Exploring the Spiritual Heart of Morocco: An 11-Day Journey in Moulay Idriss

Echoes of Empires and Artisans' Hands

Today, Aoife and I embarked on a journey that bridged the ancient world with the vibrant present. From the awe-inspiring ruins of Volubilis to the heartwarming craftsmanship at The Anou Cooperative, it was a day of discovery and connection. The Moroccan sun beat down as we traversed through history and artistry, each step revealing a new layer of this captivating land.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Cafe restaurant ain zwawk مقهى و مطعم عين زواوق. Fuelled up, we set off to explore the legendary Site Archéologique de Volubilis. As an antiques dealer, I'm naturally drawn to places where the past whispers, and Volubilis certainly didn't disappoint. The site is massive, and the remnants of Roman life are remarkably well-preserved. It's easy to imagine the city as it once was, a bustling hub of commerce and culture at the edge of the Roman Empire.


Discover the captivating ruins of Volubilis, where ancient Roman history meets stunning Moroccan landscapes in a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The drive to Volubilis was scenic, with rolling hills and olive groves stretching as far as the eye could see. It reminded me of the Irish countryside, albeit with a distinctly North African flair. When we arrived, the sun was already high, casting long shadows across the ruins. I could feel the weight of history beneath my feet as we entered the ancient city.

Aoife, ever the librarian, was in her element, poring over the information in our guidebook and pointing out architectural details I might have missed. She has a knack for bringing history to life, weaving tales of emperors, merchants, and everyday citizens who once walked these very streets. Together, we pieced together a picture of Volubilis in its prime, a vibrant city of 20,000 souls.

We wandered through the ruins of grand houses, marveling at the intricate mosaics that still adorned the floors. The House of Orpheus was a particular highlight, with its stunning depiction of the mythical musician charming the animals with his lyre. It's incredible to think that these works of art have survived for centuries, testaments to the skill and artistry of Roman craftsmen.

To walk through Volubilis is to walk through the pages of history, each stone whispering tales of emperors, Berber princes, and the ebb and flow of civilizations.

The Triumphal Arch of Caracalla stood tall against the skyline, a monument to Roman power and ambition. I climbed to the top of a nearby hillock for a panoramic view of the site, the vast expanse of ruins stretching out before me like a history book come to life. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of the rise and fall of empires and the enduring power of time.

After a morning of exploring Volubilis, we were ready for lunch. We headed to the restaurant within the site, aptly named Volubilis, for a bite to eat. While the food was simple, the atmosphere was unbeatable, surrounded by the echoes of the past.

In the afternoon, we ventured to The Anou Cooperative, a world away from the ancient ruins, yet deeply connected to the cultural heart of Morocco. Located closer to Fes, this cooperative is a testament to the enduring spirit of Moroccan craftsmanship. It's a place where local artisans, many of them women, come together to create and sell their wares, preserving traditional skills and empowering their communities.


Explore The Anou Cooperative in Fès for a unique shopping experience that supports local artisans and celebrates Moroccan craftsmanship.

The Anou Cooperative is more than just a shop; it's a social enterprise that puts artisans first. They provide training, resources, and a platform for these talented individuals to showcase their work and connect with customers from around the world. It's a refreshing alternative to the often exploitative world of fair trade, where middlemen often take the lion's share of the profits.

As we stepped inside, we were greeted by a riot of colors and textures. Handwoven rugs, intricate textiles, and beautifully crafted ceramics filled the space, each piece telling a story of skill, tradition, and creativity. I was particularly drawn to the rugs, their vibrant patterns and intricate designs reflecting the rich cultural heritage of Morocco.

I spent hours talking to the artisans, learning about their techniques, their inspirations, and their hopes for the future. Their passion for their craft was infectious, and I found myself wanting to take home a piece of everything in the shop. Aoife, of course, was drawn to the stories behind the pieces, carefully documenting the history and significance of each design.

We ended up purchasing a beautiful Berber rug, its intricate patterns a reflection of the weaver's skill and the traditions of her ancestors. It's more than just a rug; it's a piece of art, a connection to a culture, and a symbol of empowerment for the artisan who created it. It will certainly look great in our living room in Dublin, a reminder of our journey to Morocco and the incredible people we met along the way.

Before heading back to our guesthouse in Moulay Idriss, we stopped for dinner at Café Restaurant Ksar Pharaon. It was a perfect end to a day of contrasts, savoring traditional Moroccan cuisine while reflecting on the ancient ruins and the vibrant artistry we had encountered.


Experience authentic Moroccan cuisine in the charming ambiance of Café Restaurant Ksar Pharaon in Moulay Idriss Zerhoun.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the spiritual heart of Moulay Idriss, visiting the Tombeau de Moulay Idriss 1er and soaking in the panoramic views from the Small Terasse overlooking the mosque. We might even venture into DAR INES MOULAY IDRISS ZERHOUN for a taste of local nightlife. But for now, I'm content to relax and reflect on the day's adventures, the echoes of empires and artisans' hands resonating in my mind. It's moments like these that make travel so rewarding, connecting us to the past, the present, and the enduring spirit of humanity.

The adapter I forgot to pack has proven to be a minor inconvenience, but luckily, our guesthouse had a spare. Aoife, naturally, was prepared for this, and had a mobile hotspot ready to go for when wifi became non-existent. I am glad we are experiencing all of this together.

Good night from Morocco!