Family Pilgrimage: Exploring Japan's Kumano Kodo

A Day of Subterranean Wonders and Sacred Groves

Today marked the sixth day of our Kumano Kodo pilgrimage, and it was a journey into the heart of the earth and the soul of the forest. The day promised a blend of natural wonders and spiritual reflection, a combination that always seems to rejuvenate the spirit. Aoife, Liam and I were eager to explore the depths of Totsui Limestone Cave and wander through the ancient cedars of Tsugizakura-Oji.


Discover the enchanting Totsui Limestone Cave in Wakayama, a natural wonder filled with stunning rock formations and rich geological history.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. This charming spot, converted from a 130-year-old house, offered a taste of local specialties and set the perfect tone for the day ahead. It’s amazing how a simple meal in such a setting can transport you back in time, making you feel connected to the generations who have walked this path before us. I picked up a few local snacks for the trail ahead, remembering how much easier these hikes are with a little something to nibble on.

Fueled and ready, we set off towards Totsui Limestone Cave. The drive itself was scenic, winding through lush greenery that characterizes this region of Japan. As we approached the cave, I couldn't help but feel a sense of anticipation. I’ve always been fascinated by caves – these hidden worlds beneath our feet, sculpted by time and nature's patient hand.

The Totsui Limestone Cave turned out to be a relatively small cave, stretching only about 100 meters. But what it lacked in size, it more than made up for in character. Formed over 250 million years ago, the cave is a testament to the slow, relentless power of nature. As we ventured inside, the temperature dropped noticeably, a welcome respite from the humid air outside. The stalactites and stalagmites, illuminated by the soft lighting, created an ethereal atmosphere. It was like stepping into another world, a silent, ancient realm hidden beneath the surface.

To walk through these ancient pilgrimage routes is to walk through centuries of history, spirituality, and natural beauty.

Liam was particularly intrigued by the cave's history as a former lime quarry. From the Taisho era to around 1945, the cave was mined for its limestone, before being opened to the public in 1980. It's fascinating to think about the different lives this cave has had – from a natural wonder to an industrial site and back again. Aoife, ever the historian, pointed out the subtle marks left by the miners, a reminder of the human impact on even the most secluded places. I must admit, I felt a bit like a young Indiana Jones exploring the cave, albeit without the booby traps and rolling boulders.

Leaving the cool embrace of the cave, we made our way to Kakinoate for lunch. Located near the entrance of the Hayatama Taisha Grand Shrine, this charming restaurant is known for its persimmon leaf-wrapped sushi. We tried both the salmon and mackerel versions, along with a serving of their handmade soba noodles. The sushi was a delightful combination of flavors, the subtle sweetness of the persimmon leaf complementing the fish perfectly. It was the perfect meal to replenish our energy after our subterranean adventure.

With our bellies full and our spirits high, we continued our journey to Tsugizakura-Oji. This ancient shrine, one of the 99 Oji shrines of Kumano, is known for its giant cedar trees. As we approached the shrine, the air grew cooler, the sunlight filtering through the dense canopy above. The cedar trees, some estimated to be around 800 years old, stood like silent guardians of this sacred place.


Experience tranquility and cultural heritage at Tsugizakura-Oji, a captivating Shinto shrine in Wakayama's lush landscapes.

Walking among these ancient trees was a truly awe-inspiring experience. Their massive trunks, gnarled and weathered by time, seemed to radiate a sense of peace and wisdom. Liam was fascinated by the Ipposugi Cedar Trees, whose branches all grow in the direction of Nachisan. It’s as if the trees themselves are drawn towards the sacred mountain, a testament to the spiritual power of this region. Aoife, meanwhile, found solace in the quiet serenity of the shrine, taking a moment to reflect on the journey so far.

As we explored the shrine, I couldn't help but think about the countless pilgrims who have passed through this place over the centuries. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a path of spiritual significance, a journey of self-discovery. To walk in the footsteps of those who came before us is a humbling experience, a reminder of the enduring power of faith and perseverance.

Our final stop for the day was dinner at Watarase Onsen Cafe. This onsen town offered a relaxing end to a day filled with exploration. The cafe provided a comforting meal, and I enjoyed the chance to soak my weary feet in the onsen's warm waters. It was the perfect way to unwind and reflect on the day's adventures.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.

As the sun set over the Kii Mountains, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the experiences of the day. From the depths of the Totsui Limestone Cave to the heights of Tsugizakura-Oji, we had journeyed through both the physical and spiritual landscapes of Kumano Kodo. And as we prepare for tomorrow's hike to Kumano Kodo Park and the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead, I know that the memories of today will stay with us long after we leave this sacred place.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Kumano Kodo Park and the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead. We’ll start with breakfast at Sansaro Cafe, followed by lunch at Hinoki Steak House, and dinner at Sukiya R42 Kumano. I am also hoping we can get a chance to visit KUMANOYASAI CAFE. Tonight, I'm particularly looking forward to a good night's sleep, knowing that tomorrow will bring new adventures and new discoveries along the Kumano Kodo.