Exploring the Ancient Marvels of Lalibela with Family

Mountains, Monasteries, and Memories

Today was a day of reaching new heights, both physically and spiritually, here in Lalibela. Francisca, Nilton and I embarked on a journey to explore monasteries perched high in the mountains and delve deeper into the rich history and culture of this incredible place. It's days like these that remind me why I love to travel and share these experiences with my family.

We started our day with a hearty breakfast at Segenet cafe and restaurant. The aroma of freshly brewed Ethiopian coffee filled the air, mingling with the sweet scent of *injera* and spicy *wot*. It was the perfect way to fuel up for our day of exploration. Nilton, as always, was excited to try everything, though he did make a face when he tasted the spicier dishes! It reminded me of our little cafe in Lisbon, but with a uniquely Ethiopian twist. I made a mental note to try and recreate some of these flavors back home; Francisca would love it.

Our first destination was the Asheton St. Maryam Monastery. I had read that it was started by King Lalibela and finished by King Neakutoleab, and I was curious to see the blend of styles [something that I also see in Lisbon when walking through the old Alfama district]. The monastery sits high on Mount Abuna Yoseph, and the views, even from the base of the mountain, were already stunning. We decided to take the challenging hike up, rather than drive part of the way. I wanted the full experience, and I knew the views would be worth it.


Explore the breathtaking Asheton St. Maryam Monastery in Lalibela, Ethiopia, a spiritual haven rich in history and stunning rock-hewn architecture.
The hike was definitely a workout! Nilton, full of youthful energy, scampered ahead, while Francisca and I took a more leisurely pace, stopping frequently to catch our breath and admire the scenery. The trail wound its way through small rural villages, giving us a glimpse into the daily lives of the local people. Everyone we met greeted us with warm smiles and curious glances. It reminded me of my childhood in Cabo Verde, where community is everything. I even pulled out my guitar and played a few *mornas* for some of the villagers. Music truly is a universal language.

The journey to a sacred place is as important as arriving there; it prepares the soul.

As we climbed higher, the views became increasingly breathtaking. We could see the town of Lalibela spread out below us, with its iconic rock-hewn churches looking like tiny jewels nestled in the landscape. The air was crisp and clean, and the silence was broken only by the sound of our footsteps and the occasional birdsong. I couldn't help but feel a sense of peace and tranquility wash over me.

Finally, after a few hours of hiking, we reached the Asheton St. Maryam Monastery. Carved into the rocky face of the mountain, it seemed to blend seamlessly with its surroundings. I was awestruck by the skill and dedication it must have taken to create such a place. Inside, we were greeted by a friendly priest who showed us around. He shared stories of the monastery's history and showed us ancient crosses and a beautifully illustrated Bible. It was fascinating to learn about the traditions and beliefs of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. I felt a deep connection to the history of this place, a sentiment I often feel when guiding tours through Lisbon's historical districts.

After spending some time at the monastery, we began our descent. The hike down was much easier, and we made good time. By the time we reached the bottom, we were all exhausted but exhilarated. We had conquered the mountain and experienced something truly special.

Our next stop was Neakutoleab. This monastery is built inside a natural cavern, a short drive from Lalibela. According to what I read, King Lalibela's successor, Na'akuto La'ab, is credited with its construction. The monastery felt ancient and mystical, with water dripping from the cave's roof into stone receptacles, believed to be holy water. Inside, we saw crowns, gold-painted drums, crosses, and an old, illuminated Bible, all believed to have belonged to Na'akuto La'ab. The red-brick building inside, built by Empress Zewditu, added another layer to the monastery's rich history.


Discover the sacred beauty of Neakutoleab in Lalibela, a UNESCO World Heritage site showcasing stunning rock-hewn architecture and rich Ethiopian heritage.
The atmosphere within the cavern was serene, almost ethereal. Nilton was fascinated by the dripping water and the ancient artifacts. I explained to him the story of Na'akuto La'ab and the history of the Zagwe dynasty. It's important to me that Nilton understands his heritage and the stories of the people who came before him. It's a lesson I try to impart to those who join my walking tours in Lisbon as well.

As the sun began to set, we made our way back to Lalibela. We were all hungry, and we decided to try Netsanet traditional food hall for lunch. The food hall was bustling with activity, filled with the sounds of chatter and laughter. We ordered a variety of dishes, including *injera* with different *wots* and spicy lentils. The food was delicious and flavorful, and it was a great way to experience the local cuisine. Francisca was particularly impressed with the vegetarian options, and Nilton enjoyed trying all the different sauces.


Discover authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Netsanet Traditional Food Hall in Lalibela – where every dish tells a story.
For dinner, we chose Selina restaurant, drawn in by its inviting atmosphere and promise of traditional Ethiopian dishes. The restaurant did not disappoint. We savored the rich flavors of *doro wat* (spicy chicken stew) and other local specialties, all made with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. The staff were incredibly welcoming, making us feel right at home. It was the perfect end to a day filled with exploration and cultural immersion.


Experience authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Selina Restaurant in Lalibela - a culinary haven for every traveler seeking local flavors.
Before heading back to our lodging, we decided to stop by the Blue Nile Hotel for a drink. The bar was lively, and we enjoyed chatting with other travelers and locals. I even played a few songs on my guitar, much to the delight of the crowd. It felt good to share a bit of my Cabo Verdean culture with the people of Lalibela.


Experience the authentic flavors of Ethiopian cuisine at Blue Nile Hotel in Lalibela, where every meal tells a story.
As I sit here now, writing this blog post, I can't help but feel grateful for the experiences we had today. We hiked to a mountaintop monastery, explored a cave filled with ancient artifacts, savored the flavors of Ethiopian cuisine, and connected with the local people. It was a day that I will never forget. Tomorrow, we plan to visit Bete Medhane Alem and the Tomb of Adam, continuing our exploration of Lalibela's incredible rock-hewn churches. I can't wait to see what adventures await us.

It is amazing to see that, as mentioned in some articles I read, there is a free cataract surgery campaign going on in Lalibela this month, which is a wonderful contribution to the community.

I am also keeping in mind the need to support sustainable development and responsible tourism in Lalibela, as I read in some articles. It is important to preserve this cultural heritage for future generations.

Until tomorrow,

Domingos