a day of immersing ourselves in the rich history and relaxing traditions of Matsuyama. It’s amazing how much a single day can offer when you open yourself up to new experiences. From the heights of Matsuyama Castle to the soothing waters of Dogo Onsen, every moment felt like a step back in time.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Dining Room Hibari. While the name suggested a traditional Japanese experience, the menu was surprisingly diverse, offering a mix of local and Western options. I opted for a classic Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, and pickled vegetables. Aisha, ever the adventurous one, tried their Western-style omelet. Fuelled up, we were ready to tackle the day’s adventures.

Our first stop was the majestic Matsuyama Castle. Perched atop Mount Katsuyama, the castle offered panoramic views of the city and the Seto Inland Sea. The hike up was a bit strenuous, especially in the August heat, but the views were well worth the effort. Luckily, there was also a ropeway and chairlift available, but we decided to take the scenic route on foot. As we climbed, we passed through multiple well-defended gates, each with its own unique history and architectural significance.


Experience the grandeur of Matsuyama Castle, a historic fortress showcasing Japan's rich heritage and stunning views of the Seto Inland Sea.

Reaching the main circle of defense (Honmaru), we were greeted by the impressive three-story castle tower. Originally built in the early 17th century by Katō Yoshiaki, the castle has been rebuilt several times due to fires and other calamities. The current structure dates back to 1820, after the original five-story tower was destroyed by lightning. Inside, we explored exhibits showcasing the castle's history, including displays of armor, weapons, and ancient blueprints. The intricate details of the castle's defenses were fascinating, with hidden gates and elaborate containment zones designed to thwart any potential invaders.

Matsuyama Castle is not just a historical landmark; it’s a testament to the resilience and ingenuity of the people who built and rebuilt it over centuries.

One of the most interesting aspects of Matsuyama Castle is its connection to the Matsudaira family, relatives of the ruling Tokugawa clan. The castle is the only one among the twelve original castles to feature the “Aoi Crest” (three mallow leaves), the family crest of the Tokugawa, on its roof tiles. This emblem served as a reminder of the family's power and influence during the Edo period.

After exploring the castle, we descended to the Ninomaru Garden, located at the southern base of Mount Katsuyama. This garden was once the site of the castle palace, where the lord's residence and offices were located. Although the palace buildings no longer exist, the garden has been beautifully preserved, with elevated foundations, green spaces, and ponds that evoke the atmosphere of the former castle palace. It was a tranquil spot to relax and reflect on the history we had just witnessed.

For lunch, we headed to Inonakanokawazu, a local restaurant recommended for its authentic Japanese cuisine. The name, which translates to “a frog in a well,” intrigued me. It’s a Japanese proverb that refers to someone who is ignorant of the world outside their own limited experience. The restaurant itself was far from ignorant, offering a wide range of traditional dishes made with fresh, local ingredients. I ordered a set meal featuring tempura, sashimi, and rice, while Aisha opted for a hearty bowl of udon noodles. The flavors were delicate and nuanced, a testament to the chef's skill and attention to detail.


Discover authentic Japanese flavors at Inonakanokawazu in Kami, Kochi – a true taste of tradition awaits you.

In the afternoon, it was time for some much-needed relaxation at Dogo Onsen Main Building. This ancient hot spring is one of the oldest and most famous in Japan, with a history dating back over 3,000 years. The current main building was constructed in 1894 and is a stunning example of traditional Japanese architecture. It’s even said to have inspired the bathhouse in Hayao Miyazaki's animated film *Spirited Away*.


Discover the serene beauty and historic charm of Dogo Onsen Main Building, a must-visit onsen in Matsuyama, Japan, rich in culture and relaxation.

As we approached the onsen, we could hear the rhythmic sound of the taiko drum, which is played three times a day to mark the opening of the baths. The building's exterior was adorned with intricate carvings and details, and a white egret statue perched atop the roof, a symbol of the onsen's legendary healing powers. According to legend, a white egret once cured its injured leg by soaking it in the hot spring waters, leading people to believe in the water's restorative properties.

Inside, the atmosphere was serene and inviting. We changed into our yukatas (light cotton kimonos) and proceeded to the baths. The hot spring water was wonderfully soothing, and I could feel my muscles relaxing as I soaked in the mineral-rich waters. The onsen has different bathing areas, each with its own unique ambiance and therapeutic benefits. I tried both the Kami no Yu (Bath of the Gods) and the Tama no Yu (Bath of the Spirits), each offering a slightly different experience.

After our rejuvenating soak, we explored the labyrinthine corridors and staircases of the main building. The architecture was fascinating, with hidden rooms and unexpected features at every turn. We even caught a glimpse of the Yushinden, a private bath reserved for the Imperial family.

In the evening, we decided to try some Korean cuisine at Korean Restaurant and Kimchi Shop Kyongbokkung. Although we were in Japan, we were both craving the bold flavors of Korean food. The restaurant offered a wide range of classic Korean dishes, including kimchi jjigae (kimchi stew), bibimbap (mixed rice with vegetables and meat), and Korean BBQ. We opted for a selection of dishes to share, including a spicy kimchi stew, savory japchae (glass noodles with vegetables), and a sizzling plate of bulgogi (marinated beef). The flavors were intense and satisfying, a perfect complement to the day's experiences.


Experience authentic Korean cuisine at Kyonboku in Nankoku, where homemade kimchi and traditional dishes create unforgettable flavors.

To cap off the evening, we ventured to Irish Pub Amontillado for a nightcap. It might seem strange to go to an Irish pub in Japan, but we were curious to see how the Irish culture translated in this part of the world. The pub had a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, with a good selection of local craft beers and imported spirits. I ordered a pint of Guinness, while Aisha tried a local craft beer made with yuzu, a citrus fruit native to Japan. As we sipped our drinks, we chatted with some of the locals and learned about their experiences living in Matsuyama.


Discover the charm of Irish Pub Amontillado in Kochi, where traditional izakaya meets the warmth of Irish hospitality, offering a unique dining experience.

As I reflect on today’s adventures, I am struck by the seamless blend of history, culture, and relaxation that Matsuyama offers. From the imposing Matsuyama Castle to the therapeutic waters of Dogo Onsen, every moment was a testament to the city’s rich heritage and vibrant spirit. And with tomorrow’s itinerary including a visit to the stunning Ritsurin Garden and the fascinating Shikoku Village, I know that the adventure is far from over.

Tomorrow, we are planning to explore the serene Ritsurin Garden and the culturally rich Shikoku Village. I’m particularly excited about Ritsurin Garden, as I’ve heard it’s one of the most beautiful historical gardens in Japan. And of course, I’m looking forward to trying more of the local cuisine. Who knows what culinary delights await us tomorrow!

The summer in Shikoku is certainly proving to be an unforgettable journey. The days are warm, but the evenings are pleasant, making it perfect for exploring the outdoors. I’m also grateful that I packed my lightweight clothing, as it’s been essential for staying comfortable in the humid weather. I’m definitely making a mental note to bring a raincoat and sunscreen next time, as I’ve already had a couple of close calls with unexpected showers and sunburns.

I'm also really enjoying travelling with friends. It's great to have people to share these experiences with, and their perspectives often add a new dimension to my own understanding of the places we visit. Plus, it's always fun to have someone to laugh with along the way.

Good night from Matsuyama!