Exploring the Ancient Marvels of Lalibela with Family

Echoes of the Past

Today was a day of venturing beyond the immediate wonders of Lalibela, a journey both in distance and in time. We sought to understand the deeper roots of this sacred land, exploring a church that predates the famous rock-hewn marvels and delving into the historical artifacts that narrate Lalibela's captivating story. It was a day to connect with the ancient soul of Ethiopia, a land where history whispers from every stone and artifact.

Our day began, as many do here, with a hearty breakfast at Bet Fikre restaurant. Fuelled up with local delicacies, we set off early to make the most of the day. The plan was ambitious: a visit to Yemrehana Krestos Church, a significant drive outside Lalibela, followed by an afternoon immersed in the Lalibela Museum. I made sure Nilton had his notebook so he could write down all the interesting facts he would learn throughout the day.

The drive to Yemrehana Krestos Church was an adventure in itself. The landscape transformed as we left Lalibela behind, the paved roads giving way to rugged tracks that wound through the Ethiopian highlands. The views were breathtaking, a tapestry of terraced fields and distant villages clinging to the hillsides. I couldn't help but think of my homeland, Cabo Verde, and the similar resilience etched into its landscapes. Francisca kept commenting on the vibrant colours of the local clothing, a stark contrast to the earthy tones of the land.

The journey is part of the destination.

Finally, after about an hour and a half, we arrived at Yemrehana Krestos Church. The church is nestled in a large, northeast-facing cavern on the western side of Mount Abuna Yosef. The church, built in the architectural style of the ancient Kingdom of Aksum, is credited to Yemrehana Krestos and is thought to have been constructed in the 11th or 12th century. Unlike the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, this one was built *into* a cave, a structure of stone and wood that seemed to grow organically from the rock itself. Before 2000, it was only reachable after an arduous day's journey on foot or mule, adding to its mystique. Even now, the location feels remote and untouched by time. The exterior, with its characteristic horizontal stripes, was striking against the cave's dark opening.


Explore the ancient Yemrehana Krestos Church in Degosay, Ethiopia, a stunning example of rock-hewn architecture and rich Orthodox traditions.

Stepping inside was like entering another world. The air was cool and heavy with the scent of incense and ancient stone. Light filtered in from the cave entrance, illuminating the intricate carvings and vibrant murals that adorned the walls. These murals, depicting biblical scenes and geometric designs, are considered some of the oldest surviving in Ethiopia. It was breathtaking to witness such artistry, preserved for centuries within this secluded sanctuary.

Our guide explained the history of the church, its connection to King Yemrehana Krestos, and its significance as a place of pilgrimage. He pointed out the Aksumite architectural influences, the intricate details of the wood carvings, and the symbolic meanings of the murals. What struck me most was the sense of continuity, the knowledge that this place had been a center of worship for over 800 years. Apparently, bones of some 11,000 pilgrims are sitting in the back of the cave. It's definitely a little on the spooky side.

Behind the church, in the depths of the cave, lies a collection of human remains – the bones of pilgrims who came to this sacred place to die. It was a sobering reminder of the power of faith and the human desire for spiritual connection. Nilton was a little spooked, but also fascinated, asking endless questions about the people whose bones lay there. I tried to explain to him the concept of pilgrimage, the idea of undertaking a journey for spiritual reasons, a concept perhaps difficult for a ten-year-old to fully grasp, but I could see the seeds of understanding being planted in his mind.

Leaving Yemrehana Krestos, we carried with us a sense of awe and reverence. The drive back to Lalibela was filled with quiet reflection, each of us processing the experience in our own way. We stopped briefly to buy some fresh beans from a local shepherd, a small interaction that felt deeply connected to the land and its people.

Back in Lalibela, we had lunch at Friends Zone Restaurant. After the long drive and the morning's explorations, we were all ravenous. The food was simple but satisfying, a welcome break before our afternoon activity.

Our next stop was the Lalibela Museum. Housed in a modern building, the museum offers a comprehensive overview of Lalibela's history, culture, and religious heritage. The exhibits ranged from ancient manuscripts and religious artifacts to traditional clothing and archaeological finds. It was fascinating to see the objects up close, to trace the evolution of Lalibela from its early beginnings to its present-day significance.


Discover the heart of Ethiopia's culture and history at Lalibela Museum, home to ancient artifacts and narratives that enrich your travel experience.

The museum's detailed information panels outlining Lalibela's history and archaeology were particularly impressive. I learned more about King Lalibela himself, his vision for creating a New Jerusalem in Ethiopia, and the incredible engineering feats that made the rock-hewn churches possible. There was also a temporary photographic exhibition by Vassilis Artikos, showcasing the pilgrims who flock to Lalibela for the great Christian festivals. The photos captured the extraordinary beauty of the site, and the devotion of the pilgrims.

Francisca was particularly interested in the displays of traditional clothing and jewelry, admiring the intricate embroidery and the vibrant colors. Nilton, predictably, was drawn to the displays of ancient weapons and tools, imagining the lives of the people who had used them centuries ago. I was captivated by the ancient manuscripts, their delicate script hinting at the knowledge and wisdom preserved within their pages.

As the day drew to a close, we found ourselves at Alem cooking class bar and restaurant for dinner, where the owner, Alem, sometimes conducts cooking classes. After such an immersive day, we were ready for a relaxed evening. The kids were excited to try some new dishes and Francisca and I were keen to sample the local Tej, honey wine. It was a fitting end to a day that had taken us on a journey through time and culture, connecting us to the ancient soul of Lalibela.


Experience authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Alem Cooking Class Bar and Restaurant in Lalibela – where cooking meets culture.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Asheton St. Maryam Monastery and Neakutoleab, continuing our exploration of the region's rich religious heritage. I'm also hoping to find some time to relax at the Blue Nile Hotel bar in the evening. Until then, I'll leave you with this thought:

Travel is more than seeing the sights; it is about experiencing the stories they hold and connecting with the people who keep them alive.

I'm excited to see what tomorrow brings, and to share it all with you here. Until then, salaam from Lalibela!